Bore Out and Sleeve motor or...
make sure u get the pistons and rings for that application...boring it out would not affect your rod-stroke ratio as in a b20 vtec hybrid motor...u would retain your stock ratio...soo reliability would be the same as of a gsr engine
i am pretty sure that you cannot bore out your stock sleeves and expect any type of reliablilty. if on the other hand you resleeve your block with the correct parts and than proceed to bore to 84 or 84.5mm you should be okay. the factory sleeves just wont take teh stress at that thin of a wall.
Who cares about rod/stroke ratio.
Are you running your car for 6 hours straight? Probably not.
I'll take a LS crank and rods over a GSR crank and rods any day of the week.
Displacement is king on the street, bar none.
At 84.5mm bore, you'd be losing out on almost 45cc by not using a LS crank.
A sleeved and bored GSR block is definitely a nice set-up. Personally, I think it will be more reliable than a CRV due to the fact that there is no external oil line, and there are oiler jets in the bottom end.
But then again, you can make oilers work in a B20, and you can get a Z10 girdle or modify an OEM one.
So it comes down to the oil line. Personally, I have never seen a leak. But over time one may form if the fittings come loose. You'll never have a problem with Honda's VTEC feed on the GSR block.
You'll need a custom headgasket to make this work as well. Boring out a stock gasket is not really an option in my book, mainly because the shape of the gasket has the crimps near the edge of the bore. These crimps are what seals it. Dremel them away and your headgasket won't last as long. Kinda like running a 1 layer silver. They don't last as long. Takes a lot less **** to blow it, ya know?
I have Cometic gaskets in stock for GSR in 85.0 and 86.0 bore, and I also have .056" thick B20 gaskets as well, for those who want to lower their compression half a point.
Take it easy.
Are you running your car for 6 hours straight? Probably not.
I'll take a LS crank and rods over a GSR crank and rods any day of the week.
Displacement is king on the street, bar none.
At 84.5mm bore, you'd be losing out on almost 45cc by not using a LS crank.
A sleeved and bored GSR block is definitely a nice set-up. Personally, I think it will be more reliable than a CRV due to the fact that there is no external oil line, and there are oiler jets in the bottom end.
But then again, you can make oilers work in a B20, and you can get a Z10 girdle or modify an OEM one.
So it comes down to the oil line. Personally, I have never seen a leak. But over time one may form if the fittings come loose. You'll never have a problem with Honda's VTEC feed on the GSR block.
You'll need a custom headgasket to make this work as well. Boring out a stock gasket is not really an option in my book, mainly because the shape of the gasket has the crimps near the edge of the bore. These crimps are what seals it. Dremel them away and your headgasket won't last as long. Kinda like running a 1 layer silver. They don't last as long. Takes a lot less **** to blow it, ya know?
I have Cometic gaskets in stock for GSR in 85.0 and 86.0 bore, and I also have .056" thick B20 gaskets as well, for those who want to lower their compression half a point.
Take it easy.
Who cares about rod/stroke ratio.
Are you running your car for 6 hours straight? Probably not.
Are you running your car for 6 hours straight? Probably not.
Going on highway 5, it is easy to cruise at 90+ miles per hour with the frequent runs up to 110-115.
[Modified by t, 8:59 PM 9/13/2001]
block is gonna be bored and sleeved - by a machine shop. the estimated wait is 3 weeks. im having everything necessary- included crankshaft assembled (if i decide to do it). how much would be a good price to pay including labor? thanks.
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Who cares about rod/stroke ratio.
Are you running your car for 6 hours straight? Probably not.
I'll take a LS crank and rods over a GSR crank and rods any day of the week.
Displacement is king on the street, bar none.
At 84.5mm bore, you'd be losing out on almost 45cc by not using a LS crank.
Are you running your car for 6 hours straight? Probably not.
I'll take a LS crank and rods over a GSR crank and rods any day of the week.
Displacement is king on the street, bar none.
At 84.5mm bore, you'd be losing out on almost 45cc by not using a LS crank.
You see, when rod ratios are low, they put more stress on the side walls of the pistons, thus causing them to wear the rings prematurely. This is why the B16 is an almost perfect rod ratio, and why the B16B (CTR) has a stock rev limit of 9500rpm, but can withstand rev's to 11k with minor work.
Don't forget that if you plan on boring out the GSR block with sleaves, you will need to find a manufacturer to make you a 84mm headgasket. It's not like you can just go get one from the dealer, it will have to be custom made.
So your effective displacement will be just under 2.0l (1932.91 cc's to be exact)
Assuming a 84mm bore and 87.2mm stroke.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Using the LS engine will net you a 1972.81cc engine.
Assuming a 84mm bore and 89mm stroke.
----------------------------------------------------------------
NOW, if you really want power, and don't care about revs, do this.
88-91 Prelude crank (95mm) in a LS or CRV sleaved block.
Get 85mm Pistons and whammo, you got yourself a 2156.24cc engine. Throw a Z10 crank girdle on it, and you should be good to just over 7k rpms.
The rod ratio of said engine above would be 1.38 (not good for high revs)
As compared with a GSR at 1.58 , LS/CRV engine at 1.54, and B16 at 1.75
A very good rod ratio is 1.7 - 1.9
HTH
BTW, Darton is soon to release they're closed deck designed sleaves. Cost about $600+ install. Maximum bore 83mm. If you go with the open deck, you can effectively bore them to 85mm max.
I've been told that Nrg-Racing.com will soon carry the line of Darton sleaves, and if you need the work done, they have access to a full machine shop that can do the work.
Later.
To answer your question, No. It will not be as reliable as stock, 84mm is alot, thats 3mm on the whole cylinder wall, remember the b18c block is open deck and that would leave the cylinder wally very thin, even with a re-sleeving. Prolonged engine speeds and high temps will weaken the walls over time faster than stock walls.
oops, my fault, you're right, the rest still stands though, b20 walls are thicker stock. Still better in my opinion.
[Modified by egghead, 1:55 AM 9/14/2001]
oops, my fault, you're right, the rest still stands though, b20 walls are thicker stock. Still better in my opinion.
[Modified by egghead, 1:55 AM 9/14/2001]
only place i can think of offhand that sleeve's honda motors is Benson's in Socal...there is another place around here but i can't remember the name
i already got a place to do it. they are planning on sleeving it and rebuilding the block with JG sleeves. again.. b20 or bore+sleeve?
Before people post misinformation, B20 blocks are not closed decks. They are open decks just like all the other B series motors.
If i were you CJ, and since this is your daily driver, i would get the B20. If you want to go all out, get another car and still have a reliable daily driver. I'm sure you have seen my block, but i would never do what i did to it on my daily driver. Just to much money. And with the custom pistons and high compression i switched to, i cant even run pump gas.
I recommend finding a blown GSR block and building that up, or get a B20 block, and be happy. It will be fast with your setup either way. The machine work on the GSR motor is also lots of money. I spent way to much on mine, and i had free labor. Labor is lots of money when you start building the block. B20 labor (install) is much cheaper if you leave the stock pistons.
BTW Mike K, do you know where i can get an 84mm GSR head gasket?
If i were you CJ, and since this is your daily driver, i would get the B20. If you want to go all out, get another car and still have a reliable daily driver. I'm sure you have seen my block, but i would never do what i did to it on my daily driver. Just to much money. And with the custom pistons and high compression i switched to, i cant even run pump gas.
I recommend finding a blown GSR block and building that up, or get a B20 block, and be happy. It will be fast with your setup either way. The machine work on the GSR motor is also lots of money. I spent way to much on mine, and i had free labor. Labor is lots of money when you start building the block. B20 labor (install) is much cheaper if you leave the stock pistons.
BTW Mike K, do you know where i can get an 84mm GSR head gasket?
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only place i can think of offhand that sleeve's honda motors is Benson's in Socal...there is another place around here but i can't remember the name
i already got a place to do it. they are planning on sleeving it and rebuilding the block with JG sleeves. again.. b20 or bore+sleeve?
[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 1:52 AM 9/14/2001]
BTW, Darton is soon to release they're closed deck designed sleaves. Cost about $600+ install. Maximum bore 83mm.
Greg
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