Last minute and future items?
Ok, with my engine now near completion, I am looking for any other last minute advice.
Motor mounts: Are the stock ones ok, or what should I go with?
I already plan on getting new axles, but those will have to wait since I am almost completely out of money.
Clutch: what are the best choices? This is mostly going to be a streetable car. I dont want to get a cramp in my leg from traffic coming to work.
My setup:
Sleeved H22A
Eagle Rods
polished crank
Arias 8:1 compression pistons
Fully built, port and polished head
Stock Cams, and stock camshafts
Port matched IM and TB
550 Injectors
AEM fuel Rail
Stillen FPR
255 Lph fuel pump.
Turbo kit:
Custom Built Garret T3/T04E water/oil cooled: Stage 5 Wheel Fan (retarded high AR, dont remeber exactly)
3" pipes all around + 3" exhaust all the way back (eventually, need new exhaust, but we are going to have to see how much money I have left)
I have a P72 and Hondata Stage2B. But the hondata has not worked since I have had it. It is going to get sent away and looked at.
So what do I need? I am looking at 500 whp, but I would like to know what would be the next order of things to get.
Thoughts welcome.
Motor mounts: Are the stock ones ok, or what should I go with?
I already plan on getting new axles, but those will have to wait since I am almost completely out of money.
Clutch: what are the best choices? This is mostly going to be a streetable car. I dont want to get a cramp in my leg from traffic coming to work.
My setup:
Sleeved H22A
Eagle Rods
polished crank
Arias 8:1 compression pistons
Fully built, port and polished head
Stock Cams, and stock camshafts
Port matched IM and TB
550 Injectors
AEM fuel Rail
Stillen FPR
255 Lph fuel pump.
Turbo kit:
Custom Built Garret T3/T04E water/oil cooled: Stage 5 Wheel Fan (retarded high AR, dont remeber exactly)
3" pipes all around + 3" exhaust all the way back (eventually, need new exhaust, but we are going to have to see how much money I have left)
I have a P72 and Hondata Stage2B. But the hondata has not worked since I have had it. It is going to get sent away and looked at.
So what do I need? I am looking at 500 whp, but I would like to know what would be the next order of things to get.
Thoughts welcome.
you might not be putting off on those axels too long. just make sure you get a stage higher than you really need, just as a precaution. Nothing sucks worse than having to get up early on a saturday to drive about an hour to an hour and a half to the track with your dad, throw your brothers car on a trailer, and dragging it back home because he broke yet *another* axel lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlude92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that much hp on those little injectors? damn 720 is a bare minimum for a turbo setup like that. how much boost were you planning on running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
once in a blue moon i plan on running close to 20psi
but I am going to daily drive it at 12.
As long as it is tuned right, those injectors are perfect. 720's are a bit much since It will rarely see full boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might not be putting off on those axels too long. just make sure you get a stage higher than you really need, just as a precaution. Nothing sucks worse than having to get up early on a saturday to drive about an hour to an hour and a half to the track with your dad, throw your brothers car on a trailer, and dragging it back home because he broke yet *another* axel lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, but its not going to see a track UNTIL I get the new axles. I will go with Drive shaft shop stage 3. Also, I will suffer the 60' times and roll through the light.
Im still confused on which clutch I should get.
once in a blue moon i plan on running close to 20psi
but I am going to daily drive it at 12.
As long as it is tuned right, those injectors are perfect. 720's are a bit much since It will rarely see full boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might not be putting off on those axels too long. just make sure you get a stage higher than you really need, just as a precaution. Nothing sucks worse than having to get up early on a saturday to drive about an hour to an hour and a half to the track with your dad, throw your brothers car on a trailer, and dragging it back home because he broke yet *another* axel lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, but its not going to see a track UNTIL I get the new axles. I will go with Drive shaft shop stage 3. Also, I will suffer the 60' times and roll through the light.

Im still confused on which clutch I should get.
i wouldn't use 550's even on 12lbs. i would use 720's throw it on the dyno. see where it's at and tune from there. have one "low boost" setup which you will probably tune the amount of fuel down. and a second setup for "high boost". i wouldn't trust 550's as much with anything really over 8-10
12 PSI is not going to put me over 400 whp.
Every one I have talked to has said that 550's should hold, especially for the everyday driving that this car will see.
When I take it to the dyno with the new axles, then I will decide if I should up the injectors or not when its under full boost. No point in getting 720's when it is going to be atleast 5 months before this car sees full boost or a dyno.
Every one I have talked to has said that 550's should hold, especially for the everyday driving that this car will see.
When I take it to the dyno with the new axles, then I will decide if I should up the injectors or not when its under full boost. No point in getting 720's when it is going to be atleast 5 months before this car sees full boost or a dyno.
For motor mounts you can get energy suspension mm inserts, or I believe place racing makes new mounts for you if wanna spend some more money.
As far as clutch i'd got with a ACT, don't worry about the pedal your leg will get used to it so you'll be alright.
As far as clutch i'd got with a ACT, don't worry about the pedal your leg will get used to it so you'll be alright.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChargedLude97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For motor mounts you can get energy suspension mm inserts, or I believe place racing makes new mounts for you if wanna spend some more money.
As far as clutch i'd got with a ACT, don't worry about the pedal your leg will get used to it so you'll be alright.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, but more importantly... WHY?
Also, I plan on going with ACT but there are different types of clutches... which would be best?
As far as clutch i'd got with a ACT, don't worry about the pedal your leg will get used to it so you'll be alright.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, but more importantly... WHY?
Also, I plan on going with ACT but there are different types of clutches... which would be best?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChargedLude97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why? Because your motor is going throw itself around and back and forth with those weak stock mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ahh..
no, i mean, what is the theory behind getting different ones? I have seen different types and I just want to know what advantage there are to the different choices compared to stock.
ahh..

no, i mean, what is the theory behind getting different ones? I have seen different types and I just want to know what advantage there are to the different choices compared to stock.
There inserts...well are just that inserts, and around like 40-50 bucks for the front and rear mount. The full one's are a new mount that's fully filled (solid) with the urethane and are alot stiffer, you will feel your car alot more with solid mounts
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