ok, me and Home Skillet here on ht were up until like 7 am trying to get this to work but we're not sure what to do. at least i'm not. He wired up the mpfi and everything and we got a code 6,10,and 15 at first. We worked on it a little more and he fixed something (don't know what it was b/c i don't know **** about wiring) and after about 3-4 hours he got rid of codes 6 and 10. Now i believe the only code we are throwing is code 15 which is like ignition output or something like that. basically the car will start and idle and then die after a minute or two. the engine ran perfectly when we pulled it from my crx and no timing was messed with or anything. I need help bad, i already missed a family gathering i was supposed to go to today and i'm supposed to go to Delaware in the next couple days and i need my car on the road again. This is Honda-tech so please gimme some tech idea's. TIA

 

We're getting fuel fine but no spark. It may be the dizzy. I checked my wiring over and over again and I followed the fourthgenhatch website mpfi how to. Any help would be great and will be rewarded free dinner at Hooters or any restaurant of choice.

 

You sure you have the plugs plugged in the right spot? Ignition would lead me to believe something with the distributor is not right.

 

check the coil in the dizzy....try that next....let me know what goes on after that....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dgonzals &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the coil in the dizzy....</TD></TR></TABLE>
that was actually my first step. thanks dgonzals .

 

When I got that code I left the coil un-plugged lol

 

any other idea's??? we need help bad.

 

i searched the archives and came up with the following of what it could be:

-Ignitor is bad
-the two white wires at dizzy are xed and cause a no start condition

these are the only things that i see in the archives that could be the problem. i'll prolly pick up a cap and rotor (new) and an ignitor from a junkyard tomorrow and see if that works. if not hopefully its just the two wires. any other ideas?

 

What are the wire colors for these plugs? I just want to double check if I have the right ones hooked up.

 

No ignition does not mean that the dizzy is bad,

the ignitor is an ignition amplifier, basically what it does is it amplifies an ignition signal from the ecu to pass by the coil. IT NEEDS A SIGNAL FROM THE ECU TO ALLOW CURRENT TO FLOW AND CHARGE THE COIL FOR THE PLUGS TO FIRE.

Look in the shop manual for the circuit diagram for the ignition system, find out what wires connect the ignitor to the ECU (these will be the trigger wires for the ignitor) start by diagnosing these.

 

bump for home skillet's question. we need help

 

Look in the shop manual, it will ident the color of the wires for differenct connectors, you can then ident the connector by the color of the wire that goes to it

 

Here's my wiring, I've checked it many many times. If there is anything wrong with it, let me know.

A3+A7


B10+B12


C1+C2


Distributor connections

 

What engine harness did you use? when i put my a6 into my hf i tryed using the si harness and it did teh same code 15 bullshit, threw the hf harness on it and it fired right up. If its not the harness then id have to say its the ignitor in the dizzy your wiring, a ground at some point.

 

I did try to use the Si harness and then I just gave up because it was way too much work, then I used the DX harness. I measured the igniter in the dizzy and it read 8 ohms from point A to the secondary winding. From A to B it read 10k which is normal.

 

okay you said that the car starts fine and then shuts off or dies out right?? have your friend check the valve lash specs. i think theyre too tight. use a feeler gauge and loosen them up, or check if they are already in spec. A 0.001 error in the spec could alter performance alot.

 

NO, it doesn't start at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Home Skillet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO, it doesn't start at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly. plus the post two posts above doesn't really pertain in this situation. It started before when it was in the crx, like 6 hours before. anyways,

edwin, if you didn't get my message drew is gonna go get a fresh dx harness from his buddy at the junkyard and he wants you to do it step by step from the instructions. he seems to think that since you have done alot more b series wiring than dpfi-mpfi that you have some kind of b series wiring in it. anyways, if anybody see's anything wrong with his wiring let us know.

 

just as an update we got it running last week and it runs damn good!

 

What was it that was wrong? When I did my friends I had the two white wires crossed, undid them and it ran fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bgladfelter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was it that was wrong? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried to be stubborn and attempted to use an Si harness instead of the DX. Not as an excuse but I was working with serious sleep deprivation and wasn't thinking straight. All I needed was some rest. It was a very easy job to do if done right the first time.

 

yup...sleep always helps.....good to hear everything is all good now.....