gsr oil problem
ok i got my gsr used... i figure the guy changed the oil when i bought it cuz he sells cars for a living. and plus i checked the dip stick and it was fine. my oil light started blinking one day and i checked the dip stick and there was no oil on it. i changed my oil... 4 quarts of 5-30. its been about 2100 miles and my check engine light and oil light is on. i check the dipstick and theres nothing again. i havent noticed any smoke or leaks. the cars practically new... 99 gsr with 24k miles.
am i supposed to put more than 4 quarts? 4.5 maybe? should i use diff oil?
can anyone help?
am i supposed to put more than 4 quarts? 4.5 maybe? should i use diff oil?
can anyone help?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99GEEzer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i got my gsr used... i figure the guy changed the oil when i bought it cuz he sells cars for a living. and plus i checked the dip stick and it was fine. my oil light started blinking one day and i checked the dip stick and there was no oil on it. i changed my oil... 4 quarts of 5-30. its been about 2100 miles and my check engine light and oil light is on. i check the dipstick and theres nothing again. i havent noticed any smoke or leaks. the cars practically new... 99 gsr with 24k miles.
am i supposed to put more than 4 quarts? 4.5 maybe? should i use diff oil?
can anyone help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
DO u use your Vtec a lot? Vtec can really suck back the oil.
am i supposed to put more than 4 quarts? 4.5 maybe? should i use diff oil?
can anyone help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
DO u use your Vtec a lot? Vtec can really suck back the oil.
what ive noticed for me was... if i used synthetic blend.. it burns oil faster than normal... ever since i switched back to regular 5-30 or 10-30... its hasnt been burning oil.. but thats when i switched to Quaker State (thanks to team Jotech/Quaker State hahha) im guessing their advertising is working.. i sucked out out of Castrol. and im using Quaker now and its doing pretty well
and the oil has been track tested/street tested and i give it the
.. courtesy of ME
and the oil has been track tested/street tested and i give it the
.. courtesy of ME
My LS motor burned up 5w30 (mobil syn) a quart every 1000 miles, easy driving. I upped it to 10w30 non synthetic, and it went down to a quart every 1500-1800, i recently went up to 10w40, and its been 1000 miles and i've barely seen any consumption, about 1/10 of a quart to be exact.
A little off topic but check your oil level more often. The oil light on means you've lost enough oil to lose oil pressure. Defintely not something you want to happen when you have a complex valve train like on the GSR, cams are going to be starved for oil possibly scoring the lobes. Check it every time you fill up.
BTW, I lose 1 quart every ~1500miles.
BTW, I lose 1 quart every ~1500miles.
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disconnect the battery, that will clear the check engine light. If the light was from your low oil then it wont come back on. Did you have any problems when the oil was low. The vtec will shut down and it wont let the car rev past 5,000 rpms when its very low on oil. Did that happen to you?
yea i reset the ecu and the lights gone and everything seems fine thanks for the help guys. integramike, the car was able to rev past 5k but vtec never went on.
another question though... whats the stock vtec point? is it true that theres kinda like 2 on a gsr? mine kicks in at 6k is that right?
another question though... whats the stock vtec point? is it true that theres kinda like 2 on a gsr? mine kicks in at 6k is that right?
vtec x-over is 4400rpm on the GSR. I'd check the oil at least once a week to be sure, if it is using that much oil then you have a problem especially for such a low mileage car. Is the mileage verified?
Heres a little article/post I wrote a few months back...it may help clear some unanswered questions:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18Cs/[B18s] in general are known to lose some amount of oil when switching over to synthetic from dino oil. Or using synthetic oil for break-ins. In most cases, it is with Mobil1. I am not degrading Mobil1 oils in any ways, infact, I use it [currently]. Dino oils or Mineral oils leave deposits in your car that have an effect on your seals. Overtime, these deposits act as seals themselves helping your engine maintain its proper oil level. Synthetics have cleaning detergents in them so when switching over to it...it cleans out the deposits left behind by dino oil. The seals inside your engine will cure overtime, unless they are really damaged. It is also good to replace the cam seal or cam plug (I use the STR cam seal, about $30 at most aftermarket auto/Internet stores---wise investment) if you're car is old or your engine has been abused by constant racing and high revving.
Most people have solved the problem by switching back to conventional oil. I recomment Castrol Syntec Blend 10w30. I mentioned about the cam seal that is prone to cracking overtime and causing leaks. There's also the oil pan that's overlooked by most people. The oil pan gasket may be worn... I used to use dino oil then Synthetic...leaked here and there. I replaced my cam seal. Switched back to Castrol Syntec Blend. No problems there so I finally switched back to Mobil 1. Everything is fine considering how I drive with 3.5-4k shifts daily with the needle occasionally passing the 4.4 and 5.750 RPMS mark
.
.::nightrider-gsr::.</TD></TR></TABLE>
EDIT** According to numerous manuals...the recommended amount of OIL for B18Cs is 4.2 quarts with the standard norm weight of 10w30 conventional oil.
NRG
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18Cs/[B18s] in general are known to lose some amount of oil when switching over to synthetic from dino oil. Or using synthetic oil for break-ins. In most cases, it is with Mobil1. I am not degrading Mobil1 oils in any ways, infact, I use it [currently]. Dino oils or Mineral oils leave deposits in your car that have an effect on your seals. Overtime, these deposits act as seals themselves helping your engine maintain its proper oil level. Synthetics have cleaning detergents in them so when switching over to it...it cleans out the deposits left behind by dino oil. The seals inside your engine will cure overtime, unless they are really damaged. It is also good to replace the cam seal or cam plug (I use the STR cam seal, about $30 at most aftermarket auto/Internet stores---wise investment) if you're car is old or your engine has been abused by constant racing and high revving.
Most people have solved the problem by switching back to conventional oil. I recomment Castrol Syntec Blend 10w30. I mentioned about the cam seal that is prone to cracking overtime and causing leaks. There's also the oil pan that's overlooked by most people. The oil pan gasket may be worn... I used to use dino oil then Synthetic...leaked here and there. I replaced my cam seal. Switched back to Castrol Syntec Blend. No problems there so I finally switched back to Mobil 1. Everything is fine considering how I drive with 3.5-4k shifts daily with the needle occasionally passing the 4.4 and 5.750 RPMS mark
..::nightrider-gsr::.</TD></TR></TABLE>
EDIT** According to numerous manuals...the recommended amount of OIL for B18Cs is 4.2 quarts with the standard norm weight of 10w30 conventional oil.
NRG
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