I have a JDM B20 and I'm going B20 VTEC. I was wondering how the drivability and reliability is on this. My setup is a B20 With a 2nd gen B16 head. The bottom end and head are bone stock. The head is modified for VTEC with the dowel pins moved and oil drain being plugged. I'm using the Golden Eagle LS/VTEC kit kit and the endyn breather kit. I also have a chipped P28 with a 8000 redline. I have built many motors before so I have a good amount of experience. Also what head studs would you use with the B16 head on the B20? The car is a 94 Civic DX and is my daily driver in the summer, and occasionally in the winter. Help is greatly appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a JDM B20 and I'm going B20 VTEC. I was wondering how the drivability and reliability is on this. My setup is a B20 With a 2nd gen B16 head. The bottom end and head are bone stock. The head is modified for VTEC with the dowel pins moved and oil drain being plugged. I'm using the Golden Eagle LS/VTEC kit kit and the endyn breather kit. I also have a chipped P28 with a 8000 redline. I have built many motors before so I have a good amount of experience. Also what head studs would you use with the B16 head on the B20? The car is a 94 Civic DX and is my daily driver in the summer, and occasionally in the winter. Help is greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well it all depends who you ask....i focked my crvtec up in a month because i was reving it way past the redline to like 7500-8000rpms with a b16a3 head.....all i gotta say is with that stock bottom end becareful reving it so high...the torque is out of this world though...i used arp head studs

 

I'm currently building the same set up. With Cometic Head Gasket & KMS Block Guard; With stock everything else. Everybody on here seems too think this Block/Head setup will not last long as a everyday driver. (WHY)??? As, long as you keep the revs low I think it should be fine.....(At least I hope?)
Is there anyone on here that can verify this Question?? <U>That has had a stock set up like this together for awhile.</U>
Thanks.

 

yeah i wanna know....

 

if it's built right, yes i can be reliable, make sure you arp rod bolts/ head studs, and most important, balance your bottom block

 

No oil squirters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvsEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it's built right, yes i can be reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.
Mine's been running without problems for 2 years now.....9k redline too.

 

how do u have 9000 redline?? is it built?

 

So will a stock bottm end and a stock top end with ARP studs be relaible if I have the redline at 7800? I don't beat on the car except a few times here and there. I just don't want to have my new motor blow up.

 

I have about 1500 miles on my daily driver, stock bottom, built on top b20z/vtec ,no problems yet. Car still pulls and I always find myself mashing till about 8000k. Cant help it. Although I diffenetly have problems elsewere rather than the motor after installing it in my 92 da.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So will a stock bottm end and a stock top end with ARP studs be relaible if I have the redline at 7800? I don't beat on the car except a few times here and there. I just don't want to have my new motor blow up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes... if you dont wanna use the ARP's/ or AEBS's, make sure you use
BRAND NEW GSR HEAD BOLTS!!!

holla'

 

where the hell is a good place to find some info on b20's? I havent really done any research on it, just tossing up what im going to do to my ek.

 

http://b20vtec.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95excoupeMT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Well it all depends who you ask....i focked my crvtec up in a month because i was reving it way past the redline to like 7500-8000rpms with a b16a3 head.....all i gotta say is with that stock bottom end becareful reving it so high...the torque is out of this world though...i used arp head studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

What exactly happened to the block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So will a stock bottm end and a stock top end with ARP studs be relaible if I have the redline at 7800? I don't beat on the car except a few times here and there. I just don't want to have my new motor blow up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have my redline at 7k with fuel cutoff at 7250. The torque is more than enough to compensate for not revving as high.

 

I think what I'm going to do is put the stock B20 in a wait until I have all my parts together to do it. I'm going to use JE 11.5:1 pistons with Eagle rods and have the crank balanced to 10,000 although I'll never go that high. I also have oil squirters for it. I'll probably use the Endyn block girddle as well. This should hold up for a long time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scott - 93HB Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Exactly.
Mine's been running without problems for 2 years now.....9k redline too.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

iok... do you HAVE a 9k redline or do you run it to 9k? cuz im calling BS if you run it to 9k regularly unless you have a fully built bottom end (resleeved, rods, pistons) and a built head. even then it is still highly doubtful... but yes, to answer the question, it is reliable. ANYTHING WELL BUILT can be reliable.

 

my b20/vtec has about 10k miles on it, and its running fine

when i built mine, i replaced the water pump, oil pump, all gaskets, etc..

i used arp gsr head studs

as for reliability

 

those motors are junk

I've had a whole bunch of those "built" train wrecks come through and always the same busted *** POS condition

If you have a b16 and can afford to do the conversion than you can affor to sell it and buy a GSR motor or stroke your b16

the b20 was designed for minivans and cute utes not high rpms, balance what ? unless you change the weight of the flywheel crank pulley or pistons it should al be the same

unless you meant "blue print"

Me I have a b20 with a GSR trans and some bolt ons with some basic fuel tuning. I never hit the stock rev limiter and I've yet had to.

The final build will likely be in the 200 whp range and will maintain a near stock redline to boot and I suggest anyone else to do the same as that kind of power and tq with a good trans is all you can ever use in most FWD Hondas 99% of the time with matching tires and suspension anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Primo. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No oil squirters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ur right the b20's arent ment to be reving animals but u dont have to cus they put down good torque even with stock internals. U should be able to rev a lil higher if u swap out the stock rods for sum aftermarkets. I myself am doin type r rods with stock pistons n few other lil goodies