My ring gaps are in the range of .019" as opposed to the .013-.014 that they are supposed to be. For an engine with aspirations of 500hp, what are the consequences of having ring gaps that are a little too large?
This is my second set of rings from Wiseco so I don't know if it is going to get much better if I get another set.

Thanks
Ben

 

Won't hold as much compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Won't hold as much compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That ring gap actually sounds fine. On turbo motors, sometimes I like to gap them a little larger because boost can actually get behind the ring and push it out towards the cyclenders. On a closed deck block, you should also gap the rings larger then what they call for because of the extra heat the block generates.

 

I will be the second to confirm, .019 is a little on the large side, but the more boost you run the larger of a gap you want. I believe i run right around a .016 or .017. The wiseco rings are pretty pimp huh? I like the design much better then the hastings I have run in the past.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninesecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That ring gap actually sounds fine. On turbo motors, sometimes I like to gap them a little larger because boost can actually get behind the ring and push it out towards the cyclenders. On a closed deck block, you should also gap the rings larger then what they call for because of the extra heat the block generates.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn..that's actually good to hear, as i just installed my JE pistons/rings in my block...

but now, if i may ask, what are the advantages/disadvantages of ring gap placement? i mean, the rings will move around anyway, right?

 

Thanks for the reply's. I can sleep well now.

Re: the ring placement- I did it how they show in the Helms. The idea is to keep the gaps from being in thrust locations so there is less chance that the edges of the ring will score the sleeve. Once they are in, the rings shouldn't move much, if at all.

Ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheSwift1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but now, if i may ask, what are the advantages/disadvantages of ring gap placement? i mean, the rings will move around anyway, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ring gap placement is key - if you are looking at the dome/top of your piston with the intake valve reliefs pointing up towards 12:00, you want ring gaps at 1:30, 7:30, 4:30 and 10:30 (top two ring gaps rotated 180 degrees is essential, as well has not having the gaps exactly parallel or perpendicular to the wrist pin). Hope that makes sense (cuz messing this up is one sure-fire way to make your burn oil like a 2-cycle lol).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hpfsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ring gap placement is key - if you are looking at the dome/top of your piston with the intake valve reliefs pointing up towards 12:00, you want ring gaps at 1:30, 7:30, 4:30 and 10:30 (top two ring gaps rotated 180 degrees is essential, as well has not having the gaps exactly parallel or perpendicular to the wrist pin). Hope that makes sense (cuz messing this up is one sure-fire way to make your burn oil like a 2-cycle lol).</TD></TR></TABLE>

i followe the Helms also when i installed the rings..JE's instructions seemed to be geared toward a rear wheel drive car vs- a front mounted engine like ours..
i understand about not wanting the ring gap to be on the thrust side, wrist pin, but i always wondered just how much the rings moved when actually in the engine..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hpfsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

(top two ring gaps rotated 180 degrees is essential, as well has not having the gaps exactly parallel or perpendicular to the wrist pin).</TD></TR></TABLE>

should the two top rings really be at 180 degrees? because my Helms calls for 90 degrees...although the JE specs call for 180 degrees i believe..which one should it be? damn it, i may have to go back and disassemble the block..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheSwift1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

should the two top rings really be at 180 degrees? because my Helms calls for 90 degrees...although the JE specs call for 180 degrees i believe..which one should it be? damn it, i may have to go back and disassemble the block..</TD></TR></TABLE>

**** man, didn't mean to make you nervous 90 degrees is fine if that is what helms says - I didn't bother going out to the garage to check - but I believe most aftermarket piston manufacturers recommend 180 degrees though.

Oh and yeah, the rings shouldn't move once installed. Good luck man

 

I usually put them about 120 degrees apart and not directly on the thrust. Keeping them off the thrust and not right over each other is the important part.