GSR brake conversion
i just bougth my friends gsr brakes and all from him.. he just upgraded to a itr brakes.....
i like doing all the work on my car myself..... and i would think most of you guys do also.... well... ive never done a brake swap before..... and im wonering if its that hard.......if you guys ever done this before... hopefuly you can help me... maybe know of a site i can get a walk through....... i have friends who may know ..but i would like to get some information myself from you guys who are experenced....
thanks,
tuan hoang
i like doing all the work on my car myself..... and i would think most of you guys do also.... well... ive never done a brake swap before..... and im wonering if its that hard.......if you guys ever done this before... hopefuly you can help me... maybe know of a site i can get a walk through....... i have friends who may know ..but i would like to get some information myself from you guys who are experenced....
thanks,
tuan hoang
i cant say i did mine, but i watched my friend do his, it took a looooong time.... ( but then again he was also doin 5 lug conversion, so they might have something to do with it) Good luck though, props to the kids that do there own work....
not sure if your car is an ek or eg.. but i'm about to do the same to mine. this is what i'm doing.
i have the whole rear assembly, trailing arms, ebrake cables, calipers/rotors, lines etc. I have the front knuckles and upper control arms, also of course with rotors/calipers/lines.
I just bought a 40/40 prop valve off a non abs car. and a teg rs master cylinder. i'm going to use that on a '99 gsr booster. from what i understand, the non abs mc has the lines on the correct side, the abs ones are on the opposite side, making it a pain to install because you would have to bend the lines. also, to use the teg booster, you need a teg mc.
the prop valve should even out the bias front and rear, as drums take a different amount of pressure to operate than disc brakes. it can be done without the prop valve, but i'd rather do it with.
i have the whole rear assembly, trailing arms, ebrake cables, calipers/rotors, lines etc. I have the front knuckles and upper control arms, also of course with rotors/calipers/lines.
I just bought a 40/40 prop valve off a non abs car. and a teg rs master cylinder. i'm going to use that on a '99 gsr booster. from what i understand, the non abs mc has the lines on the correct side, the abs ones are on the opposite side, making it a pain to install because you would have to bend the lines. also, to use the teg booster, you need a teg mc.
the prop valve should even out the bias front and rear, as drums take a different amount of pressure to operate than disc brakes. it can be done without the prop valve, but i'd rather do it with.
i did the swap, it was pretty easy.
i swapped the trailing arms and the susp along with the brakes. u just basically take off one and put the other one on, everything lines up. i have a coupe so i had a lil trouble with the ebrake cables.
had to swap the master and booster, took a while. had to bend the lines then put a different end on the line and re-flare it. (gsr master, booster)
never did the prop valve though.
i swapped the trailing arms and the susp along with the brakes. u just basically take off one and put the other one on, everything lines up. i have a coupe so i had a lil trouble with the ebrake cables.
had to swap the master and booster, took a while. had to bend the lines then put a different end on the line and re-flare it. (gsr master, booster)
never did the prop valve though.
did you notice anything weird without the prop valve? i'm not sure if the drums take more or less pressure to operate than discs.. if they take more, than you should have some extra rear bias. try turning and braking hard and see if the tail comes out way too easily?
and how much for those gsr wheels?? i sent you a pm, but noticed you have a pop up blocker..
and how much for those gsr wheels?? i sent you a pm, but noticed you have a pop up blocker..
na, the back doesnt lock before the fronts. but if ur not careful then they lock up with a "heavy foot" pretty easily. i just bought a wrecked gsr and have been swapping/upgrading many things for a couple months now. u just have to get used to them. i love my brakes though. no soft or mushy feeling at all.
wow ur loCAL too. 300 with tires. tires in good condition. come check em out.
wow ur loCAL too. 300 with tires. tires in good condition. come check em out.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 388
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From: Mile High West Side, Coloradoville, US of A
It's easy but it takes a long time. I know my brake lines in the back hooked right up to where the stock ones where. Some people say it leaks but mine hasn't yet and it's been a good 6 months.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carsaregood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought a teg rs master cylinder. i'm going to use that on a '99 gsr booster. from what i understand, the non abs mc has the lines on the correct side, the abs ones are on the opposite side, making it a pain to install because you would have to bend the lines. also, to use the teg booster, you need a teg mc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm well you probably gonna have problems using a RS or LS non ABS M/C. with a GSR booster. even though the ears of the M/C will line up and bolt to the gsr booster, the PUSHRODS of the rs and gsr master cylinder are of different lengths.
i went out and bought a M/C for a 94 integra LS NON ABS and tried to bolt it up to the gsr booster and it wouldnt go in all the way cuz the push rod was a different length. i could hacv forced it in if i wanted to but i dont thinkthat would have been good. so i traded out the gsr booster for a LS NON ABS booster and that worked fine.
heres my brakes setup:
99 type r 5 lug conversion front and rear
LS NON ABS BOOSTER AND M/C
40/40 prop valve from non abs integra.
brakes work perfect now and stops on a dime.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm well you probably gonna have problems using a RS or LS non ABS M/C. with a GSR booster. even though the ears of the M/C will line up and bolt to the gsr booster, the PUSHRODS of the rs and gsr master cylinder are of different lengths.
i went out and bought a M/C for a 94 integra LS NON ABS and tried to bolt it up to the gsr booster and it wouldnt go in all the way cuz the push rod was a different length. i could hacv forced it in if i wanted to but i dont thinkthat would have been good. so i traded out the gsr booster for a LS NON ABS booster and that worked fine.
heres my brakes setup:
99 type r 5 lug conversion front and rear
LS NON ABS BOOSTER AND M/C
40/40 prop valve from non abs integra.
brakes work perfect now and stops on a dime.
you are right.
the 99 gsr booster and rs master cylinder do NOT work!
the bolts for the gsr booster to mc are straight across, parallel to the ground. also, the bolt pattern is too narrow on the booster even if you wanted to mount it crooked... so no compatibility whatsoever. id on't know what year this mc is....
but! i look at my friend's 96 ls abs equipped integra... and found that it has the crooked bolt pattern. so i'm thinking that one will work with the rs mc...
anybody know for sure? or does anybody know the story on which models/years have straight bolts and which have crooked?? i guess i could just rebend the lines and use all gsr stuff...
the 99 gsr booster and rs master cylinder do NOT work!
the bolts for the gsr booster to mc are straight across, parallel to the ground. also, the bolt pattern is too narrow on the booster even if you wanted to mount it crooked... so no compatibility whatsoever. id on't know what year this mc is....
but! i look at my friend's 96 ls abs equipped integra... and found that it has the crooked bolt pattern. so i'm thinking that one will work with the rs mc...
anybody know for sure? or does anybody know the story on which models/years have straight bolts and which have crooked?? i guess i could just rebend the lines and use all gsr stuff...
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