NITROUS + D16
what do i need to make it possible.. well im gunna do it so what do i need to make it safe(as safe as i can get it)
i want it to run.. what cam do you sugest? im thinkin one of those lil zex cams, maybe give comp a call or something.. its an auto, dont worry though tci will be getting a call too (3000 stall baby
)
any hoo thanks.. what do i need? besides the nitrous(kit and everything)
i want it to run.. what cam do you sugest? im thinkin one of those lil zex cams, maybe give comp a call or something.. its an auto, dont worry though tci will be getting a call too (3000 stall baby
)any hoo thanks.. what do i need? besides the nitrous(kit and everything)
Do a compression test before you start.
1. new plugs ngk bkr7e?s
2. FPR
3. New clutch
4. Fuel pump
5. Motor mount inserts
Check your timing - pull ~2 degrees per 50 shot. I also suggest a window switch.
Summit Pricing and Part Number for Window Switch
#MSD-8956 RPM Window Activation Switch = $76.95
#MSD-8744 RPM Modules 4000-4800 = $20.69
#MSD-8748 RPM Modules 8000-8800 = $20.69
#MSD-8961 MSD High Current Relay DPST = $25.95 TOTAL = $148.28
Though you would prob need lower rpm pills.
1. new plugs ngk bkr7e?s
2. FPR
3. New clutch
4. Fuel pump
5. Motor mount inserts
Check your timing - pull ~2 degrees per 50 shot. I also suggest a window switch.
Summit Pricing and Part Number for Window Switch
#MSD-8956 RPM Window Activation Switch = $76.95
#MSD-8744 RPM Modules 4000-4800 = $20.69
#MSD-8748 RPM Modules 8000-8800 = $20.69
#MSD-8961 MSD High Current Relay DPST = $25.95 TOTAL = $148.28
Though you would prob need lower rpm pills.
oh yeah.. its a brand new motor.. so i guess the compression is ok lol.. should i retard the cam gear any? i was thinking 1 or 2 deg. that way i wont have to rev it as high to get it in its power band and i wont have to use such a high rpm pill.. maybe im way wrong and that doesnt make since to you, but anyways im in a hurry so thanks
I have a b&m - titan has them w/guage for 80 shipped - I wouldn't touch the cam gears unless your at a dyno. BTW, you can get pills for any rpm. Just search http://www.summitracing.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitrouspete »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what fpr do you recamend?
thanx for the help guys..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock?
You do know that with a dry kit, it will raise your fuel pressures to compensate for the nitrous?
But the basic necessities include:
1 step colder spark plugs
Retard IGNITION timing 1-3 degrees
Run 93+ octane ONLY when squeezing.
Open up your exhaust as much as possible.
Don't hit the rev limiter, and don't spray under 2k rpms.
Good luck!
thanx for the help guys..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock?
You do know that with a dry kit, it will raise your fuel pressures to compensate for the nitrous?
But the basic necessities include:
1 step colder spark plugs
Retard IGNITION timing 1-3 degrees
Run 93+ octane ONLY when squeezing.
Open up your exhaust as much as possible.
Don't hit the rev limiter, and don't spray under 2k rpms.
Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98CTRCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You do know that with a dry kit, it will raise your fuel pressures to compensate for the nitrous?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm yeah, he never said anything about what kit he had - though he said something about zex cam.
You do know that with a dry kit, it will raise your fuel pressures to compensate for the nitrous?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm yeah, he never said anything about what kit he had - though he said something about zex cam.
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yeah its an auto, and ill be useing the nitrous express wet kit, bottle warmer, purge, the works! so yall dont think ill need a afpr? iv already got colder plugs, and brand new motor mounts. what fuel pump do you recamend? the way its looking right now its either gunna be a cam or a stall.. so im pretty sure ill be calling tci! thanx alot guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He DID however say that the car is an auto, so what would you have him do with that clutch?
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was hinting at a manual tranny swap
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was hinting at a manual tranny swap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitrouspete »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no manual swap.. im poor</TD></TR></TABLE>
just joking...I was covering my tracks
I have a walbro pump - I believe lightening has them for 99 shipped.
just joking...I was covering my tracks
I have a walbro pump - I believe lightening has them for 99 shipped.
1. ZEX kit
2. Champion RC9YC4 plugs (thanks ZEX man!)
3. Walbro 255 HP fuel pump
4. 310-325 cc injectors
5. MSD 6AL (7800 limiter) and rechipped ECU (8500 limiter)
6. slicks and LSD
2. Champion RC9YC4 plugs (thanks ZEX man!)
3. Walbro 255 HP fuel pump
4. 310-325 cc injectors
5. MSD 6AL (7800 limiter) and rechipped ECU (8500 limiter)
6. slicks and LSD
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98CTRCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock?
You do know that with a dry kit, it will raise your fuel pressures to compensate for the nitrous?
But the basic necessities include:
1 step colder spark plugs
Retard IGNITION timing 1-3 degrees
Run 93+ octane ONLY when squeezing.
Open up your exhaust as much as possible.
Don't hit the rev limiter, and don't spray under 2k rpms.
Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>
An aftermarket FPR is still a good idea with a dry kit.
Stock?
You do know that with a dry kit, it will raise your fuel pressures to compensate for the nitrous?
But the basic necessities include:
1 step colder spark plugs
Retard IGNITION timing 1-3 degrees
Run 93+ octane ONLY when squeezing.
Open up your exhaust as much as possible.
Don't hit the rev limiter, and don't spray under 2k rpms.
Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>
An aftermarket FPR is still a good idea with a dry kit.
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