I have a 1988 Civic with a D16Z6 swap. It is a road race car. If I were to swap for a non-vtec B-series, either a B18 or B20, what would I need besides engine, mounts, tranny, axles, wiring and ECU? Will all the wiring have to be redone (it was obviously already redone when I did the first swap) or will it be a simple ECU swap after the engine is installed? As far as money goes, is it better for me to go with a Vtec B-series, like a B20 vtec or LS vtec? What is the down-side of installing a B20 and why don't more people do it? I have a P28 ECU in the car now BTW. Basically, I'm wondering what is the best bang for the buck to get more power (don't say turbo, it's not legal here).

As for brakes, I just bought Koni shocks for an EF. If I install the 4-wheel disc brakes from an Integra, will I be able to keep the same shocks? In other words, can I take just the brakes without changing the whole suspension to Integra parts? As you can see, I haven't done much research on the topic yet. Thanks.

 

If you are using the car strictly for road race and are set on b series, go with a b16a, The motor will humm all day at high rpms, the cable j1/s1 will rock on a track, and its cheaper. The downfall of the b18a/b/b20vtec is the motor will not withstand the high rpm abuse of the road racing for a long period of time as the b16 will, but either would produce a good amount of torque more then the b16.

The wiring will stay the same if your z6 swap wasnt changed to obd1 if so then the wiring will be different, but nothing that cant be fixed with a lil time and money.

by the way sick car...

 

you will be able to use your shock and spring assembly with the disk brakes you get.

 

Thanks guys. It is OBD1 now, so I guess the wiring would have to be redone again.

 

since it is obd1 you can run a obd1 setup easily enough. it wont be much more wiring from what you already have, practically none actually.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As for brakes, I just bought Koni shocks for an EF. If I install the 4-wheel disc brakes from an Integra, will I be able to keep the same shocks? In other words, can I take just the brakes without changing the whole suspension to Integra parts? As you can see, I haven't done much research on the topic yet. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Brakes don't affect the shock forks, 9 times out of 10, since the shock forks bolt to the LCA and not the spindel.

I would recommend running the 9.5" Si front discs and whateevr you have on the rear.

My brake experience

If you feel the 9.5" brakes are too small and don't compliment the way YOU drive, then, yes, get larger rotors and the accompanying hardware.

Try it first before you swap it out. You'd be surprised.

Good luck.

 

you can keep same shocks

 

For the power (about 130 hp) and weight (2000 pounds + driver) I have now, I find these brakes to be just fine when road racing. However, If I had an extra 90-100 pounds of B-series, and an extra 20+ hp, I don't know if they would still cut it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the power (about 130 hp) and weight (2000 pounds + driver) I have now, I find these brakes to be just fine when road racing. However, If I had an extra 90-100 pounds of B-series, and an extra 20+ hp, I don't know if they would still cut it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Remember this civic44. speaking in terms of physics, brakes don't stop your car, your tires do. Brakes only dissipate heat. Do with that info what you will.

I'll back up Driven on this point, the stock brakes will stop your car just fine. Just make sure to go with good fluid and goo pads.

Now, if you find that the stock brakes don't dissipate enough heat and you suffer from boiling fluid or fading pads, Then I would suggest upgrading to larger rotors.

 

The reason for going to larger brakes would be to have a larger heat sink. I currently use Motul 600 with Hawk blues, a combination which is good for a whole weekend of racing incuding a 2-hour enduro without significant "soft-pedal".

 

Upgrade your brakes. You like being able to push 100% at the track over and over without having to worry about your brakes. The less stuff you have to worry about the easier it is to focus on driving, or racing in your case.