MPFI Problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
From: Groton, CT, USA
MPFI Problem
Hey guys....I'm calling on ur help again. Heres the scoop...I just dropped in a 91 crx si motor(D16A6) into my 88 dx hatch. I'm having a problem. My car turns over but will not start. My ecu is throwing a code 4 and a code 20.
Code 4=crank angle sensor (the two blue wires that I added)
code 20=electric load (wtf?)
I know its not the timing and the motor is fine. The car I took the motor out of ran fine. I drove it to the place where the motor was pulled. And I know the timing is perfect because I didnt touch the distributor at all or touch or remove the head...nothing has changed from when the motor was pulled so that is NOT the problem.
Heres what I've found out... I checked each spark plug in each cylinder...they were all soaked with gas, so fuel is being injected just fine. So then you may think there was no spark right? wrong....I checked each spark plug wire...I'm getting sufficient spark to each cylinder. So why aren't I getting combustion? Could it be that I put the injector plugs in the wrong order? Because then fuel would be injected into the wrong cylinder when the spark is occuring in another...Know what I mean?
The thing is, when I read the mpfi tutorials they say injector #1, injector #2 and so on. But, they don't tell you in which order they go, for example, when you're looking at the injectors under your hood, what order and what color do they go in?
4 3 2 1 OR
1 2 3 4 OR
4 2 3 1 ?
See what I'm saying? does the order go left to right, right to left, or does the order go the same as the firing order like the third example above?
Also which order do the colors go at the ecu pins? Which color and which number injector are at each of the four pins?
For example right now I have it like this:
A1=injector #1, Brown wire
A3=injector #2, Red wire
A5=injector #3, Blue wire
A7=injector #4, Yellow wire
I also ran the same color wire from the ecu pins straight to the injector plugs (as opposed to the way the MPFI tutorials tell you how to do it, they tell you to cut but I just depinned and repinned the wires).
One last thing to add, I followed the directions very carefully, I also use a multimeter to test all the wires that I spliced to see if there were any breaks and no, all the wires were fine. I also soldered all connections, heat shrinked them, then electrical taped them, then loomed them and then electrical taped them so that it came out very clean, but I'm still having these problems....WHY?
Please help me....thx
ps: i'm posting this for a friend, we already got the answer for the Injector order (4,3,2,1) Thanks to a member of HT. But can anyone else help with his other problem?
Code 4=crank angle sensor (the two blue wires that I added)
code 20=electric load (wtf?)
I know its not the timing and the motor is fine. The car I took the motor out of ran fine. I drove it to the place where the motor was pulled. And I know the timing is perfect because I didnt touch the distributor at all or touch or remove the head...nothing has changed from when the motor was pulled so that is NOT the problem.
Heres what I've found out... I checked each spark plug in each cylinder...they were all soaked with gas, so fuel is being injected just fine. So then you may think there was no spark right? wrong....I checked each spark plug wire...I'm getting sufficient spark to each cylinder. So why aren't I getting combustion? Could it be that I put the injector plugs in the wrong order? Because then fuel would be injected into the wrong cylinder when the spark is occuring in another...Know what I mean?
The thing is, when I read the mpfi tutorials they say injector #1, injector #2 and so on. But, they don't tell you in which order they go, for example, when you're looking at the injectors under your hood, what order and what color do they go in?
4 3 2 1 OR
1 2 3 4 OR
4 2 3 1 ?
See what I'm saying? does the order go left to right, right to left, or does the order go the same as the firing order like the third example above?
Also which order do the colors go at the ecu pins? Which color and which number injector are at each of the four pins?
For example right now I have it like this:
A1=injector #1, Brown wire
A3=injector #2, Red wire
A5=injector #3, Blue wire
A7=injector #4, Yellow wire
I also ran the same color wire from the ecu pins straight to the injector plugs (as opposed to the way the MPFI tutorials tell you how to do it, they tell you to cut but I just depinned and repinned the wires).
One last thing to add, I followed the directions very carefully, I also use a multimeter to test all the wires that I spliced to see if there were any breaks and no, all the wires were fine. I also soldered all connections, heat shrinked them, then electrical taped them, then loomed them and then electrical taped them so that it came out very clean, but I'm still having these problems....WHY?
Please help me....thx
ps: i'm posting this for a friend, we already got the answer for the Injector order (4,3,2,1) Thanks to a member of HT. But can anyone else help with his other problem?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,834
Likes: 1
From: OH
crank angle
u have some sort of bad wiring on the ecu side when u did MPFI if u are having a code 4
as for the ELD
u have bad ground
make sure u clean all of them, on the chassis, on the tranny, and 2 on the thermostat housing
u have some sort of bad wiring on the ecu side when u did MPFI if u are having a code 4
as for the ELD
u have bad ground
make sure u clean all of them, on the chassis, on the tranny, and 2 on the thermostat housing
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 29
From: colorado springs, co, usa
Re: (USDM 4G VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crank angle
u have some sort of bad wiring on the ecu side when u did MPFI if u are having a code 4</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct - code 4 is crank angle sensor which is orange and white wires which were relocated from C1 & C2 to B10 & B12 - the wires you added for C1 & C2 are for the cylinder position sensor - problem with these throws code 9 - #1 injector is nearest timing belt (at cylinder #1) - #1=brown - #2=red - #3=blue - #4=yellow
u have some sort of bad wiring on the ecu side when u did MPFI if u are having a code 4</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct - code 4 is crank angle sensor which is orange and white wires which were relocated from C1 & C2 to B10 & B12 - the wires you added for C1 & C2 are for the cylinder position sensor - problem with these throws code 9 - #1 injector is nearest timing belt (at cylinder #1) - #1=brown - #2=red - #3=blue - #4=yellow
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
From: Emo land, Utah, USA
Re: (USDM 4G VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as for the ELD
u have bad ground
make sure u clean all of them, on the chassis, on the tranny, and 2 on the thermostat housing</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not entirely true. You can test if the ELD is even getting power first of all so try this.
The ELD is located in the fuse box in the middle. Refer to this pic
as for the ELD
u have bad ground
make sure u clean all of them, on the chassis, on the tranny, and 2 on the thermostat housing</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not entirely true. You can test if the ELD is even getting power first of all so try this.
The ELD is located in the fuse box in the middle. Refer to this pic
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,834
Likes: 1
From: OH
Re: (wicked B16)
yea
u are correct
but have u had this code??
i had it twise and my friend had it once
and after countless hrs of troubleshooting every relay, sensor, conection, and disabling almost every circuit on the car we came to find out it was caused by bad grounds....
as a first try its better this way
and yes if not then go with the book!
u are correct
but have u had this code??
i had it twise and my friend had it once
and after countless hrs of troubleshooting every relay, sensor, conection, and disabling almost every circuit on the car we came to find out it was caused by bad grounds....
as a first try its better this way
and yes if not then go with the book!
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