Well I got my DSM injectors (the right ones) in today, running via my newly installed Hondata. The car cranked up perfect and I drove it down the driveway and back, it seems to be running well but now I'm getting a code 16 which is a faulty fuel injector . I'm running a P28 ECU now and it seems that this is a common code with the old civics, but I don't like it regardless. Could it have anything to do with me running the DSM injectors which require resistors? How do I check for a bad injector?

 

Ok scratch the whole running good part. I just took the car out for a longer drive to learn that I have a rev limiter kicking in at 3,500rpm .

I looked under the hood for all of my wiring connections. Everything seems right and I soldered the connections.

 

is the hondata blue box on?

the hondata chip installed on your ecu wont allow the engine to go past 4k if the blue box isnt plugged in.

maybe take out the injectors from the intake manifold and turn the key to the click before turning on the engine and see if each injector is shooting out fuel.

its kidna ghetto and prolly not that safe but im not sure of any other way to test injectors.

the other option you have to see if they are all shooting fuel, is to take out the spark plugs and put a towel in each cylinder hole. if they all get wet with fuel then you know its shooting fuel still

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the hondata blue box on?

the hondata chip installed on your ecu wont allow the engine to go past 4k if the blue box isnt plugged in.

maybe take out the injectors from the intake manifold and turn the key to the click before turning on the engine and see if each injector is shooting out fuel.

its kidna ghetto and prolly not that safe but im not sure of any other way to test injectors.

the other option you have to see if they are all shooting fuel, is to take out the spark plugs and put a towel in each cylinder hole. if they all get wet with fuel then you know its shooting fuel still</TD></TR></TABLE>

My hondata didn't come with a blue box. It's a S100 system. Is it supposed too?

Good idea on checking the injectors. I'll just have a fire extinguisher near by.

 

the s100 just attaches to the ecu. only the s200 comes with the blue box

im not sure why you can only rev to 3.5k

you might have to get used to the whole take the fuel rail off, then back on, then off, then on

part of the fun with trouble shooting injectors

how is the idle? did you change any other parts on your car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the s100 just attaches to the ecu. only the s200 comes with the blue box

im not sure why you can only rev to 3.5k

you might have to get used to the whole take the fuel rail off, then back on, then off, then on

part of the fun with trouble shooting injectors

how is the idle? did you change any other parts on your car?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing else has been changed. The car seems to idle well. I removed the P12 jumper in the ECU like hondata states. Is this only for certain applications?

I also checked the resistance of the injectors. I got right at 3.0ohms for each one. However, I'm not sure what a normal DSM injector should be at.

 

I have seen a trick where you put a screwdriver tip on the injector and then your ear to the handle of the screwdriver like using a glass to listen through a wall. You should hear a tick.

The rev problem sounds like the S200 not being plugged up. WHo wrote the prograqm for you? Can you have them test it? Not sure how the S100 works well enough to suggest what else could be broken. Why did you not get the S200?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have seen a trick where you put a screwdriver tip on the injector and then your ear to the handle of the screwdriver like using a glass to listen through a wall. You should hear a tick.

The rev problem sounds like the S200 not being plugged up. WHo wrote the prograqm for you? Can you have them test it? Not sure how the S100 works well enough to suggest what else could be broken. Why did you not get the S200?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I kinda tried the screwdriver trick but I couldn't really tell anything.

SGT wrote my program.

I don't see why it matters what system I got, but if you have to know I got the S100 because I don't need any of the extra features and don't have good access to a dyno even if I did. It can tune the same as a S200 so thats good enough for me, besides I can always upgrade if I need too.

 

is it 3.5K or 4K.. if its 4K then theres bad connection somewhere - at least when i had my s200 unplugged it would hit rev limiter.. or when i had bad cable - i also had 4K rev limit..

i'm guessing that you have.. but have you reset ecu to see if the code comes back? it could be random code if you had your car die at a stop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it 3.5K or 4K.. if its 4K then theres bad connection somewhere - at least when i had my s200 unplugged it would hit rev limiter.. or when i had bad cable - i also had 4K rev limit..

i'm guessing that you have.. but have you reset ecu to see if the code comes back? it could be random code if you had your car die at a stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is definitely 3,500rpm. I've tried resetting the ECU several times. Car hasn't died on me yet. It idles and drives fine at any rpm below 3.5k.

 

it revs to 3500 because of the injector code.

If the ecu doesnt have the BARO sensor, then it can throw that code for no reason.

 

Was just asking, nothing wrong with an S100. I like the stealthness of the system perosnally.

Steve, didn't know that there was a code to stop revving at 3,500. I assume this would not be the same as limp mode then?

 

Did you run the car before the injectors with no codes? Or did you just get this ecu, because if you just got the ecu check and see where it came from cause I had the same problem with my P28 it turns out I got a european P28 with doesnt have a baro sensor so like SGT said it was also throwing fuel injector code. If thats the case then you'll have to get a new chip burned with the code disabled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zigs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you run the car before the injectors with no codes? Or did you just get this ecu, because if you just got the ecu check and see where it came from cause I had the same problem with my P28 it turns out I got a european P28 with doesnt have a baro sensor so like SGT said it was also throwing fuel injector code. If thats the case then you'll have to get a new chip burned with the code disabled.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the car ran fine before the injectors and it still runs fine until it hits the rev limiter. I got the ECU used and already socketed so it could very much be a European ECU. Yesterday evening I also re-checked all of my wiring and everything seemed perfect.

 

So it did run fine with this ecu with the stock injectors? If it did try putting the stock injectors back in and see if that gets rid of the code. Also could try putting your stock ecu in and see if it throws the code. Get the number off your ecu and if it goes p28-g01 its a european ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zigs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it did run fine with this ecu with the stock injectors? If it did try putting the stock injectors back in and see if that gets rid of the code. Also could try putting your stock ecu in and see if it throws the code. Get the number off your ecu and if it goes p28-g01 its a european ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No I misread your question. The car has never run with this ECU and stock injectors considering it is setup for 450 injectors.

Edit: I just checked the ECU. It is a P28-gO1. Man what a relief, now I just ticked that the guy that sold it too me didn't inform me of this because I wasted money getting SGT to program my base map.

 

Where did you get the ECU from?

 

Yeah the euro ecu dont have a baro sensor which also throws the fuel injector code so you should be throwing code 13 as well I would think, but anyways just call SGT up and have him burn you another basemap with codes 13 and 16 disabled that what I had to do.

 

The 3500 rpm limit is because of the injector error. The injector error is because the ECU is a P28-G. The ROM will need to be rewritten with the barometric air pressure and injector errors switched off. (for good measure switch off the O2 heater error as well). The P28-G is missing a bunch of componants that causes these errors with the US P28 chips.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondata &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 3500 rpm limit is because of the injector error. The injector error is because the ECU is a P28-G. The ROM will need to be rewritten with the barometric air pressure and injector errors switched off. (for good measure switch off the O2 heater error as well). The P28-G is missing a bunch of componants that causes these errors with the US P28 chips.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks