im getting my b20 sleeved and plan on a crvtec this next season but im very tempted to try this new break-in method everyone is doing .... the rougher breakin with early oil change seems to be yielding people very nice numbers but how is the motor running long after the intial drive ... doesnt smoke or anything .. i just dont wanna mess up 4 grand worth of motor building... also i plan on breaking it in on boost ... seems to work on factory boosted cars so why not a turbo honda lol

 

Im interested in this too. Im getting my GoldenEagle motor today.

 

I use it and suggest it. How long does it really take for rings to seat?? Not long. Bearings dont need to be broken in. Just make sure your a/f is on, timing is set, no leaks under the car, and coolant system is properly bled.
Go out and bring rpms up to 3k then let off and engine brake while still in gear. Do this a couple times bringing the rpms up higher til about 6500 each time without adding boost. Then after your done that add some boost and do it all over. Then make a full rpm pull. Change oil from HD30 non-detergent (thats what I like and suggest for break-in oil) to your oil of choice. Thats it, your broken in!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use it and suggest it. How long does it really take for rings to seat?? Not long. Bearings dont need to be broken in. Just make sure your a/f is on, timing is set, no leaks under the car, and coolant system is properly bled.
Go out and bring rpms up to 3k then let off and engine brake while still in gear. Do this a couple times bringing the rpms up higher til about 6500 each time without adding boost. Then after your done that add some boost and do it all over. Then make a full rpm pull. Change oil from HD30 non-detergent (thats what I like and suggest for break-in oil) to your oil of choice. Thats it, your broken in!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've always wondered about how you get a decent tune... Do you just use a conservative map from a similar setup and change any glaring problems with a laptop in the car while you are breaking it in? Do you do dyno pulls? Any help would be appreciated, I see a sleeved block in my not too distant future

 

I beat on the motors roughly 75% of full. WOrks for me. Change the oil at 20-50miles, 150, 500, 1000

Danny

 

I let mine idle for about 15 mins. changed the oil

brought it up to ~4k and let it slow itself down a couple times

then hammered the **** out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Foozball26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I let mine idle for about 15 mins. changed the oil

brought it up to ~4k and let it slow itself down a couple times

then hammered the **** out of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so how's your motor running now??

 

fine untill it detonated, but thats a prob with the tunning

 

all of a sudden it detonated???what happened to the motor?..damn aem..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by espanol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all of a sudden it detonated???what happened to the motor?..damn aem..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong..........Tuner!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wrong..........Tuner!</TD></TR></TABLE>

so it left the shop running bad?

 

my break in...

...if you have new cams, start the motor up, hold the throttle at about 2500-3000 RPM for about 15-20 min. to break the cams in. after that take it out and do some hard third gear pulls when you hit your redline let off and let the motor slow the car down not the brakes. Continue making 3rd gear pulls and let off to seat the rings. It does not take long to break in an engine . This has proven to work the best for all of my motors

-Brian W.

 

it ran fine just around town, but I only got on it like 4 times. last time I did it was just 2nd through 4th

also, he said when he and the AEM tech were tuning it they had 290 degree intake temps...which is outrageous.

ill let ya know details later, i wanna see if either AEM or the tuner will take any responsibility for it.

 

ive done it on 3 motors. all have perfect compression.

sam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Foozball26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ill let ya know details later, i wanna see if either AEM or the tuner will take any responsibility for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think i know the answer to that one..

 

yea unfortunately I have the same feeling.

 

I've done it to two motors that i've put togeather so far. Both are running perfect, my personal car has about 6k miles on it, and runs very strong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R6Elmo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I beat on the motors roughly 75% of full. WOrks for me. Change the oil at 20-50miles, 150, 500, 1000

Danny</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just usually change the oil after letting it idle for 15-30 min, then i just ride on the same oil for like 1500 miles. My builder told me it wasnt good for the rings to keep putting new oil in the motor so frequently, he said it helps em seat better with the "used" oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by espanol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think i know the answer to that one..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah and it sucks bad!

 

I idled my motor for 15 mins, changed the oil, let it idle for another 15 mins then took it up to 6k in 2nd gear and then let the motor slow down the car (not the brakes)

I did that like 3-4 times then afterwards, Boosted 12 PSI. Can ran great and produced good numbers too

 

i did it on my motor... i have amazing compression numbers. car runs soo strong as well.

also have 3 friends who have done it as well and they outcomes are all the same

rough break in method

 

I got a full build/sleeve.

let it idle for about 30 mins, Changed oil. Put it on dyno and made a few low speed passes to set air fuels esp since the block was bored. The drove it for 400-500km's. It was set open dump, full 3", garrette t3/t4 60-1 (15psi), yaddie yaddie. I dorve it pretty smooth after all the rungs do seat within the first 10-15 mins of driving. I although when FIRST leaving the shp took it up to 4 grand, then let itr down on its own and i did that all the way till 6grand. Then i drove it normally. gave a few 75-85% throttle passes. Took it back to shop , changed on and slapped my ***** on the dyno.

HAHA, its on the dyno now as I speak but now it has a little over 3000 on the engine so I think i wanna go for higher numbers. What I got below aint enough!