b-series swap handling like a pig, any cures?
I had a b16a crx and it felt like my old 5.0, real front heavy, the handling of my stock crx si is far better. I am getting tired of the drag *** performance.
I was thinking of doing a sohc v-tec turbo, but I don't want to spend the same amount on a FI sohc just to get to the cost of a N/A b16a swap. this is going to be a daily driver so I don't want to go all crazy on a motor build.
My concern is the handling characteristics. what are you guys doing to your b-series swaps that make it handle like it still has a sohc under the hood?
battery relocated to trunk
(sticking with steel hood)
aftermarket sway bars?!
I was thinking of doing a sohc v-tec turbo, but I don't want to spend the same amount on a FI sohc just to get to the cost of a N/A b16a swap. this is going to be a daily driver so I don't want to go all crazy on a motor build.
My concern is the handling characteristics. what are you guys doing to your b-series swaps that make it handle like it still has a sohc under the hood?
battery relocated to trunk
(sticking with steel hood)
aftermarket sway bars?!
have you tried a simple alignment?
after my swap my car handled like ***, turns out my alignment was way out of wack, i suggest this first, its a 60 $ ordeal.
next springs for a diffrent car (gsr) the b16a is only 80 lbs more than the dseries, the weight isnt your cars problem.
after my swap my car handled like ***, turns out my alignment was way out of wack, i suggest this first, its a 60 $ ordeal.
next springs for a diffrent car (gsr) the b16a is only 80 lbs more than the dseries, the weight isnt your cars problem.
just got mine done and im currently having the same problem, i think with a good spring/ strut combo and a sway bar or two, problem could be solved. oh yeah.. and some good wheels and tires couldnt hurt
To dial out understeer, try stiffening up the REAR suspension. As said above, get the alignment checked and corrected (if necessary), and if that doesn't help, start looking at the rear suspension. A stiffer aftermarket swaybar back there will usually help a bunch, and stiffer rear springs aren't a bad idea, either.
Lots of folks will disconnect or remove the front swaybar, but I prefer to keep it and stiffen the rear to compliment the stock front bar. To me, removing the front swaybar is just inviting too much body roll.
Mike
Lots of folks will disconnect or remove the front swaybar, but I prefer to keep it and stiffen the rear to compliment the stock front bar. To me, removing the front swaybar is just inviting too much body roll.

Mike
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwicko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To dial out understeer, try stiffening up the REAR suspension. As said above, get the alignment checked and corrected (if necessary), and if that doesn't help, start looking at the rear suspension. A stiffer aftermarket swaybar back there will usually help a bunch, and stiffer rear springs aren't a bad idea, either.
Lots of folks will disconnect or remove the front swaybar, but I prefer to keep it and stiffen the rear to compliment the stock front bar. To me, removing the front swaybar is just inviting too much body roll.
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
I concur...
I read in an unnamed techie book, that the AMERICAN E chassis suspension is nearly 500 POUNDS too heavy in the front. If everything is in place and adjusted properly, It seems that a heavier engine would make the geometry and such more in tune, VS. being too light.
I just wonder if you have everything bolted in. My first swap felt like your description. ALl over the road at high speed. My SECOND one was a lot less thrown together. It handled BETTER, believe it or not.
Scott
Lots of folks will disconnect or remove the front swaybar, but I prefer to keep it and stiffen the rear to compliment the stock front bar. To me, removing the front swaybar is just inviting too much body roll.

Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
I concur...
I read in an unnamed techie book, that the AMERICAN E chassis suspension is nearly 500 POUNDS too heavy in the front. If everything is in place and adjusted properly, It seems that a heavier engine would make the geometry and such more in tune, VS. being too light.
I just wonder if you have everything bolted in. My first swap felt like your description. ALl over the road at high speed. My SECOND one was a lot less thrown together. It handled BETTER, believe it or not.
Scott
i bet you need an alignment,
my toe was way out of wack after my swap and my car was a death trap it sucked hardcore, and i bet thats ur problem.
my toe was way out of wack after my swap and my car was a death trap it sucked hardcore, and i bet thats ur problem.
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