TPS sensor is being homo...got a question...
I just replaced my TPS sensor recently. Before it was idling at 2100rpms. Now it is idling at around 750-800rpms. I am still throwing a code for the TPS and its starting to **** me off. Do the TPS and the VTEC pressure switch go hand in hand because I am throwing a code for both. The pressure switch just needs repinned is all. Thanks for any help...
Have you put the little lug on the TPS? Ensure that is on there properly.
Where does it idle at when the car is fully warmed up?
Grab a multimeter and verify you are at .47 volts at idle.
Where does it idle at when the car is fully warmed up?
Grab a multimeter and verify you are at .47 volts at idle.
ok....lug?? When it is fully warmed up it idles at like 800 to 950 sometimes but most of the time it idles at like 800. The throttle cable is not set to stock spec's and neither is that one screw that is on the throttle that lets in air at idle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah there is a "lug" on the TB so it'll move the TPS bracket to give the ECU the correct voltage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The TPS is held on with two TQ bit screws if it's JDM. Loosen both of them and run a positive lead of a volt meter to the middle wire off the tps (red), and the ground to the battery ground. With the key on it should read .45-.52 volts with no throttle. If it's not then adjust it, if it is right and still throws a code (after a ECU reset) then your TPS is bad and needs to be replaced.
The TPS is held on with two TQ bit screws if it's JDM. Loosen both of them and run a positive lead of a volt meter to the middle wire off the tps (red), and the ground to the battery ground. With the key on it should read .45-.52 volts with no throttle. If it's not then adjust it, if it is right and still throws a code (after a ECU reset) then your TPS is bad and needs to be replaced.
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