Was just toying around and came across the 11" rear rotor upgrade for the ITR. Anyone have any experience with this? Any thoughts if it is worth the effort?

Description

Bolt on 11" upgrade for the RSX TypeS and Integra TypeR will bring better balance to the braking. Used in combination with the 11.75" front upgrade, this package would be all the brakes youd ever need.

NOTE: Installation of this kit with the stock RSX front brakes is NOT recommended.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Dragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any thoughts if it is worth the effort?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not needed and not worth the effort.

 

If its just the rear, I would say it would be dangerous. I know when I nailed the brakes coming off the front stretch at VIR doing 120mph, the rear would get a little wiggly with just the stock rear rotors and cobalt pads. I wouldn't want anything more that would cause them to lock-up too much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Dragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Used in combination with the 11.75" front upgrade</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

jond that depends on your driving style i think...

for me when i was headed down ~120 mph at watkins, i was using some of that rotation to help me get into the bus stop

back to topic on hand...imo you dont need 11" rotors in the rear if your not using race pads to begin with...

 

Assuming that cost wasn't an issue, I would be curious to know what the best brake set-up (front and back) would be for optimal performance that meets the following criteria:
- Fit under a 16" rim
- Maintain e-brake capabilities
- 4 piston front caliper
- largest front rotor possible

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Albino Dragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Used in combination with the 11.75" front upgrade</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats why I questioned what he's saying. The product description he copied said that, but the subject of this post makes me question otherwise.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soup **** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jond that depends on your driving style i think...
for me when i was headed down ~120 mph at watkins, i was using some of that rotation to help me get into the bus stop</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could be. The first time my instructor told me to wait until he says brake, then brake HARD, and the backend started wiggling, it scared the crap out of me. If it turned sidewase at that speed I could very well be dead right now. It was fun after I got used to it. Question is, will ABS still work right if you change just the rear rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its just the rear, I would say it would be dangerous. I know when I nailed the brakes coming off the front stretch at VIR doing 120mph, the rear would get a little wiggly with just the stock rear rotors and cobalt pads. I wouldn't want anything more that would cause them to lock-up too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which front pads were you using?

I had the wiggling problem but that started after using Cobalt GT spec VRs and stock rear pads. I guess there was too much front bias and the rears weren't doing diddly squat. The wiggling stopped after moving up the GT Sports in the rear.

That wiggling is unnerving to say the least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which front pads were you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cobalt GT-Sport front and back with ate superblue fluid.

 

ABS will work fine. To the person who was wiggling- did you turn your ABS off for some reason?

 

Performance with this kit will depend on your pads. Use tamer pads on the rear to avoid locking them up before the fronts. Or get adjustable prop valves but those will be a bit of a pain to set up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not needed and not worth the effort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto

I have the setup on my gsr. but I also have the itr front brake setup and I wanted to balance things out a little more.

I am most likely just going to take it off and get some blank rotors with some cobalt pads

with pads, good rotors, ss lines, and fresh fluid. itr brakes are fine.