Ericks Racing throttle body idle adjustment screw doesn't do anything?
Hi guys:
Happy holidays to all!! I just got an Ericks Racing 70-68mm throttle body and when i adjust (in both directions) the allen bolt on the side of the throttle body (close by the TPS sensor) there is no change whatsoever in idle speed? In order for the vehicle to idle, i needed to remove a plastic cover from the back of the intake manifold to allow airflow. When i cover this air port on the intake manifold, idle will go down to around 550 rpm's.
I thought the allen bolt is there to allow modification of air going into the throttle body? Am i doing something wrong here? By the way, the engine is an H22a with a Euro R intake manifold. I had the manifold port matched to 68mm and the gasket was custom made to work with the throttle body.
Anyone?
Happy holidays to all!! I just got an Ericks Racing 70-68mm throttle body and when i adjust (in both directions) the allen bolt on the side of the throttle body (close by the TPS sensor) there is no change whatsoever in idle speed? In order for the vehicle to idle, i needed to remove a plastic cover from the back of the intake manifold to allow airflow. When i cover this air port on the intake manifold, idle will go down to around 550 rpm's.
I thought the allen bolt is there to allow modification of air going into the throttle body? Am i doing something wrong here? By the way, the engine is an H22a with a Euro R intake manifold. I had the manifold port matched to 68mm and the gasket was custom made to work with the throttle body.
Anyone?
Make sure that the port that supplies the EACV with air is open. If you use the wrong TB gasket, it will cover the port, and the EACV will be useless. The engine won't idle and the adjustment screw can not provide enough air to compensate.
Hmmm. sounds like a good thing to check. I will take the t/b off today and verify what you have indicated.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hi guys:
Engine idles well, but with some oscillation. Engine is fully built, so i guess i cannot expect a factory like functioning idle speed. There are no leaks, the gasket on the Ericks Racing throttle body was remade and fitment was perfect. The adjustment screw on the Ericks T/B does nothing at all. With hondalogger running, i monitor changes in the idle speed with adjustment to the screw and nothing at all. I had the IAC valve replaced with another known working unit, cleaned it and had it installed. With the IAC disconnected, idle speed is around 530 rpm's and fluctuates to around 580 rpms or so back and forth graudally. I followed the idle adjustment procedure per my helms manual and with some adjustments to my hondata rom file, idle speed is around 850 with light oscillation. It is much, much better than before, but i still question why the adjustment screw on the throttle body does nothing at all. I figure if the idle adjustment on the throttle body can be made operational, i could fine tune my idle even better.
Any thoughts?
Engine idles well, but with some oscillation. Engine is fully built, so i guess i cannot expect a factory like functioning idle speed. There are no leaks, the gasket on the Ericks Racing throttle body was remade and fitment was perfect. The adjustment screw on the Ericks T/B does nothing at all. With hondalogger running, i monitor changes in the idle speed with adjustment to the screw and nothing at all. I had the IAC valve replaced with another known working unit, cleaned it and had it installed. With the IAC disconnected, idle speed is around 530 rpm's and fluctuates to around 580 rpms or so back and forth graudally. I followed the idle adjustment procedure per my helms manual and with some adjustments to my hondata rom file, idle speed is around 850 with light oscillation. It is much, much better than before, but i still question why the adjustment screw on the throttle body does nothing at all. I figure if the idle adjustment on the throttle body can be made operational, i could fine tune my idle even better.
Any thoughts?
One thing I have found helpful when running aftermarket throttle bodies is adjustment of the throttle stop screw. I adjust the throttle stop screw to allow more air in at idle, then use Hondalogger to monitor TPS voltage while adjusting the TPS to 0.49 volts at idle. Both my Erick's racing throttle body and my RPM throttle body had idle adjustment screws that work. I had to make homemade gaskets because neither throttle body came with a gasket. It sounds like you have your idle situation pretty well in hand. You could try pulling the idle adjustment screw out and use compressed air to clear the passage, perhaps it's plugged?
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Hi Todd:
Yes, basically all is functioning fine, with exception of that idle adjustment screw on the t/b. I am trying to get rid of a minute oscillation at idle speed and the proper functioning of that screw would help greatly i believe. I don't like messing with that throttle stop screw, but will remove the t/b, remove the idle adjustment screw and clean that up just in case. Right now i have tps voltage set at dead 0.45v at idle. I have worked a bit with the low cam fuel/timing in the idle area along with the IAC duty cycle to get it more or less as desired.
Thanks again.
Yes, basically all is functioning fine, with exception of that idle adjustment screw on the t/b. I am trying to get rid of a minute oscillation at idle speed and the proper functioning of that screw would help greatly i believe. I don't like messing with that throttle stop screw, but will remove the t/b, remove the idle adjustment screw and clean that up just in case. Right now i have tps voltage set at dead 0.45v at idle. I have worked a bit with the low cam fuel/timing in the idle area along with the IAC duty cycle to get it more or less as desired.
Thanks again.
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