Do I have everything necessary for 15psi?
Current setup is:
d16y7 w/greddy kit @~7psi untuned
type 31 FMIC
RC440's
hondata s100b
y8 tranny
I have been waiting around for a while to get tuned, my tuner is taking forever and I have started to gather components for my big boost build up and was thinking about throwing them in before I get tuned so that I am not wasting money to get tuned at 10psi when a couple of weeks later I would tune at 15psi. Here is what I have picked up:
Spec stage 3 clutch
Eagle Rods
CP pistons 9:1
ES motor mounts
ARP head studs
GE blockguard
3 bar map sensor
Let me know if there is anything that I am leaving out or other recommendations. Thanks,
Pfieff
d16y7 w/greddy kit @~7psi untuned
type 31 FMIC
RC440's
hondata s100b
y8 tranny
I have been waiting around for a while to get tuned, my tuner is taking forever and I have started to gather components for my big boost build up and was thinking about throwing them in before I get tuned so that I am not wasting money to get tuned at 10psi when a couple of weeks later I would tune at 15psi. Here is what I have picked up:
Spec stage 3 clutch
Eagle Rods
CP pistons 9:1
ES motor mounts
ARP head studs
GE blockguard
3 bar map sensor
Let me know if there is anything that I am leaving out or other recommendations. Thanks,
Pfieff
Yep the 15G is about at its limits around 13 psi. Turbo is good for around 240HP. I will be changing out after my engine build.
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That blockguard isn't exactly the best idea. It can create hot spots at the top of the cylinder walls and eventually crack them. I've never had personal experience with them, but do some searches on blockguards and then decide if thats what you want
Mike
Mike
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sledgehammer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That blockguard isn't exactly the best idea. It can create hot spots at the top of the cylinder walls and eventually crack them. I've never had personal experience with them, but do some searches on blockguards and then decide if thats what you want
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, i've been doing a lot of reading on them, it seems like it is all in the install. I am having a very reputable machine shop install it so I think I am going to go ahead with it
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, i've been doing a lot of reading on them, it seems like it is all in the install. I am having a very reputable machine shop install it so I think I am going to go ahead with it
Actually it can still damage by not letting enough coolant flow which has nothing to do with install and by not letting the coolant flow well enough you have hots spots which could cause detonation.
Posting the block seems to work well and doesn't reduce flow nearly as much as a block guard but it is your money and your motor..hey what do i know.
Posting the block seems to work well and doesn't reduce flow nearly as much as a block guard but it is your money and your motor..hey what do i know.
if you do blockgaurd it, make sure you install bg, weld bg only to the block, not cylinders, then bore/hone. thats the proper way to do it.
bg is the way i went, personally if i could do it all over again i would have just spend the money i spend on the bg and machinging and buy sleeves.
bg is the way i went, personally if i could do it all over again i would have just spend the money i spend on the bg and machinging and buy sleeves.
Greddy internal wg + 15psi = *BOOM*
The turbo's themselves are top notch quality, but the internal wastegates are horrible above 9-10psi. If you're SURE you wanna run it that hard, I'd strongly reccomend you getting a new manifold with an external gate or a whole new setup.
The turbo's themselves are top notch quality, but the internal wastegates are horrible above 9-10psi. If you're SURE you wanna run it that hard, I'd strongly reccomend you getting a new manifold with an external gate or a whole new setup.
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