I am going to get an H22 motor, and build it up and drop it into my 88 hatch. I just wanted some feedback from some people who have done this swap. I wanna know what is the best way to go as in mounts to use, shift linkage, and which axles i have to use. I am hoping to make an all-out sleeper with this motor. I'm gonna buy a long block and start from there. Also, some pics would be great. Thanks for any info

 

I havent seen that many people on here that have done it, but from my research and info ive gathered, the swap is a PITA, theres some custom fabbing you are going to have to do and you'll have to get custom axles made. IMO it isnt worth dropping an h22 into an ef shell, youd be better off going with a b18c

 

as far as i know they only make a weld in kit... and the shift linkage is a bitch... the motor is bulky and heavy and ive heard of it totally screwing your suspension... h22's are for accords... i would stick with a b series

 

Well, thanks for the feedback, I'm just gonna do it anyway, to see for myself. And then i will give my own personal feedback to this forum

 

Well good luck and take lots of pics!

 

just out of curiosity, what are your plans/goals for the car?

 

I just plan on making the car a RELIABLE every day grinder. That's why i want the h22. I want to be able to run around high 12's to low 13's and still be reliable. I know this motor can do that fairly easily. I do plan on going all-out on the motor though, because I have a sohc motor just for smogging purposes


DAMN ***** HARD ON A BUDGET!

 

Stock ITR motor would meet/exceed all of your requirements. There is a reason no one is a big fan of the H22 in an EF shell, weight. Even in an EK it can be a bit much and cause the short wheelbase to come around easily (i've seen this hapen to two people just cruising on the freeway, slight curve, little bump, neither EK lasted more than six months). In an EF this scenario is multiplied with less weight in the shell and shorter wheelbase. By the time you get finished installing an H22 you will probably end up being at or above the cost of installing an R motor. If you want a drag only car, H22 is fine, but don't put it on the streets.

 

As far as the engine goes
Great engine. Ever see Best Motoring Video with that SPOON civic and JUN Prelude? They were commenting on the engine-how it was their favorite engine, but too bad they never made a good car to go into
Weight is your enemy, but for daily driving should be OK...I think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevtecnician &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, thanks for the feedback, I'm just gonna do it anyway, to see for myself. And then i will give my own personal feedback to this forum</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes take lots of pics , document it and let me know. I asked the same question a while back and was discouraged from even trying. But would love to see how it comes out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neutron91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as i know they only make a weld in kit... and the shift linkage is a bitch... the motor is bulky and heavy and ive heard of it totally screwing your suspension... h22's are for accords... i would stick with a b series</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who made the weld in kit, I never found one when I was looking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-RX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock ITR motor would meet/exceed all of your requirements. There is a reason no one is a big fan of the H22 in an EF shell, weight. Even in an EK it can be a bit much and cause the short wheelbase to come around easily (i've seen this hapen to two people just cruising on the freeway, slight curve, little bump, neither EK lasted more than six months). In an EF this scenario is multiplied with less weight in the shell and shorter wheelbase. By the time you get finished installing an H22 you will probably end up being at or above the cost of installing an R motor. If you want a drag only car, H22 is fine, but don't put it on the streets. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with you 100%... as far as the weld in kit goes i dont know who makes it thats just what ive heard

 

i know a coupple people who have done it it is pretty stright foward . but u r going to have to use a 92 95 style raditor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevtecnician &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to get an H22 motor, and build it up and drop it into my 88 hatch. I just wanted some feedback from some people who have done this swap. I wanna know what is the best way to go as in mounts to use, shift linkage, and which axles i have to use. I am hoping to make an all-out sleeper with this motor. I'm gonna buy a long block and start from there. Also, some pics would be great. Thanks for any info</TD></TR></TABLE>

*I* have done this swap.. it IS a PITA but well worth it. alot of people will tell you not to do it because it is not a - flip through a catalog, buy the **** you need type of swap that pretty boys like. You'll have to use your brains, hopefully you have tools and know how to weld. It's 20 more hp than a b18c and you can't even compare the torque. makes a GREAT sleeper.

anyway.

I think the best way to go with mounts is to make your own.

check out this link.. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=670593

you will have to go with custom axles, don't listen to people who tell you otherwise because they did not put the engine it strait.


This weekend sircrxracer and i are going to play with his new digi cam, we'll take some pics and hopefully it can answer some questions for ya. keep watching this thread and the hybrid one.

ttyl.


Modified by 2point2 at 7:15 AM 12/21/2003

 

if you really want to try .. and your not just stunnin then ill help you out. i have never done a h22 but i have done loads swaps. i would love to try it. sac town .. lemme know whats up.

 

Ok motors in finally. The motor was officially in 3 months ago. Y1 b16 cable tranny, toda 7lb flywheel, act 6 puck and pressure plate. B16 swap mounts, except for driver side. B16a sir linkage, integra axles. Dinan chipped h22a obd1 ecu.
Skunk2 manifold yet to go on.(hope it fits)
I had itb's for it but sold em.
The motor sits where a bseries would, only its shifted over an inch towards the driver side due to tha h2b adapter plate.
I had to vut my framerail. It has a custom made traction bar from 1320 custom fab( needs to be redone, rubs on my crank pulley) sorry can't post pics. I'm doin all this from my phone. The car doesn't start yet. Won't turn over.
I have a rywire obd0 to obd1 distributor conversion harness but I spliced the wires up before cuz I tried to repin it and use the prelude connectors. Haven't tried to crank it yet. By the way my tranny has a welded diff in it.
I'm running 4 lug type-r suspension on it. Currently trying to find pads n rotors. I found some expensive ones but I'm still looking.
Any questions fire away

 

The motor sits hella high. I need a custom 3" at least hood. I prefer it to sit high so that the oil pan isn't so close to the ground as, say, the hasport kit. I also need a custom header made for it. The motor sits tilted to the front so I need a downpipe that isn't so bent. I straighter one. Maybe 1320 customfab.