b17 what pistons?
what pistons should I put in my b17?
p30 jdm b16a cr will be 11.5 with a one layer head gasket.
will the p30 pistons work?
p73 jdm itr cr will be 11.3 with a one layer head gasket.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
p30 jdm b16a cr will be 11.5 with a one layer head gasket.
will the p30 pistons work?
p73 jdm itr cr will be 11.3 with a one layer head gasket.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. wu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would go with the ctr piston (pct) from a b16b because you will get the 11.3 compresson without having to buy a one layer head gasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>
a one layer headgasket is available aftermarket and remember that you can make one with an oem 3 layer by using only one layer and use copper spray to seal better, but you are always going to seal better using all 3 layers of an oem headgasket.
I will be running CTR pistons in my B17A1 for the 11.36:1 compression whish is awesome in a daily driver.
a one layer headgasket is available aftermarket and remember that you can make one with an oem 3 layer by using only one layer and use copper spray to seal better, but you are always going to seal better using all 3 layers of an oem headgasket.
I will be running CTR pistons in my B17A1 for the 11.36:1 compression whish is awesome in a daily driver.
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no I belive you need to mill off 1mm from each side of th erod on the end where the piston goes.
no problem here, I work at a shop.
even so, any competent machine shop can do this for cheap, like $20.
no problem here, I work at a shop.
even so, any competent machine shop can do this for cheap, like $20.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no I belive you need to mill off 1mm from each side of th erod on the end where the piston goes
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said. I'd go with Pr3's if cost is problem or pct's if cost / octane is a non-issue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said. I'd go with Pr3's if cost is problem or pct's if cost / octane is a non-issue.
Find a reputable and hopefully local machine/engine shop.
go there with a pen and some paper and ask the guy a buncha questions
prices vary on location and workload at any one shop...
go there with a pen and some paper and ask the guy a buncha questions
prices vary on location and workload at any one shop...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no I belive you need to mill off 1mm from each side of th erod on the end where the piston goes.
no problem here, I work at a shop.
even so, any competent machine shop can do this for cheap, like $20.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wondering, but how come no one ever notches the pistons?
no problem here, I work at a shop.
even so, any competent machine shop can do this for cheap, like $20.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just wondering, but how come no one ever notches the pistons?
As far as the machining is concerned, it's a much easier process to mill or grind the rod end then it is to have to try to get inside the piston.
I mean, it wouldn't be that hard to set everything up, but it just takes much more time to set up each piston individually in a mill, make sure the surface you are milling is perpendicular to your line of travel, either get the right size end-mill or indicate the piston twice. . . . . blah, blah, blah.
If your smart and your mill is halfway accurate, you could actually put all four piston rods in the mill and with two passes, have all four rods milled on both sides.
Surface grinder, same thing. Throw them on a magnetic chuck, make sure they are braced, grind one mil. on side one, flip 'em, grind one mil. on side two, and your done.
Ha Ha, by the way, if there are any shops in northern Illinois looking for a machinist, get in touch with me. I've got machining knowledge, just no machines!!!!!!!
I mean, it wouldn't be that hard to set everything up, but it just takes much more time to set up each piston individually in a mill, make sure the surface you are milling is perpendicular to your line of travel, either get the right size end-mill or indicate the piston twice. . . . . blah, blah, blah.
If your smart and your mill is halfway accurate, you could actually put all four piston rods in the mill and with two passes, have all four rods milled on both sides.
Surface grinder, same thing. Throw them on a magnetic chuck, make sure they are braced, grind one mil. on side one, flip 'em, grind one mil. on side two, and your done.
Ha Ha, by the way, if there are any shops in northern Illinois looking for a machinist, get in touch with me. I've got machining knowledge, just no machines!!!!!!!
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