cluster help

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Old Dec 9, 2003 | 06:05 PM
  #1  
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From: lawrenceville, ga, 30043
Default cluster help

hey guys i need ya'll help...

about a month ago i was driving and i put my turn signal on and the signlas went out, the rpms, the temp/gas gauges stop working...
i checked the fuses and the slot for the turnsignals was blown, so i replaced it and it kept blowing them.. i couldnt find the problem then i disconected all the plugs that go into my cluster and turn signals and i put a fuse in again and it blew it, so untill today i decided to check all my grounds again and i find that a bolt from my starter was laying right on the ground that hooks up near the starter.. so i put that bolt back in and i install a fuse. it was a 15watt and it didnt blow, i put a 10 (whats supposed to be used) and it blew, then i put the 15 watt again and it didnt blow.. but my cluster still dont work at all, my turn signal or any gauges. but my cluster lights work and the one square that lights up when u have high beams on are the only things that work..

if u have any advise i greatly appreciate it..

thank you....
juan basulto
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Old Dec 9, 2003 | 06:13 PM
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Have you recently installed any kind of audio equipment?? I had this problem after I installed my radio in my Prelude.
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Old Dec 9, 2003 | 06:53 PM
  #3  
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no man i installed my cd player a while ago, i did have a system but that has been removed. so what happened to yours, the samething? what u do to fix it?

thanks
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 11:28 AM
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My illumination wire from the radio came loose somehow and was touching metal in turn blowing the fuses for my dash lights. I would check for any loose wires.
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 08:04 PM
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Default Re: cluster help (juanb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys i need ya'll help...

about a month ago i was driving and i put my turn signal on and the signlas went out, the rpms, the temp/gas gauges stop working...
i checked the fuses and the slot for the turnsignals was blown, so i replaced it and it kept blowing them.. i couldnt find the problem then i disconected all the plugs that go into my cluster and turn signals and i put a fuse in again and it blew it, so untill today i decided to check all my grounds again and i find that a bolt from my starter was laying right on the ground that hooks up near the starter.. so i put that bolt back in and i install a fuse. it was a 15watt and it didnt blow, i put a 10 (whats supposed to be used) and it blew, then i put the 15 watt again and it didnt blow.. but my cluster still dont work at all, my turn signal or any gauges. but my cluster lights work and the one square that lights up when u have high beams on are the only things that work..

if u have any advise i greatly appreciate it..

thank you....
juan basulto</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like you need to start "unplugging ciruits" to find out which one is drawing too much power. I'd start with stuff that 'moves"... Such as headlight /turn signal switches etc.

PS: Besides radio work and such.. Has the car ever been in a bodyshop for paintwork? Could be something shorting out there as well.


Do you have a shop manual for the car?
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 08:28 PM
  #6  
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From: lawrenceville, ga, 30043
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hey man the first time i checked, i unplugged every circuit and when i installed the fuse it would blow them..
and my car was in an accident where i had to get the drivers side of it all repainted.. but how could that have cause this problem?

thanks
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 08:54 PM
  #7  
Alan Wil's Avatar
 
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From: Southeast, USA
Default Re: (juanb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey man the first time i checked, i unplugged every circuit and when i installed the fuse it would blow them..
and my car was in an accident where i had to get the drivers side of it all repainted.. but how could that have cause this problem?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Body shops screw up wiring allot of times.... Big time. The only people who screw up wirng more are stereo/alarm shops.

Hit on the drivers side???.... That gives you a place to start looking...

So the fuse blows with everything unplugged? Have you checked your wiring diagram to see what is fed by that fuse, even though it is unplugged???

It may be a case that something is shorting in the fuse box itself... Or maybe a wire is crossed over to another circuit.
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Old Dec 10, 2003 | 09:13 PM
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it did before, but i did find a bolt laying on my ground on top of my starter and i put it back on my starter and now it doesn't blow any fuse, well actually it blows a 10watt but not a 15 watt.. before it blew 10,15,20, 25 watts now it olny blows 10 watt fuses

thanks
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Old Dec 11, 2003 | 05:00 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: (juanb)

It may be a case that not having the ground caused something to back feed a circuit and it fried something like the multi-finsution relay that mounts to the back side of the fuse box???.. Pull it and see if your current draw goes away.

I'd do another visual inspection... Sometime things try to hide the first go around.(Maybe have a freind look it over.. an extra set of eyes, they may see something you overlooked)

I'd double check the wiring diagrams again also.

I'd also put a meter on the circuit to check for current draw... then start disconnnecting eveything... (And I mean everything) Also pull that multi-finction relay on the back side of the fuse box... That could be causing your problems.

I'd keep on it as it should'nt blow a 10amp fuse, especailly with nothing "running" (on) in the circuit.

Please do post what the fix is.
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Old Dec 11, 2003 | 10:55 AM
  #10  
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"I'd also put a meter on the circuit to check forcurrent draw... then start disconnnecting eveything... (And I mean everything) Also pull that multi-finction relay on the back side of the fuse box... That could be causing your problems."

hey thanks for ur help..
well i got so mad one day and just got a whole new fuse box thing from my friends crx thinking that it was the fuse box, and nope still kept blowing.. then i just switched the multi-function relay thats on the back of the fuse box and still didnt work.. but i should be checking this out with a couple of friends this sat and i will be sure to tell ya'll what i fiqured out

thanks
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Old Dec 12, 2003 | 07:21 AM
  #11  
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From: Southeast, USA
Default Re: (juanb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"I'd also put a meter on the circuit to check forcurrent draw... then start disconnnecting eveything... (And I mean everything) Also pull that multi-finction relay on the back side of the fuse box... That could be causing your problems."

hey thanks for ur help..
well i got so mad one day and just got a whole new fuse box thing from my friends crx thinking that it was the fuse box, and nope still kept blowing.. then i just switched the multi-function relay thats on the back of the fuse box and still didnt work.. but i should be checking this out with a couple of friends this sat and i will be sure to tell ya'll what i fiqured out

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have an idea for you to save you some money..

If you don't want to waste / blow and have to buy a fuse every time you test the circuit, next time your at the junkyard look at the fuse box of FORD cars... In some positions they use " automatic circuit breakers " instead of fuses. They are metal and are sliver or gray in color. Note the amperage should be printed on the side of the fuse.

Grab a couple of different sizes, then put one of each unit in a plastic container (I use prescription pill containers, small and easy to work with) , Label the AMP rating on the side, then drill holes in each end, attach wires and alligator clips, etc. That way you can test without having to buy a truckload of fuses. Just make sure to NOT use a 25-amp unit if you're testing a 10amp circuit! (I believe the small ones are 6 amp.)


PS: I think your idea of checking this out with a couple of friends is a good one. The more eyes you have looking for a problem the better. Especially a "fresh" set of eyes... they might see something you've already seen, but didn't see.

I'd also put ammeter on my buddy's car(s) to see how much current theirs is drawing. It may also be a good idea to write down what you have swapped so far with no effect and take a real close look at your wiring diagram(s) again. Keep in the back or your mind something may have back-fed something else, which is causing excessive current draw from the most unlikely place.
One last thing ... While working on electrical problems loosen the negative battery terminal, or better yet put one of those 25amp automatic circuit breakers I talked about above between the negative terminal and the battery cable while doing your “testing” I’d also keep a fire extinguisher handy… and make sure the car be “rolled’ out into the street away from your house IF it catches on fire. (In other words don’t have another car parked behind it)



Modified by Alan Wil at 5:38 PM 12/12/2003
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 10:06 AM
  #12  
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ok man... we looked at it and couldnt find ****!!!!!!! im so ******* pissed off i couldnt find ****!!!!! so what i did was the worst, i stuck a paperclip in the socket that keeps blowing the 10 watt fuses( turning signals), and the ******* paperclip lit on fire not where the problem is!!!! any more advise??????????????????????????????

thanks
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 10:31 AM
  #13  
Alan Wil's Avatar
 
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From: Southeast, USA
Default Re: (juanb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok man... we looked at it and couldnt find ****!!!!!!! im so ******* pissed off i couldnt find ****!!!!! so what i did was the worst, i stuck a paperclip in the socket that keeps blowing the 10 watt fuses( turning signals), and the ******* paperclip lit on fire not where the problem is!!!! any more advise??????????????????????????????

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go get some of those Ford circuit breakers I talked about before... and try some more. Your overlooking something.

PS: Put a paperclip in the fuse box and it lit on fire!!! LOL ….If you put a paperclip in the fuse box there’s NO telling what you have FRIED now. Keep whomever had that bright idea away from your car.
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 07:34 PM
  #14  
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hey well i plan on replacing all the wiring that goes to my cluster/steering wheel bullshit so hopefully that will work!! any one think this will work?

thanks
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 08:21 PM
  #15  
Alan Wil's Avatar
 
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From: Southeast, USA
Default Re: (juanb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by juanb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey well i plan on replacing all the wiring that goes to my cluster/steering wheel bullshit so hopefully that will work!! any one think this will work?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>


Overlooked a detail in one of your previous posts:

juanb POSTED: “hey man the first time i checked, i unplugged every circuit and when i installed the fuse it would blow them..”


If you have everything disconnected and it still blows fuses then something is amiss in the harness itself, or the fuse box , etc if it feeds thru there.

So to answer your above question about replacing all the wiring that goes to the cluster/steering wheel …. Probably not if that was one of the circuits you had unplugged before and the fuses still blew.

Whatever you do DON”T put another PAPERCLIP in the fuse box unless you’re trying to total the car, and/or catch it on fire!

PS: Have you gone to the junkyard (OR NAPA) to get some of those circuit breakers I talked about before? That would be the first thing you need to source before putting in another wiring harness /replacing a bunch of wiring only to find out later the “new” harness or switch, or whatever was fried by the same thing that fried the first one.
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