I've done several HPDE's already and intend to try out at least one time trial in combination with at least 5 to as many HPDE's as I can fit in next season. And eventually in a year or so, hopefully go for my comp license and try out HC with the rest of you nuts.

I am curious what monitoring/reliability devices (as I call them) would everyone suggest? IE gauges, engine oil cooler, tranny fluid cooler, higher capacity radiator, oil catch can?

I run a virtually stock ITR sans the obligatory I/H&E and intend to keep it as close to that as possible. I have seriously considered a good baffled oil pan for this winter. Mugen seems the best for the money? What else if anything for keeping my car running it's best for the long haul?

And Yes, I already change the fluids often.


I'm also interested in Which Gauges?

I'm sure some sort of accurate temperature gauge but, which one? Oil or Water? Or both? Is oil pressure an important warning light to have? I realize that stock gauges are not accurate gauges as such and more warning indicators, so any help here would again be appreciated.

Also which is better to have for gauges? Mechanical or Electronic?

Thanks very much in advance, and yes, I did search and also cross referenced a few of my friends posts that are further along than I.

A.

 

I found an oil temp gauge to be very useful - don't get on it until the oil is good and warm, which can take awhile. A good water temp gauge is probably a reasonable idea, too; my VW's water temp needle never moves once it's up to the "normal" range. I didn't find my oil pressure gauge very useful since I would have to keep my eye plastered to it to notice any pressure drops. A light that is more noticeable than the factory light and also possibly connected to a warning buzzer could be a useful tool if you're running on R tires or suspect you're having pressure problems (falling off VTEC or something.)

It's very possible to use an oil temp gauge to monitor your differential temperature. Usually there are extra plugs you can use, or possibly replace the drain plug with an adaptor for the sender. Just be very careful about over-torquing those brass fittings. I sheered my oil temp sender's adaptor in two - a very scary thing to do as I feared I got brass into my oil pan. Thankfully everything came out of the threads easily.

It also seems reasonable to me to install your gauges before deciding if you need an oil cooler or larger radiator. Those are big-ticket items that you simply may not need.

I used the AutoMeter electric guages. They work well enough, but I did end up with a dead oil pressure sender after about a year. I believe they are very sensitive to sustained vibration, so I would fabricate an adaptor block that you can mount off the engine block on a rubber pad to prevent the same failure. It turns out someone in the VW world discovered this to and designed just such an adaptor for the VWs. Something similar may exist for your ITR.

-Adam

 

An oil cooler is cheap insurance. B series short blocks are not cheap, and getting more expensive.

After the Summit ECHC race weekend I decided a *real* water temp gauge would be a good idea. For the first time ever in LOTS and LOTS of track/race weekends, the factory temp gauge moved towards the H. My assumption is that the stock gauge is a pretty looking idiot light, and anything to the right of "where it usually is" is bad. So I'd suggest oil temp, oil pressure, and coolant temperature.

A/F ratio is superfluous IMO on a stock-ECU'd car. Same with exhaust temp. Now if you go into FPR tuning or ECUs or other things that can affect mixture, then my opinion changes.

BTW...leave it "virtually stock." I love a stock ITR. Brilliant, brilliant car that just does what it's told

 

If you're NOT getting an air-to-oil cooler then do NOT get an oil temp gauge....you don't want to know...

It will just freak you out how high that temp gets in summer on track, and make sure to get a gauge that reads in excess of 300 degrees F....

Matt

 

Anton,

It is good that you are asking this question and you have already seen my ITR. What I have planned to go into my car from reading and researching:

1. Oil cooler and bigger radiator. During the summer, our region can get very hot. I think the added benefit of both of these to save the engine is a good idea. If your engine cannot get hot enough, you can always cover up the oil cooler with cardboard.
2. Oil and water temperature gauges. I have no opinion on electric vs. mechanical. I am getting electric. I think it is easier to install. I thought I read somewhere that mechanical gauges were illegal in ECHC, but I think I am wrong.
3. Oil pressure warning light. I don't think you need a gauge, just a light.
4. Baffled oil pan. I have a J's racing because I got a good deal, but any brand should be ok.
5. Remove the plastic tray that is under the front bumper and remove the front brake heat shields. You may need to protect ball joints and things from the heat with heat resistant tape or something.
6. I installed a catch can. I honestly don't know the benefit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love a stock ITR. Brilliant, brilliant car that just does what it's told </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW...leave it "virtually stock." I love a stock ITR. Brilliant, brilliant car that just does what it's told </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hracer, stock Type R, 1:54 @ CMP on Kumhos, 2 years ago at a THSCC time trial. That told me everything I need to know about an R: change anything, and you may very well end up with a slower car.

Matt&lt;---thinking a stock R is as good as it can get, fwd-wise.

 

just wait until they bring the DC5R over...it's decidedly faster than a DC2R in back to back track tests.