i need to get a jdm fd and a quaife installed in my itr tranny, what bearings and seals should i change while i have the chance? do i use oem diff bearings for the quaife? are ther any parts i need to reuse from the stock lsd?

the tranny does not grind between shifts unless my left foot gets alittle lazy with the clutch pedal.

however, if i am cruising in 5th gear at around 40 mph i can hear a raspy noise coming from the tranny/diff when the engine is under load but not when off throttle or in neutral, is this something i should be concerned about? can i fix it? thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i need to get a jdm fd and a quaife installed in my itr tranny, what bearings and seals should i change while i have the chance? do i use oem diff bearings for the quaife? are ther any parts i need to reuse from the stock lsd?

the tranny does not grind between shifts unless my left foot gets alittle lazy with the clutch pedal.

however, if i am cruising in 5th gear at around 40 mph i can hear a raspy noise coming from the tranny/diff when the engine is under load but not when off throttle or in neutral, is this something i should be concerned about? can i fix it? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

clutch/flywheel, have whoever is installing your stuff to take a look at your gears as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what bearings and seals should i change while i have the chance? </TD></TR></TABLE>

it depends how much money you feel like spending.

 

ok, let me rephrase this question.

what parts, if any, in the b18c5/lsd transmission should be replaced in order to keep the transmission in perfeect working order, bearings, seals?... assuming the actual gears and syncros are in good conditon.

i would like to keep down time at a minimum for this. buying the parts and returning what is not used is a better option for me than being completey unprepaired and have my tranny sitting for a few weeks while a part is on backorder. knock on wood

 

bump

 

last one

 

depends on the condition of said items above.

I'd personally put a clutch/fly on while the tranny is being cracked open.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd personally put a clutch/fly on while the tranny is being cracked open.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am

 

I don't think you should replace anything in your tranny unless it needs it.

If it was my transmission though I'd check it out while it's taken apart. Inspect the all synchronizer teeth and make sure there is no wear. That's all you really need to do unless you feel there is something else. The bearings are more than likely fine.. I wouldn't even mess with them unless you hear something odd from your transmission when you drive it. I wouldn't even measure anything on it unless you have shift problems.

 

itr tranny?

I'd say replace the 3,4,5 gearset with ATS parts while you're undertaking this project.....

g'luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">itr tranny?

I'd say replace the 3,4,5 gearset with ATS parts while you're undertaking this project.....

g'luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

very tempted, but top speed is just as important to me as acceleration, i would be doing a 4.9 otherwise. i think a set of jun3 along with a 9500 fuel cut should suit the jdm final drive

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

very tempted, but top speed is just as important to me as acceleration</TD></TR></TABLE>


i would rather have a 4.9 for top speed, especially if you have a 9500 revcut.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i would rather have a 4.9 for top speed, especially if you have a 9500 revcut. </TD></TR></TABLE>

?

a 4.9 will have a lower top speed.

do you mean the car will get there faster?

 

rodney means 4.9 vs the gearset.
and the resultant change in top speed if you can bump redline to 9500rpm.
I mean... I think he does mean that ....

and I wouldnt change anything until visually inspecting the internals of the tranny for damage.
maybe the driveshaft seals where the axles go into the tranny.

 

i c, i meant the 4.9 will have a lower top speed than the 4.7, allthough not by much

i think the ats gearset tops out at just over 115mph.

again, if i wasnt concerned about highway driving in this car i would opt for very short gearing.


Modified by euclid at 11:53 PM 10/17/2003

 

if you don't mind spending more money and time you should get your gears cryo treated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the ats gearset tops out at just over 115mph.

again, if i wasnt concerned about highway driving in this car i would opt for very short gearing.


Modified by euclid at 11:53 PM 10/17/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>


115 isn't the top speed at rev limiter unless you have maybe higher than 15.0 final drive, extremely small tires, and lower than 8k rev limiter. There are many misconceptions about gearing such as these.

Basically what I'm saying is that if you intend to make anywhere from 175-200whp and want some good gearing, then you would be better off with a 3,4,5 gearset. The ATS final is wonderful, but traction issues in 1st and 2nd make me want the gearset now for my hatch. Add the pull where you need it, imho. And yes, I daily drive my 4.9 final drive equipped itr with stock gears. Mileage loss? Nope. If you're that concerned, drive 5-10mph slower and you'll be at the same rpm you were before the install.

 

I would replace the clutch and flywheel at least and up grade on it. and it all depends on what you want your car to do. Possibly some gears or just a final drive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


115 isn't the top speed at rev limiter unless you have maybe higher than 15.0 final drive, extremely small tires, and lower than 8k rev limiter. There are many misconceptions about gearing such as these.

Basically what I'm saying is that if you intend to make anywhere from 175-200whp and want some good gearing, then you would be better off with a 3,4,5 gearset. The ATS final is wonderful, but traction issues in 1st and 2nd make me want the gearset now for my hatch. Add the pull where you need it, imho. And yes, I daily drive my 4.9 final drive equipped itr with stock gears. Mileage loss? Nope. If you're that concerned, drive 5-10mph slower and you'll be at the same rpm you were before the install. </TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=155185

this is a good thread, for me the gearset is still too low top speed wise, and i want to raise the revs in first and second too, imho 5400rpm vtec engagment does not come early enough in the speed range.

i know traction will be difficult in first and second gear, i have a civic also and i am getting fairly aggressive with the b18c-r engine build, 220whp is definatley possible and my car is lean at around 2100lbs.

the only well-rounded tranny upgrade seems to be the jdm fd; along with the quaife lsd traction shouldnt be much different from stock itr gearing/stock lsd, and a higher rev limit will offset most of the difference in top speed too, the civic should be drag limited to around 155-160mph considering the power/weight ratio. the geared top speed with jdm fd in usdm tranny with a 9200rpm fuel cut is 154mph, and 146mph at 8700rpm is more realistic.


also, a fd change keeps the power linear from gear to gear, a gearset will be more unpredictable... down shifting from 3rd to second does happen in roadracing or canyon driving; the car will feel as if it falls on its face in second gear with the ats 3/4/5. my .02

 

Find the right type of gear oil maybe?

I'm using GM basic synchromesh in my S4 tranny now they works great. And I may use the friction modified after I've installed my LSD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also, a fd change keeps the power linear from gear to gear, a gearset will be more unpredictable... down shifting from 3rd to second does happen in roadracing or canyon driving; the car will feel as if it falls on its face in second gear with the ats 3/4/5. my .02
</TD></TR></TABLE>


That thread you linked has some pretty serious misconceptions on top speed - due to the fact that he's using an assumed rev limiter which is lower than the stock itr one. Needless to say that many of us have either removed the rev limiter or moved it higher to take better advantage of the powerband...

Man, I think any final drive would be great for you. But honestly, if you're going to be making over 200whp the stock tranny will suffice for you. The higher final drive's help in the lower gears (they make more of a difference there), and the gearsets make acceleration more agressive in the respective gears they replace (3,4,5).

The car WON'T fall on it's face on a 3 to 2 downshift - quite the opposite. BUT it will accelerate harder in 3,4,5 respectively.

In any case, it sounds like a 4.7 would be a good upgrade for you. It's cheap and effective. With only ~195whp in my hatch (using the stock itr tranny) I already have traction issues in first and 2nd, and part of 3rd. THAT'S why I'm set on the 3,4,5 gearset. The 4.7 and 4.9 final drive's really make a difference in 1st and 2nd gear the most - but traction is already an issue for me, and I assume it will be for you as well. Please let us know how it works out for you. I'm interested to hear how your project turns out.

 

traction is definately a concern in vtec. i will probibly just put in the quaife and new clutch/flywheel for now, continue with the engine build up and see where i stand, what traction is like, and what the drag-limited top speed is. then get a better idea about gearing options... i just wanted to get it out of the way while i was doing other work to the tranny you know?

anyway, thanks for the suggestions and i will keep you posted. this motor in a hatch is considerably different from a dc2 chassis. i have to keep that in mind when i'm reading about mods in this forum.

 

Whoa, I didn't mean to try and talk you out of the 4.7. Just playing devil's advocate a little bit.

You should do what you initially posted in the topic: 4.7 + quaife on stock itr 1,2,3,4,5 gears.

This is DEFINITELY better than stock - heck, it's what the jdm itr's come with.

As far as traction goes - it'll depend a lot on whether you drag race or not... Even a buddy of mine with a turbo on his car is going with the same setup you mentioned. A final drive will give you better pull in EVERY gear, and I'd hate it if you didn't get a final drive now...

Good luck man, no matter what you choose!

 

i c, so you talk alot of ****, but then when i call your bluff you ***** out, j/k

i will wait on the fd, i should be able to drop the tranny and install the lsd myself so i will save the cost of the fd, and the cost to install it, which could be better used elsewhere right now... cough: tilton organic :cough

besides, in my car a jdm fd might be better with an ats gearset, possibly a longer ats first gear too. like i said ill have to wait untill i get a good feel for my car after the winter mods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will wait on the fd, i should be able to drop the tranny and install the lsd myself so i will save the cost of the fd, and the cost to install it, which could be better used elsewhere right now... cough: tilton organic :cough
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah, but if the lsd is going in diy style then the final would be easier (imho) since it's all out anyway.

Good luck with your setup!

My answer to no traction is to run something wider and stickier.....