As I mentioned in another post, I just picked up a newer chassis into which I will transfer my cage and everything else to have a fresher car. The new car has no rust in the floor at all (one of the reasons I bought it). On my old car, the tar was lifting off the floor from rust. On this car, it isn't. Should I bother removing it? I know it barely weighs anything from my experience with the old car (I remocved about 1/2 of it). A friend told me to remove it because it retains humidity and will lead to rust. However, the car is 12 years old and it hasn't rusted yet. Opinions?

Also, I have heard that one can use dry ice to facilitate removal. I was just wondering at what temperature the stuff becomes easy to remove, because it's going down below 0 Celsius every night these days and soon it will be even colder. Can I skip the ice and just go out and work in the cold? Or does the surface have to get way colder than that? Thanks all.

 

Sorry about this but Im going to be assuming things here.

I assume that dry ice is way colder than 0 degrees.

EDIT or celcius.

 

Here's my How-To: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=525936

 

I'm pretty sure its colder then 0 in montreal with the windchill...leave the car outside over night and try for early morning ...using a scraper and a hammer and it will come off in big chunks.

Also 10-15lbs is a lot when you're only making 115-120hp.

 

Thanks for the info, VX. I think I'll do it your way, except for the caulking, which I will leave in place.

I know dry ice is colder than 0 Celsius, but I wonder how cold the floor actually gets before the tar becomes easy to remove. It doesn't reach the temperature of the core of the dry ice in 20 minutes...

 

As long as it's good and below freezing, it will be easy. I did it by leaving outside for a night, pull into heated garage and go to work. Passenger side was easy, but when I started on the driver's side it was too warm. So I left it outside for another night and then did the driver's side. Quite easy

 

Just go out in the morning and start whacking the tar with a hammer. It will break up in nice, big chunks when it's that cold. And the noise will make you the most popular neighbor on your block. Win-win!!

 

If you have access to air tools, get an air hammer and use that. Just hit the tar with it every few inches. Use an attachment that has a flat point and hit the tar straight down. It will come up in huge chunks. I was able to remove the tar in front of both seats in about 3 minutes this way. Very easy and no need to go buy dry ice and play with it.

 

I've heard that with a heat gun, you can scrape it off in big piles of steaming goo.

 

that's a great how-to vx, thanks for taking the time. i even was able to find a dry ice dealer right by my work.

i like how they were all getting on you at the end about removing the caulking, as if to say your car is caulked together and now it will fall apart. lose some structural rigidity perhaps. don't mind the haters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard that with a heat gun, you can scrape it off in big piles of steaming goo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah, Arizona summer makes it's own steaming goo.

-travis, who would have waited until winter when it was freezing, but would have been waiting a long, long time...

 

i did it last week. it was only in the mid 30s temp when i did it. stuff came up in chunks just like w/the dry ice. after 11yrs+250kmiles, it wasn't sticking much.