Hey guys,

I'm supposed to get my block back from RS this week and will start to assemble the block within the next 2 weeks.

The only problem is how I'm going to break the car in.

1. I don't know if its a good idea to break the car in on a basemap (Hondata) or

2. to leave the car N/A and drive around for 300/400 miles and then slap the turbo on there.

Another suggestion was to install everything with the stock injectors and ECU (OBD2) and simply don't boost. I'm kinda at a catch 22 cause I don't want all my hard work and $ to wasted. I'm scared with a base map b.c if the engine isn't getting enough or too much fuel I might not have the rings seat correctly.

Any suggestions and comments welcome.

Thanks
- Fred

 

Fred,
I plan on NOT boosting my block when it goes in. This is also what Endyn recommended to me (Whom did the block for me). You can put the turbo stuff on and just take the wastegate out. You then won't boost. Obivously this is only god if you have an external wastegate.
In tuning it is also best to tune with no boost to get the part throttle maps perfect then put the wastegate spring back in to tune in boost.

HTH

 

I'm in the same boat here man. I don't have any base maps on my ems that are even close to my new setup, and quite frankly I don't want to have to worry about tuning under even a small amount of boost during the first 25 mi when the rings are seating (not to mention running rich is definately not good for seating rings). I'm debating just leaving the turbo off during break in, turning on the automapping and just going about it that way. A local race engine builder here said he likes to break an engine in under boost if it is going to be running boost, but in a case where you don't have a moderately accurate tune on the standalone, I can't see this being the better option vs. n/a break in. I'd like to hear some other peoples' input though. I'm waiting for Cody's cast manifold anyways so why not go ahead and get the break-in process started is what I'm saying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fred,
I plan on NOT boosting my block when it goes in. This is also what Endyn recommended to me (Whom did the block for me). You can put the turbo stuff on and just take the wastegate out. You then won't boost. Obivously this is only god if you have an external wastegate.
In tuning it is also best to tune with no boost to get the part throttle maps perfect then put the wastegate spring back in to tune in boost.

HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Man, yeah hopefully this post will bring all the veterans in

 

We don't boost on fresh blocks until #1 the rings seat, and #2 the car is tuned well for part throttle driving.

Imho, the stock Hondata maps are absolute crap. I uploaded a b16jrsc map to my car yesterday, and right out of the box I was seeing 10:1 on the wideband. Do they create these base maps in freaking Colorado?!?

 

My basemap was pretty good. I broke the car in on the dyno. So far so good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys,

I'm supposed to get my block back from RS this week and will start to assemble the block within the next 2 weeks.

The only problem is how I'm going to break the car in.

1. I don't know if its a good idea to break the car in on a basemap (Hondata) or

2. to leave the car N/A and drive around for 300/400 miles and then slap the turbo on there.

Another suggestion was to install everything with the stock injectors and ECU (OBD2) and simply don't boost. I'm kinda at a catch 22 cause I don't want all my hard work and $ to wasted. I'm scared with a base map b.c if the engine isn't getting enough or too much fuel I might not have the rings seat correctly.

Any suggestions and comments welcome.

Thanks
- Fred</TD></TR></TABLE>

driving on basemap is a bad idea especialy with larger injectors.. get it street tuned
as far as boost, you could remove wastegate spring (external wastegate of course) as mentioned in recent topic in this forum..

 

anymore ideas guys?

 

bump!

krazy

 

come on guys!

 

I would break it in N/A.
I am rebuilding any day now, and thats what I plan on doing.
Unless your map is perfectly street tuned, I wouldn't want to run the risk of wash cylinder walls to much.

Plus, alot less chance of detonation on break in....plus you are forced not to boost on it.
Hopefully your new clutch, will appreciate that as well.

 

it is hard for some people to run NA for a break in especially when some of us have gone over bore and stuff so we have no other choice then to run a different map to even get the engine to run

 

Listen to Earl

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

 

i am about to start my built motor. i have NO hondata tuners in the area so i am going to have to trailer this bitch down to mass or something when i get the funds.

but i am starting it on the stock ecu and stocke injectors, i have a wideband so ill keep an eye on it but i dont think im going to drive it. if i do i will take the spring out. also if you have a wideband and the air/ fuels arent wher you want with the stock ecu, then you can just turn the fuel pres. up or down accordingly.

Landon

 

just install everything and take one of the couplers off so there is no boost. when u go tuning put the coupler back on. Personally I'm breaking my motor on the dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just install everything and take one of the couplers off so there is no boost. when u go tuning put the coupler back on. Personally I'm breaking my motor on the dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do this if you want to ruin your turbo.

Landon