the bolt only moves alittle bit back and forth, the tensioner is still loose. How can I remove this. I found a few threads where people talk about a bolt out kit from sears, but how the hell do I get in there, there already is a minimal amount of space.

Do I need to drop the motor or pull it out?
Do I need to helicoil this?

I am thinking to drill a big hole on the side wall to have direct access to the bolt?
Anyone sees any problems with this?

Thanks

 

I hate that bolt I stripped it out...then tried to bank tensioner loose with a block of wood and a hammer... ended up busting the tensioner bolt and a big chunk of aluminum out of the block...

...so... BE CAREFUL!

 

You will probably have to remove the bolt and retapp the hole, if there is enough materail you might be able to get away with the same size....but odds are you`ll have to go to a bigger size.

 

how do i get access to it?

 

If you stripped it too bac then normally you would want to try to drill it out and retap for a larger sized bolt. I don't think you can do this with that tensioner though because, as far as I remember, there isn't much play beween the stock bolt and the hole in the tensioner. I would look into getting a helicoil in there to use the same original thread size.

 

Drop the motor then helicoil it . I just had the same exact problem . Hopefully you can thread it to its original thread and use a oem honda bolt. I think the thread is 10x 1.25 x 50 or 60

 

so I have to drop the whole motor.
Can I just remove the side motor mounts and support it with a jack, or do I need to completely remove enverything to drop it?

I may go with the helicoil, that works well for aluminum?
if it is an aluminum block, I don't really know

 

It is an all aluminum block.

You have to drop the motor cause you'll need to access the hole with a drill or something if I'm not mistaken....its not as much the motor mount in the way...its the suspension and wheel wells.

 

yes the helicoil works good thats what I did. the reason you have to drop the motor is so that when you tap it , its straight. Dropping the motor on its side with a jack will cause you to do it crooked . you dont want that

 

I'm not sure how long the drill bit you need to use is, but look into a right angel tool for your drill. It might save you a lot of time.

 

to drop the motor enough what do I need to do?

take off all the motor mounts and pull out the driveshafts?
I am trying to get an idea.

I am really leaning toward driling a hole on the inside wall in front of the tensioner. Use one of those 3 or 4 inch holes drill bits. Then cover it back up with a piece of sheet metal and some bolts on either side. Seems kind of ghetto, but I don't really see why that would not work. Any ideas why it wouldn't or damage it may cause? If the hole is not too big I doubt it affects anything.

Thanks

 

Anyone know the correct size of the bolt? None of the dealer in my area have one and they do not know the size


Thanks


ActuallyI can get one depending on the Helicoil I use.

 

if its d series just buy a new block. probably will end up costing the same as all that retap stuff. and you get to upgrade your internals

 

You "can" do it with the motor at an angle. You just have to make sure that you tap it perpendicular to the face of the block or it will be crooked. It would be WAY easier to remove all 4 mounts and drop it as low as you can with a jack. You can't really get a drill in there when it's crooked.

 

a new block is cheap but the work isn't, the car has been out for a week now, because of a mini-me swap with a intake gone wrong. I don't want to spend more time on it. at least not for now, I need my daily driver back. Plus upgrading my internals meand more $$$$$. It would be nice,but not right now, although I know I will need to down the road. I think I may need to replace the piston rings lets see how long it will last.


So all I need to take off is all the motor mounts?

That may not be too hard. Although I worry on whre I can put the jack on, don't think I can use the piece of wood and lift from the oil pan, with the all that weight it would pop through.

thanks for all the replies.

 

Just an update I tapped the hole and bought a new bolt, good as new, for now.