mini-me swap
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Joined: Oct 2003
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mini-me swap
i just put a d16z6 head on my 91 crx d16a6 block. i did everything but forgot to remove my oil control control jet ,my vtec isnt working is that my only problem. somebody told me u had to run an oil line to the vtec solenoid
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Trackside with the smoking bee
Re: (nhez)
First of all...read this 
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=635580
You NEED to pull the oil jet out of the block for the VTEC to work. I didn't do it the first time, and I didn't realize that my VTEC wasnt working for a few months. The ECU didn't throw a code, everything was working fine, but there wasnt enough oil pressure in the head for the VTEC to actually engage.
Once you take the oil jet out, to get the VTEC to activate, you'll need to get an MSD RPM activated switch...then read this
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chaco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nest its to figure out how to make VTEC kick. Disregard this if u get a ZDyne 1 Wire ECu. I really recomend these. I wish i had the money for one of those. All depends on ur budget, u can use an APEXI v-afc, the Fields VTEC controler, MSD RPM Activated switch, toggle swith , anyways, theres tons of ways. Since my budget was tight i decided to go MSD switch. The MSD RPM switch part number its PN 8950 and i used the modules kit PN 8744. I have the Switch set to kick VTEC @ 4600. The first cam lobe gives power up to around 4600, after that it looses power, so i decided to have VTEC kicking in right when the lobe isnt doing any more power. Follow the MSD instructions to install the switch, except that u need to use a car relay with that since the switch provides GND and VTEC needs a 12V+ signal. U use all the cables except the gray oine of the switch. If u get the relay i am going to give the pin outs since the relays are not too explained.
Relay (5 pin or 4 pin one)
87 goes to VTEC solenoid
86 goes to the red on MSD switch
85 goes to yellow on MSD switch
30 goes to a 12V+
</TD></TR></TABLE>
More Here: http://www.geocities.com/chacofgs/swap.html
Good luck
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=635580You NEED to pull the oil jet out of the block for the VTEC to work. I didn't do it the first time, and I didn't realize that my VTEC wasnt working for a few months. The ECU didn't throw a code, everything was working fine, but there wasnt enough oil pressure in the head for the VTEC to actually engage.
Once you take the oil jet out, to get the VTEC to activate, you'll need to get an MSD RPM activated switch...then read this
|
|
V
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chaco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nest its to figure out how to make VTEC kick. Disregard this if u get a ZDyne 1 Wire ECu. I really recomend these. I wish i had the money for one of those. All depends on ur budget, u can use an APEXI v-afc, the Fields VTEC controler, MSD RPM Activated switch, toggle swith , anyways, theres tons of ways. Since my budget was tight i decided to go MSD switch. The MSD RPM switch part number its PN 8950 and i used the modules kit PN 8744. I have the Switch set to kick VTEC @ 4600. The first cam lobe gives power up to around 4600, after that it looses power, so i decided to have VTEC kicking in right when the lobe isnt doing any more power. Follow the MSD instructions to install the switch, except that u need to use a car relay with that since the switch provides GND and VTEC needs a 12V+ signal. U use all the cables except the gray oine of the switch. If u get the relay i am going to give the pin outs since the relays are not too explained.
Relay (5 pin or 4 pin one)
87 goes to VTEC solenoid
86 goes to the red on MSD switch
85 goes to yellow on MSD switch
30 goes to a 12V+
</TD></TR></TABLE>
More Here: http://www.geocities.com/chacofgs/swap.html
Good luck
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chrisir19
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Dec 19, 2003 07:19 PM