Has anyone heard of a spin down test ??? and if so let me know what you know ...... been talking about it in school but im still confused on a few things and please no one tell me to use the search button because believe me i have ,,,,..... even tryed google and yahoo

 

are you talking about on a dyno?

 

no this is actually a test to determine if you have a problem with your clutch or tranny...... it seperates a worn clutch from syncros

 

then you have been misinformed.

Nothing past a test-drive by a good mechanic will be needed to determine such problems.

 

no i have not been misinformed this is what i know and what i want to know
this is what i know about it so far ....
~you leave the car in neutral and chuck the front wheels ....
~rev the car to 1500 to 2000 rpms and then while keeping one foot on the clutch and the other on the gas you put the car into 1st
~ bring it back into neutral without releasing either the clutch or the gas and then wait 5 seconds
~ once 5 seconds has passed still holding the clutch and the gas (keep car at 1500 - 2000 rpms) throw the car in reverse
...... now here is where it gets confusing this is a test to determine if you have a prob in either the tranny (syncroz) or with the clutch ..... now here is where it gets confusing...
(got this out of a book from one of the instructors )
before i continue for those who dont know
*if the clutch disc isnt completly released clutch drag occurs. clutch drag causes gear clash..... especially when shifting into reverse.... it can also cause hard starting because the engine attempts to turn the tranni input shaft.....*
now this is what the book said pretty much what i got also
* It should take no longer then 5 seconds for the clutch disc, input shaft, & tranny gears to come to a complete stop after disengagement this period is called the clutch spndown time, it is normal and shouldnt be mistaken for clutch drag!!....
* If the shift into reverse causes gear clash, raise the vehicle safely and check the clutch linkage for binding, broken or bent parts. If no problems are found in the linkage, the tranni and clutch assemblie must be removed so that the clutch parts can be examined.
* drag occurs when --- there is a warped disc or pressure plate ....loose disc facing.....defective release lever.....or incorrect clutch pedal adjustment that results in excessive play
binding occurs when--- the splines in the clutch disc hub or on the tranny input shaft are damaged or when there are probs with the release levers.....
now for the golden q....... is there a way to tell what it is without lifting the vehicle or removing the freaking tranny ???? maybe by the way it sounds or when it begins to grind and if so when and where ???? or what would it sound like ????
true a goof tec would know within a test drive but to become a good tec you have to go through alot of these little long routes to learn the better way now i just want to know if anyone out there knows of a better way !~

 

it can also cause hard starting because the engine attempts to turn the tranni input shaft.....*


your joking right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EuRaZiAnRsXGoDDeSS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now for the golden q....... is there a way to tell what it is without lifting the vehicle or removing the freaking tranny ???? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, you drive it.

I'm no master tech, but i can generally diagnose whats wrong between the clutch, synchros, TO bearing or inpust shaft bearing/seal, or if you exploded your diff. I've been victim to just about every one of those ailments (thanks for great gearboxes, saturn).

Please post which book you got this from so i can promise never ever to read it for fear of getting dumber.

 

I understand what you and your "spin down" test are trying to do/prove but there are way too many variables in the equation to prove that the disc is/is not completely disengaging or if the clutch release method is at fault.

warped PP, dry input shaft, warped FW, and remember reverse is an unsynchronized gear................


anyway

 

i know that reverse is a unsynchronized gear this is just something that was talked about in school and i was wondering is anyone had any input for me or some advice but since all i am getting are negative comments i wont even bother!
but if someone could tell me of a better way please do so !

 

but if someone could tell me of a better way please do so !


sure, I'll gladly lend advise...

a "better way" to do what??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EuRaZiAnRsXGoDDeSS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but if someone could tell me of a better way please do so !</TD></TR></TABLE>

Someone who knows what to look for and a test drive are all you really need.

Busted clutch/pp - wont go into gear while car is running, clutch engagement not as it should be and or clutch slips under high load (uphill in 4th/5th @ 30mph or WOT in 1st/2nd).
Busted synchros - hard to shift without rev-matching/double-clutching
TO bearing - grinding noise when clutch released in neutral, goes away with clutch depressed
Exploded diff - big *** hole in your bellhousing, tranny fluid deposited across the pavement

 

i agree a good tec would just know from a test drive but it takes experience something that i do not have i want to know if there is a better way to determine if it is the syncros or the clutch....
looking for some signs i should look for .... sounds i would hear things i would experience anyone with any information on what they have experienced would be great and much appreciated .... thats all i created this post looking for... little things that would help me better understand what to look for when testing for one of these problems ..... sorry if i have confused anyone but the whole explination as given to me by one of my instructors was confusing enough.... the whole fact that there are no syncros in reverse boggled my mind and i wanted someone to shed some light for me ont the whole process if they could. So once again if anyone has any information they could share with me of sighns i should look for it would be much appreciated... ie= things i should listen for that would let me know right off the back that it was in fact my clutch or syncros ..... things i would/ or could expect to feel while driving the car....
thanx again in advance

 

If you arent qualified to make the diagnosis, thats ok.

Find a decent transmission or honda shop, or if the car is still under warranty drop it by the dealer, describe whatever problem it is you're having (which you've still failed to describe in any capacity in this post) and have them test drive the car.

And then go from there as far as getting the repairs done.

 

Do an easy test to see if it is the synchros or the clutch that causes the grinding noise between gears:

Depress clutch, let off gas. Wait a few seconds, then shift gears.

If there is a grinding noise when shifting with a noticeable pause after depressing the clutch, odds are it is the synchros.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EuRaZiAnRsXGoDDeSS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i have not been misinformed this is what i know and what i want to know
this is what i know about it so far ....
~you leave the car in neutral and chuck the front wheels ....
~rev the car to 1500 to 2000 rpms and then while keeping one foot on the clutch and the other on the gas you put the car into 1st
~ bring it back into neutral without releasing either the clutch or the gas and then wait 5 seconds
~ once 5 seconds has passed still holding the clutch and the gas (keep car at 1500 - 2000 rpms) throw the car in reverse
...... now here is where it gets confusing this is a test to determine if you have a prob in either the tranny (syncroz) or with the clutch ..... now here is where it gets confusing...
(got this out of a book from one of the instructors )
before i continue for those who dont know
*if the clutch disc isnt completly released clutch drag occurs. clutch drag causes gear clash..... especially when shifting into reverse.... it can also cause hard starting because the engine attempts to turn the tranni input shaft.....*
now this is what the book said pretty much what i got also
* It should take no longer then 5 seconds for the clutch disc, input shaft, & tranny gears to come to a complete stop after disengagement this period is called the clutch spndown time, it is normal and shouldnt be mistaken for clutch drag!!....
* If the shift into reverse causes gear clash, raise the vehicle safely and check the clutch linkage for binding, broken or bent parts. If no problems are found in the linkage, the tranni and clutch assemblie must be removed so that the clutch parts can be examined.
* drag occurs when --- there is a warped disc or pressure plate ....loose disc facing.....defective release lever.....or incorrect clutch pedal adjustment that results in excessive play
binding occurs when--- the splines in the clutch disc hub or on the tranny input shaft are damaged or when there are probs with the release levers.....
now for the golden q....... is there a way to tell what it is without lifting the vehicle or removing the freaking tranny ???? maybe by the way it sounds or when it begins to grind and if so when and where ???? or what would it sound like ????
true a goof tec would know within a test drive but to become a good tec you have to go through alot of these little long routes to learn the better way now i just want to know if anyone out there knows of a better way !~</TD></TR></TABLE>


This way sounds quite dangerous, and oh so hard on the tranny.

 

well the way i would diagnose a problem like that would be.. see how many miles there is on the clutch.. then usually bad syncros causes grinds moving or not.. and a bad pp and clutch would only happend usually while moving...you also have to ask yourself and guess what kind of driver the person is based on driving style

 

thank you guys for all of your responses ... im not currently experiencing any problems. I was just wondering because im currently attending a auto program and it was something that we were talking about in class wondering if anyone has ever heard of such a thing!~ actually this isnt hard on the tranny at all. i have found after talking to a few people ....a explination that sums everything up. The reason for bringing the car to first then back to neutral is to see if the clutch is binding(you would feel a grind out of first). like said before there are no syncros in reverse that would be just plain stupid to have them there. The instructors found like many of you have found bringing the car into reverse pointless(thats what boggled my mind) they said it was probably an error in the text and shouldnt be there. Sat around and thought about the whole concept while looking at a transmission open on the bench and it took a while for the whole concept to sink in but i think i got it now. thanx again for your input... sorry for taking up your time just thought that this was interesting !

 

Spin down test is when you test to see how long it takes for the clutch to come to a complete stop once it's released. The clutch must come to a stop wihin 2 seconds. This is done with the car stationary. warm up car to operating temp and depress the clutch. put the tranny into any gear and within 2 seconds you should be able to move it to gear without grinding. If theres grinding, you have cltuch drag. CAUSE: bent marcels in the clutch or warped pressure plate. this is what i learned in honda school.