Sorry for the shitty post, im in quite a hurry, what do you think would be better, power slot rotors or brembo rotors, all oem size. I will be changin only the front discs.

Edit: this will be combined with AXXIS Brake pads and Goodrige G stop lines

 

Slotted rotors are a waste of money, get the brembo blanks.

 

I just bled my brakes and installed my axxis ultimate brake pads...the change in pedal stiffness wasnt as much as I had hoped for...but when you step on the brakes the braking power is 50x better.

Oh, back on topic...get blanks. Dont waste money on rotors.

 

is the idea of bigger is not better true when it comes to brakes on hondas? do you think just getting some brembo blanks, kick *** pads, ss lines, and fluid would be enough to stop a 200 hp car (rear discs also)? or should i go bigger?

some gt2 pccb brakes would kick *** i got a boner when i saw those brakes on that car. $25000 for brakes

 

Bigger is better to a point. A 200hp still only weighs a touch over 2000lbs. You stop weight, not power.

And yes, blanks, fluid, and pads will stop your car perfectly.

 

Thanx for the replies...

 

one more note check ebay the rotors are usally 50 bones for slotted and cross drilled sets and less for the slotted and im sure if you ask one of the ebay business to put up a set of blanks you could get those for cheaper too.

 

eBay cross-drilled and slotted rotors are worse than blanks. They are poorly made and have a tendency to crack prematurely. Please do not recommend them to people ever again.

 

As everyone has said, use blank rotors. I actually wouldn't even pay extra for the Brembo name - OEM Honda or even AutoZone work the same way. Rotors are just a heat sink and a wear item; pissing away extra money on fancy rotors is a waste because their purpose is to dissipate heat and provide a solid, durable surface for the pads to contact.

Drilled and/or slotted rotors just cost extra and form stress cracks sooner.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bled my brakes and installed my axxis ultimate brake pads...the change in pedal stiffness wasnt as much as I had hoped for...but when you step on the brakes the braking power is 50x better.

Oh, back on topic...get blanks. Dont waste money on rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Many things could cause a mushy pedal, including boiled and/or comtaminated fluid, worn pads, and a small master cylinder.

Try flushing the system with all new fluid, preferably of high quality. ATE SuperBlue/Type 200 is more than enough for street/autocross use, and pretty good for light to moderate HPDE use - and it is affordable. Not to mention the different colors make it easy to flush the system.

If that doesn't help your mushy pedal, upgrade to a larger master cylinder. This will make the pedal feel firmer and reduce pedal travel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMU1337 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eBay cross-drilled and slotted rotors are worse than blanks. They are poorly made and have a tendency to crack prematurely. Please do not recommend them to people ever again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im sorry maby I wasint clear enough.
They sell brembo slotte and cross drilled rotors for about 50 dollars a set. And the brembo slotted rotors I have seen go for less.
Maby if you ask one of the guys that run there businesses on ebay to put up a set of brembo blanks you could probably get those for cheaper too.

 

I did flush it with all new fluid. I used this crap:



I was talking about emerika...and he said I should upgrade to the 15/16ths master cylinder. Also my car is 10 years old and the lines are probably goin bad. Good info as usual targa...thanks

 

here are a fe auctions. None of them are mine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33564
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33564
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33564

A set of blanks 30 bucks with a "buy it now" feature. With shipping and handling I dunno if this would be a good deal of not.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33564

 

Bauley:
Valvoline Synpower is an awesome bang for the buck, I use it in the winter and throw in SuperBlue when it gets warm again.

func-tion:
I gotcha, I thought you were recommending no-name eBay junk

 

i agree with you on the ebay junk dont touch it. even if its free.

 

Actually...a lot of people take the Brembo name, and just cross drill and slot them themselves, then advertise them for cheap. Their machining process is not half as good as Brembo's cross drilled and slotted rotors. I've seen them crack from stress.

Just go to Autozone and get some blanks, don't worry about ordering them on the net. I believe mine were around $40 out the door...plus rotors probably carry a hefty shipping charge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p0rnstar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually...a lot of people take the Brembo name, and just cross drill and slot them themselves, then advertise them for cheap. Their machining process is not half as good as Brembo's cross drilled and slotted rotors. I've seen them crack from stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doesn't matter who modified the rotors, they're all going to crack sooner or later. Drilling through metal leaves sharp edges and open endgrains in the metal, which are very prone to developing cracks. Also, temperature differences around the drilled holes will stress the metal even further, accelerating the development of cracks.

Porsche has tried to aviod the cracking problems by actually casting their rotors with the holes in them instead of drilling (not to mention Porsche rotors are ceramic, not iron like our Honda rotors) but this still doesn't clear up the uneven cooling problems; Porsche rotors will still crack around the cast holes.

All rotors will eventually crack under high-heat, high-stress situations; cross drilled and slotted just tend to crack much sooner than blanks and will break apart more easily. They're potentially dangerous and they do nothing to help brake cooling or stopping power - so why buy them?

Autozone rotors

 

JMU...do you have a brake upgrade? I don't think you could walk adams hype arrrr with rear drums... and do you have an upgraded master cylinder?

 

i second autozone rotors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JMU...do you have a brake upgrade? I don't think you could walk adams hype arrrr with rear drums... and do you have an upgraded master cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Panther XPs and Super Blue, that is it (the reason I tell people that they really don't need big brakes and all that snazzy **** for street-use).

At this point the stock braking system is beginning to show weakness and I do need to look in to rear discs and integra fronts. With that setup I should be golden.

Who said ya need VTEC to roll Rs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMU1337 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Who said ya need VTEC to roll Rs? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahahah...hatchcraps wifout vtak ownz j00!

 

JMU, have you ever used Cobalt GT-Sports?

I was considering them as an alternative to Axxis Ultimates, as they have a slightly larger temperature range and slightly higher coefficient of friction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JMU, have you ever used Cobalt GT-Sports?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, can't say that I have. Having just looked at their temps (950) I don't think I'd ever try them either, save for AutoX or street.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As everyone has said, use blank rotors. I actually wouldn't even pay extra for the Brembo name - OEM Honda or even AutoZone work the same way. Rotors are just a heat sink and a wear item; pissing away extra money on fancy rotors is a waste because their purpose is to dissipate heat and provide a solid, durable surface for the pads to contact.

Drilled and/or slotted rotors just cost extra and form stress cracks sooner.


Many things could cause a mushy pedal, including boiled and/or comtaminated fluid, worn pads, and a small master cylinder.

Try flushing the system with all new fluid, preferably of high quality. ATE SuperBlue/Type 200 is more than enough for street/autocross use, and pretty good for light to moderate HPDE use - and it is affordable. Not to mention the different colors make it easy to flush the system.

If that doesn't help your mushy pedal, upgrade to a larger master cylinder. This will make the pedal feel firmer and reduce pedal travel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well put

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMU1337 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nope, can't say that I have. Having just looked at their temps (950) I don't think I'd ever try them either, save for AutoX or street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that's pretty much their purpose, just like the Ultimates. I was just wondering if they would hold up to the heat of some light HPDE use - I'm looking to start out in HPDE 1 or 2 this season, and if I can save my lazy *** the extra half hour of swapping pads at the track . . .

 

I ran Ultimates for my first event. They "held up" but I wouldn't recommend them to anyone else. Save yourself the hassle of acquiring a bunch of sets of pads and just get some good ones to begin with. I've since retired the Ultimates to street duty and swap in the Panther XPs at the track.