I need help. I’m looking for a few suggestions on diagnosing rear drum issues (since it’s all I have left to tinker with). I’m still having the long, mushy brake pedal even after replacing the master cylinder, lines and both front calipers. I’ve installed new rear shoes and the spring kit that comes with them. I’ve bled fluid enough times that I’m confident there’s no air remaining.

What else can I look for? The car stops, but the pedal travel is almost to the floor and it seems like it’s getting worse.

PS. Should I also try the pushrod gap adjustment like the other thread?

 

did you check/replace the wheel cylinders? they sometimes leak, and it is not always immediately obvious. Goddamn I freaking hate drum brakes.

 

What about if you pull up on the E brake a couple of clicks and apply the brakes?

Feel any different?

Could be you need to adjust the rear drums.
I need to way to frequently due to all the left foot action on the Autocross course.

 

did you bench bleed the MC?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eee Pee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about if you pull up on the E brake a couple of clicks and apply the brakes?

Feel any different?

Could be you need to adjust the rear drums.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear a light dragging sound when I spin the rear tires, so I'm assuming they're ok. I'll check again tonight since I ran the car yesterday, but they were fine.

The master cylinder was not bench bled, but it's been in the car for about 6 months.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I hear a light dragging sound when I spin the rear tires, so I'm assuming they're ok. I'll check again tonight since I ran the car yesterday, but they were fine.

The master cylinder was not bench bled, but it's been in the car for about 6 months.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how many rotations does the wheel make when spinning it? i remember reading somewhere that 1 to 1.5 rotations is the maximum number of rotations you want. this is all off the top of my head so my numbers could be a bit off.

 

You should feel the drum/shoe dragging, not just hear it. Not a lot, but enough to feel it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how many rotations does the wheel make when spinning it? i remember reading somewhere that 1 to 1.5 rotations is the maximum number of rotations you want. this is all off the top of my head so my numbers could be a bit off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting... never heard that myself. i'll have to remember to check that. i remember them freely spinning though. i've *never* even opened my rear drums. maybe that's why my brakes are still fading after 15 minutes into the race (and thats after we added ducts)

 

Easy fix.......put disks on the rear yo!
See ya saturday!!

 

I would replace the wheel cylinders in both drums. I had a slow leak in one of my wheel cylinders that caused extreme pedal travel, brake fluid loss, and eventually the whole drum filled with fluid that i couldn't get it off, and it was seized, couldn't roll the tire.

Had to get it towed and the drum cover pounded off with a small sledgehammer.

 

Can you update to rear disc in ITA?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you update to rear disc in ITA?</TD></TR></TABLE>

in a word... "no"