Ok so I put the car on stands todat to have at it. All in all a very successful day.

Took out old manifold...swapped in DSM injectors...burned a chip and got my ECU in nicely...installed newly tapped oil pan...shaved the block a touch for clearance...put on the new inline pro and SC34...put on the tial...and hooked up the oil return

Im a little concerned about the oil return line. Not sure if i think its a little too long or if i might need some other fitting to make it fit nicer, however it seems to fit around the downpipe nicely with good clearence...just want to see if the experts can tell if everything is ok from these pics.







Thanks for the help in advance!

- Chris


Modified by xenocron at 12:19 AM 11/22/2003

 

The first 2 pics are very hard to make out. Could you retake them so that you could see more instead of being so close. Other then that everything else looks great.

 

I can't believe that you are doing this in a apartment parking lot? What if you stuff gets jacked or broken into? Plus isn't it getting cold outside?

 

Sorry i didnt type the right # for picture #2

 

the return looks like it slops down than back up again, but its hard to judge from thos pictures. looks questionable to me

 

As for doing in the parking lot...no one is gonna swipe **** while im out there, who knows about later down the road tho My apt complex is pretty secluded...mostly old ladies so im not too worried about anyone from inside jacking my ****.

As for the oil return...it slopes down from the turbo makes a right turn (if looking from the top) and continues slightly sloping down until it hit the cross member you see...then take a sharp 90 and goes straight (level) into the oil pan...never slopes back up but is in there pretty tight...im worried about that cross member shifting and rubbing or kinking that return...

any ideas for solutions? this is a Flamenco-T "kit" so i am asking him to take a look for ideas too

 

So all you guys with dohc turbo's run your oil feed through under the block instead of like the greddy sohc turbos go over the valve cover.

 

try to angled your male to male adapter towards the front driver side, this will help "guide" the oil path away from the crossmember

stan

 

Those pictures Rock, I can't belive that it's jacked up in the apt. parking lot either. LoL! Looking good though.

 

Man you should've at least truned your car around so its facing the woods!

I hope you have a really good alarm!

 

nice g2. Are you retaining ac/ps with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTeG4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So all you guys with dohc turbo's run your oil feed through under the block instead of like the greddy sohc turbos go over the valve cover.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

um, that's the return line

car's lookin good, might want to get some 1 piece headlights . But so long as the return line never has a dip in it where the line is lower then the return bung on the pan ur fine. even mine had a tiny dip and it ran perfectly.

 

install looks good. just one suggestion tho...........you might wanna take some engine degreaser to your motor afterwards.

 

Yeah I got bitched at for leaving the car up on jackstands all weekend. Some people seem to think that a car on jack stands might fall over on kids playing near the car and would be dangerous...doh!

The parking lot is pretty secure, so is the area but as many know, nothing is that secure but I am working with what I have.

Day 2 & 3 didn't prove very fruitful...that damn oil return isn't right...it might work temporarily but I'm worried about down the road. See its pushed right up against the cross member and im worried about bumps and over time it will either rub or snap so Im gonna wait to get the right parts. It seems like Stan is gonna hook me up to so I have to thank him for that!

After that, it's just cutting up the charge pipes from the turbo to the intercooler and getting the BOV welded in a good spot (waiting on the correct tubing from AccordinglyDone.com, Kteller)

Then tuning! Should be fun fun fun...

Couple more questions for any who know...

#1 - Because this is a Second Gen Teg...I have to drop the entire gas tank to install my Walbro pump...you guys think the stock pump will hold up to 8 psi w/ DSM 450's over the winter until I get a chance to drop the tank? I know most people get the new higher flow pump because at WOT sometime the stocker has a hard time keeping up...what are your guys opinions?

#2 - After I had refilled my engine I took off the oil return from the oil pan and oil started leaking out a little...keep in mind I hadnt run the engine at all. I had my bung welded in a a high point on the oil pan, there is no doubt about that. But after I start the engine, the oil level in the pan should drop a little because it will be spread out lubricating the engine while running making the oil return higher that the level of oil in the pan, correct?

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone I bought parts from, got advice from and who actually helped a little with the install. Probably wouldn't have been quite as possible without H-T!!!

- Chris


Modified by xenocron at 9:39 AM 11/24/2003

 

with 4-4.5 quarts in my engine with the bung welded about were yours is I have no problems with oil backing up. When you start the engine the oil level in the pan drops

 

Damn, degrease and pressure wash that engine bay.

 

I your manifold

 

One question:

Is the OUTLET on the turbo HIGHER than the INLET on the pan... and does the line stay below the outlet at all times?

If so, obviously, physics says that the line will not back up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Couple more questions for any who know...

#1 - Because this is a Second Gen Teg...I have to drop the entire gas tank to install my Walbro pump...you guys think the stock pump will hold up to 8 psi w/ DSM 450's over the winter until I get a chance to drop the tank? I know most people get the new higher flow pump because at WOT sometime the stocker has a hard time keeping up...what are your guys opinions? I think you should just install it. I is a pain in the a**, but it's not too bad. Then again, I did it on a lift . I think that if you don't push the car too hard over the winter it should be fine. However, the precision turbos have been shown to make some decent hp even at low boost levels. I say just change the pump and you'll be able to sleep at night

#2 - After I had refilled my engine I took off the oil return from the oil pan and oil started leaking out a little...keep in mind I hadnt run the engine at all. I had my bung welded in a a high point on the oil pan, there is no doubt about that. But after I start the engine, the oil level in the pan should drop a little because it will be spread out lubricating the engine while running making the oil return higher that the level of oil in the pan, correct? yes </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnyquest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One question:
Is the OUTLET on the turbo HIGHER than the INLET on the pan... and does the line stay below the outlet at all times?

If so, obviously, physics says that the line will not back up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes and I agree with you...most of my concern lies in the fact that the braided hose going into the oil pan is securely resting on the cross member there and Im afraid is will fray or break it off with the hit of a bump or something similar.

The engine bay isnt that dirty guys either...maybe from the pics its a little deceiving. I like a clean bay but I'll wait to bling it out come spring when salt and sand on the roads isnt so much of a worry

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes and I agree with you...most of my concern lies in the fact that the braided hose going into the oil pan is securely resting on the cross member there and Im afraid is will fray or break it off with the hit of a bump or something similar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I busted a leak twice because there was about 2 mm of clearance between the fan shroud (aftermarket fan) and the compressor. After xxx miles the rocking back and forth of the engine caused the fan shroud to crack a hole in my radiator . The first hole was so tiny that I was driving myself nuts trying to figure out why my car was overheating. The second hole was a nice little stream of coolant gushing out. From the looks of the picture though it seems like you have adequate clearance.

 

Hey if I couldnt get anymore ghetto...how well do you think a JB Welded BOV would hold up until I can get it Tig welded?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey if I couldnt get anymore ghetto...how well do you think a JB Welded BOV would hold up until I can get it Tig welded?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, don't do it... jb weld is fine for oil return bungs but not BOVs

 

Don't worry about the line rubbing. Just grind a little spot out of the crossmember and call it a day.

-Ryan