this setup will be in a 98 ls teg....:

drag gen III turbo kit with blitz BOV and tial wastegate

rc 440cc injectors

hks manual boost controller

skunk 2 intake manifold

act XCT clutch

act aluminum flywheel

tanabe racing medallion exhaust ... no cat

walbro 255

aem fpr

safc

this is about it for now im not sure what else i should do i dont really want to get into internal work as of yet but i plan to in the future .... btw 6-8 lbs of boost is considered a pretty safe level isnt it? and 10 at the track?

 

with 6psi bout 190-200 hp and 160-165 ft lbs... mid 14s...
just a guess.

 

From what i rememeber about the Drag 3 Kits, I would say.......13.5-13.7 with an e.t of 102. If you use 10psi @ the track.

I see all

 

what psi could i run with no worries? (*highest number?*)

 

you can run 10lbs all day long with no worries IF you get it tuned for 10 lbs.

without any tuning, just about any boost would have me worried.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeremyEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can run 10lbs all day long with no worries IF you get it tuned for 10 lbs.

without any tuning, just about any boost would have me worried.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. But if you do an FMU set up And inline F.P. Keep it at 6. I believe you said your running the hack. I would not take it past 8-9 me personally. actually 8...7...6 I don't trust hacks.

 

my setup is almost like yours but with a revhard kit and my best time on 10psi was 13.7 @ 105.98 mph full interior except for spare weighing at 2642 with me in it. Also on stock 14' rims with street tires.

 

with correct tuning, i've seen stock block LS take up to 15psi. I personally am only going to max the boost at 10psi for my LS

 

dude i really dont see why you wont be able to run 8-10psi daily if the car is tuned and has a decent fuel setup which im sure you are going to have. Also i would at least expect to see the car trapping at least around 102-105 depending on your driving and the tune of the car. Your just gonna have to spend some time getting things setup right and the numbers should be pretty solid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigBADGSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude i really dont see why you wont be able to run 8-10psi daily if the car is tuned and has a decent fuel setup which im sure you are going to have. Also i would at least expect to see the car trapping at least around 102-105 depending on your driving and the tune of the car. Your just gonna have to spend some time getting things setup right and the numbers should be pretty solid.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Review the top.....safc...

 

Ditch the s-afc, skunk manifold, aluminum flywheel, and aem fpr. Take that extra money that you saved and get a hondata s100 with boost option for $400. Then it will take another $250-$400 to tune it. With a good tune you can run 12 psi safely on your motor. Just a quick question, why are you going to put on a skunk manifold? You will not see a significant gain from the manifold at such low boost levels. Also the flywheel is a waste of money in my opinion, just use you stock flywheel. As for the aem fpr, you won't need it with the hondata. My LS made 290 whp tuned with the hondata at 12 psi, and it made 230 whp at 7 psi.

 

i was told that the manifold on my car was junk and the skunk 2 is pretty common so i figured that i would get it but now that you are the 3rd person to tell me that its usless with low psi i will save my money ... also i dont have a stock clutch and flywheel so i was gonna upgrade from the jump i have an auto now and im converting one how much does a stock flywheel cost? can i pick up a new one from a honda/acura dealer fairly cheap? t.i.a

 

^^^^^^^^btw this is stock ls on a buddys s/n ^^^^^^^^^^

 

will i be able to run the hondata s200 just asking because that is a little more affordable also what will i need to run it?

 

The s200 is not cheaper. The s100 w/boost is cheaper. The s200 with boost option is around 500-600. The regular s200 with no boost is cheaper but you need the boost option. If you see yourself tuning the car in the near future then you should get the hondata s200 with boost option. If not then get the s100 w/boost. The s100 w/boost fits right inside the ecu, the s200 has a little blue box that hooks up to the ecu for you can hook up your labtop to tune the car. By the time you buy the s200 with boost, the romulator, editor, chip programmer, and wideband o2 sensor you'll be in it for over $1100. Since it sounds like your going to have someone else tune it just go with the s100 w/boost. When your tuner is done tuning the car he'll burn a chip and put it inside your ecu and your set.
As for the flywheel, I would just find a stock one for cheap. You should be able to find one for 50-$75.

Overview: Ditch s-afc, flywheel, skunk manifold, aem fpr, & get the hondata s100 w/boost.

 

honestly dude its all in personal prefrence....... After reading i think hondata would be the best way for you to go, i also dont understand why people are telling you to ditch the flywheel, it would be a great addition to the car and would help alot with putting power to the ground and rev alot faster, for example joe and brians cars!

Also as far as spending the money on the intake mani i agree with the guys on here too, i just dont see you getting the gains you would want from it and you could clearly spend the money elsewhere like helping pay for some dyno time. In the future you could upgrade to a sheetmetal intake mani and larger throttle body if you want, just keep researching and read your *** off

 

IF hes in need of the money, think thats what they meant. LIghtened fw will make the car rev faster and spool faster.

 

THANKS everyone much appriciated .. i will keep in touch anyone have anything else to add!?!?