I bought my 97 EX sedan, 4 cylinder (116,000 miles) about 6 months ago and love it. I put in Mobil 1 and the filter as soon as I got it, but have seen a topic or 2 elsewhere that suggests putting synthetic oil in a car with this many miles is not good/unwise/etc. The car burns absolutely no oil since i've had it now (9000 miles). So, any ideas/comments suggestions on stay with the Mobil 1 or not? I've also heard something about not putting syn. oils in Hondas, though I can't imagine why it would be a bad thing. Comment all you want. Thanx.

 

if it's not burning oil then stay with mobil 1 if you like. if you get sick of spending that much money mix it with mobil dyno oil or one of the new high mileage oils by valvoline or mobil.

it's true with high mileage switching to syn can cause leaks, but it's also a sign that your motor is worn and not in the best condition. some people like to blame it on the oil, but it's not the oils fault it's such a good lubricant that it can slip through worn seals and break up oil sludge.

 

So, with no oil loss right now, just keep using Mobil 1? Cost is insignificant to me.

 

Yes.

 

1991 accord, 150,000 mobil one syn.. no problems... stick with mobil

 

Synthetic oil does NOT cause leaks (like many people say), it only amplifies them. If you don't have any leaks to begin with, regardless of mileage, synthetic oil will not leak. If you already have leaks, synthetic will leak a little more than dyno due to the smaller molecular structure of synthetic. Alot of people have the wrong idea about synthetic oil and high mileage engines, but that's just a generalization statement. It all depends on the particular engine at hand and what kind of shape it's in. I've even heard as far as someone saying "don't use syn. in high mileage engines, it will ruin the engine!" hahahah, that's bullshit. Only way that could possibly happen is if there is major sludge from dyno oil, and the detergents in the syn. loosen them up and clog oil passages, but that's highly unlikely.

I run nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic in my 329,000 mile motor and have been since 260k when I switched from dyno..... still doing just fine and doesn't burn or leak a drop!

 

Agreed that synthetic does not cause your old car to lead oil. Also, do not mix full synthetic with dino. That whole concept makes no sense.

The reason you go with synthetic in the first place is due to it's longevity (doesn't break down as quickly as dino) and higher resistance to coking. If you add dino to the synthetic, then the dino will break down as quickly as it always does, and contaminate the good synthetic you have in with it. So now you have half-crappy oil in your car and it needs to be changed anyway at the same dino interval. Think of it as milk...if you have some fresh milk and some sour milk, adding some fresh milk to the sour milk does not make the sour milk any better to drink, you've only ruined your fresh milk!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TomSlick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also, do not mix full synthetic with dino. That whole concept makes no sense.

The reason you go with synthetic in the first place is due to it's longevity (doesn't break down as quickly as dino) and higher resistance to coking. If you add dino to the synthetic, then the dino will break down as quickly as it always does, and contaminate the good synthetic you have in with it. So now you have half-crappy oil in your car and it needs to be changed anyway at the same dino interval. Think of it as milk...if you have some fresh milk and some sour milk, adding some fresh milk to the sour milk does not make the sour milk any better to drink, you've only ruined your fresh milk!</TD></TR></TABLE>

the only reason why i suggest it, is cause some people like those syn blends that are being sold. those are not 50/50 mixes which some people may think they are, instead they are more like 10-20% syn at most and 80-90% dino oil. mixing your own your atleast getting 50/50 and some people may like it. it may be a waste of money in your opinion, but unlike mixing good milk w/sour milk mixing the two oils will not hurt anything.

 

Well I'll agree that it won't hurt anything, so long as you don't try to squeak out too may miles between changes. I also wasn't trying to be critical of your comments--I think the whole blend this is nothing more than marketing hype. Sort of like calling everything "turbo" this or "super" that. Just imagine...Miracle Whip, now made with synthetic eggs and oil!

But I would treat any blended product as if it were dino. It's just my opinion that if you're going to spring for more $$$ to use synthetic (either blend or full), then go the whole nine yards and use full. It won't cost much more than the blends anyway.

 

Ok Im getting my oil today. I have some leak from the rear main seal. I have been using syntec and it seems to be getting worse in since then. So what would be the best high mileage brand? What weight should I go with I have been using Castrol Syntec 10W 30 any ideas??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TomSlick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I'll agree that it won't hurt anything, so long as you don't try to squeak out too may miles between changes. I also wasn't trying to be critical of your comments--I think the whole blend this is nothing more than marketing hype. Sort of like calling everything "turbo" this or "super" that. Just imagine...Miracle Whip, now made with synthetic eggs and oil!

But I would treat any blended product as if it were dino. It's just my opinion that if you're going to spring for more $$$ to use synthetic (either blend or full), then go the whole nine yards and use full. It won't cost much more than the blends anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i definetly agree.


as for castrol syntec, it's crap. mobil 1 or valvoline syn is what i reccomend for off the shelf full syn oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KGAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for castrol syntec, it's crap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. Castrol is definately crap.

 

Well what about high mileage types go with valvoline on that too. What brings you guys to this conclusion that castrol sucks? Im not arguing I just want to know. I know this dont matter but I think the Castrol is more expensive than the valvoline

 

I fail to see how a certain brand of oil sucks. How did everyone come to a conclusion that an oil sucks..Did everyone taste it,try to lube the GF with it and no go?
Shoot, oil with the coolest looking bottle and picture is the best for me. I do like quaker states bottle the best made out of clear plastic.. I think Mobil one brand sucks... becuase there is no picture.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thai-paramedic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fail to see how a certain brand of oil sucks. How did everyone come to a conclusion that an oil sucks..Did everyone taste it,try to lube the GF with it and no go?
Shoot, oil with the coolest looking bottle and picture is the best for me. I do like quaker states bottle the best made out of clear plastic.. I think Mobil one brand sucks... becuase there is no picture.</TD></TR></TABLE>

because you go to lab and get oil test, and when your professor in college with 8+ ase certified instructor also work with a some engineer in valvoline, who spend no less than 20 year donig nothing more than studying, testing, and building motor oil.


so what's the ph level in your oil right now?

 

Oil is certified to meet the standards of American pertroluem institute..So, that little seal of approval is all you need.That is why car manufactuers dont recoomend any brand over another becuase of that little seal.
Small specifics like Kgrams of iron or sulphur wil not matter. those details will NOT effect the engine. Since it changed 2 times a year.
Oil changes and oil are recreactional activities.Its the last thing on cars most people can DIY.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knowtomorrow3001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well what about high mileage types go with valvoline on that too. What brings you guys to this conclusion that castrol sucks? Im not arguing I just want to know. I know this dont matter but I think the Castrol is more expensive than the valvoline</TD></TR></TABLE>

mobil sued castrol over it's claims of being full syn oil since to mobil standards it is not. mobil lost due to the fact their is no strict chemical formula definition of full syn oil.

as for for valvoline max life, it is very good stuff. according to castrol standards it is almost full syn, just one notch below it's syntec.

i guess it's not so much that castrol syn is crap, it's just that your getting ripped off.

 

Yeah I bought the valvoline high mileage last night. So I hope it does better with my leak, its thicker I guess. Is it bad to just change oils like that? Go from syntec to like a thicker oil I doubt it but castrol is all my car has seen since I have had it.

 

One more note for the syn. oil.
do not use syn. oil in your new car, most manufacturer dont recommend using them because they lude so well that the rings in the cylinder wouldnt even properly break in, dont use full syn. oil until 20k plus miles.

and dont ever ever use those motor/engine flush stuff

 

API doesnt test the additive in different brands of oil as far as i know.
that 20% will make a different, if they wouldnt affect the motor, why all the motor oil company spend billion of dollar to come out with a "secret" formula that they wouldnt share with anyone?

 

Yeah my car has 185,000 miles on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thai-paramedic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Oil is certified to meet the standards of American pertroluem institute..So, that little seal of approval is all you need.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think we need some clarification here. Castrol is not going to ruin your motor. It's just not going to make it last as long or make as much power.

Castrol sucks b/k of 1) first hand experience and 2) experience vs. valvoline.

Oil is certified yes, but oil involves two different things: 1) the base oil and 2) it's additive package. All mineral-based petroleum distillates have more or less the same lubrication properties. The additive package is what dictates how a oil will react to heat and temperature changes over time. The additive package dictates how it will breakdown. Castrol breaks down faster and is more prone to volatile burnoff more so than valvoline. Run valvoline and your engine will be noticably smoother...

Anecdotally, I've known a guy whose been porting cylinder heads/manifolds for fun for the past 15 years. His garage is full of bread carts stacked with heads. On engines that used valvoline vs. other brands (didn't talk about mobil 1 though), the wear differences he said were drop-dead astounding. The heads that came out of cars using valvoline looked 60-80% less worn than with any other oil. I'll take that as a rule of thumb for the whole engine