One of my VW friends was talking **** on N/A Honda SOHCs. He claims his VW will do 150whp for cheaper than my D16A6(and be reliable). I don't know much about N/A though (I like turbos ) so I would like to see an actual setup, theoretical is okay, but dyno charts talk. He also claims his will be driveable (and idle right) IDK what to think, the specs he showed me were very promising, and he can't win.

I was trying to research on my own, but there are big gaps in the info.
-VTEC or no? A6 block (better oiling) or Z6 block?
-Probably A1 pistons, but the A6 would have ~11:1 when 12:1 is streetable, the MiniMe would have ~13:1, and the Z6 would have ~12:1 (ideal).
-Are the A1 rods tougher than the A6/Z6 rods (w/ 150whp, aftermarket/LS rods aren't needed)?
-What cam would give the most power w/o destroying the idle (again VTEC or no)?
-Bore? Keeping w/ in 1mm from stock (75mm) will make things cheaper.

-Valve springs/retainers will be required, so no real debate here.
-Fuel management could be a VAFC or ghettodyne

I don't remember exactly, but I think he was doing a 2.4L, ITB (from 'busa), Standalone (megasquirt), 8V with a mild cam, H/E, and like 10:1 compression. He said it will be almost as driveable as stock and make around 150whp. EST cost was around $1k. I am probably missing something.

-Dustin

 

my old D16z6 LONGBLOCK did 120 whp with just intake header and exhaust....
today i got a D15B1 block with Z6 head and put 112hp to the wheels....
i am installing a cam later on and will update it.... i will let u know... but afterwards a port polish, valve angle job, and half a point in compression more... and 150whp should be that hard to be close to

 

d16z6/y8 longblock, a1 pistons, stage2 or stage3 cam (vtec will almost always idle correctly), 4-1 header, CAI, light port work

should be enough

 

That's unfair
2.4? ITB's? all for under $1000
He's playing dirty, and I say JUST BRING IT!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's unfair
2.4? ITB's? all for under $1000
He's playing dirty, and I say JUST BRING IT!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, diesel crank, big bore (w/ pistons from some other VW). Apperently all this stuff is forged from the factory too. He is going to use SDS EFI now, because I hooked him up with one from my FSAE team for $250. I think he already got the ITBs off ebay for $150 and he is making the mani in metal shop. His dad works in a machine shop, so all machine work is very cheap (usually free). He is doing the port work himself. He bought the cam used for like $80. But nothing is installed to his car is very slow, for now.

-Dustin

-Dustin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d16z6/y8 longblock, a1 pistons, stage2 or stage3 cam (vtec will almost always idle correctly), 4-1 header, CAI, light port work</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like your thinking. Will stock rods work reliably, stage 3 cams will probably like to rev. I gues shotpeening might help.

-Dustin

 

According to http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm A1 pistons in a Z6 is 12.76:1, I thought it was closer to 12:1, that seems kinda high. D15B7 pistons puts it at 10.7:1, and milling the head .030 gets it to 11:1, is that a safe way to do it?

Haha, I'm starting to like this N/A thing, somebody should smack me.

-Dustin

 

ITB=Individual Throttle Bodies

-Dustin

 

150whp is a good number form a SOHC

 

I was just messing around with that compression calculator, and put a PM3 (D15B7) piston in a Z6 with the Y8 head gasket, and got 11.0:1 C/R... Would there be valve clearance problems with that setup? with the B7 HG, it would be 10.4, but would there still be valve clearance??? Any spec-buffs wanna help me out?!?!