Bond

Like the title say's, I snapped the damn belt tensioner bolt in the block. Clean break too. Me being in a rush+being a dummy=I am fucked! It's such a small bolt hole and drilling to get those easy out's in there is going to be a bitch. I am so mad right now at myself. The TB change was going really good until this. The engine never cam with the little washer and just the bolt. Well, I wasn't thinking and totally forgot to get the little washer that goes under the bolt to stop it from screwing into the block. So I am tightening it waiting to get to 33ft-lb's when "SNAP!", OH **** NOOO!!. This really sucks . Is there any other way to get the broken off bolt out? I really don't want to drill it, because I know I am going to touch the threads and really be fucked. Could I use a self tapping crew to start the hole? Then just use an easy-out tool? Has anyone ever done that? Really choked guy needing some answer's .


Well, used an e-z out and it snapped off in the hole! I guess I used to small of an e-z out. Does any one know what drill bit will drill through the hardend steel of the e-z out? Damn bolt is in there good . Now that the e-z out is broken in there too, it capped of the ****** shittiest week of my life . God damn this broken bolt. It's holding me up from finishing my build. *walks away with hands in air* I GIVE UP!!!


Modified by Bond at 5:25 PM 8/4/2005

CRXified

shitty... i would hav eto say if u DO have to drill it out u could always re-tap the hole to fix the threads... shitty when something happens like that tho...

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shitty... i would hav eto say if u DO have to drill it out u could always re-tap the hole to fix the threads... shitty when something happens like that tho...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, what a way to end the day . I am going to try and use a self tapping screw for the drilling part and just take it slow. Then I will use one of those easy-out's (which I don't have ). Everything is closed tomorrow for this stupid BC day holiday crap. The stores are closed and Honda is too . I will have to wait till tue. to get the bolt and washer and easy-out thing. Does anybody else have some suggestions one what I can do to make this easier?

Pioneer162

Don't feel bad man, I was dumb snapped of a bolt in my turbo today.....used a soft bolt that was too long by mistake, and had no warning before it snapped.....going to pull the whole assembly out tomorrow and perform some surgery, shouldn't be too bad though, it's a softy

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pioneer162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't feel bad man, I was dumb snapped of a bolt in my turbo today.....used a soft bolt that was too long by mistake, and had no warning before it snapped.....going to pull the whole assembly out tomorrow and perform some surgery, shouldn't be too bad though, it's a softy</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, this bolt was real easy to snap to and just kind of twisted off. I just hope it comes out or I'll have a heart-attack.

Pioneer162

I know what you mean, it's my DD, and I had to call in 'sick' tomorrow, plus if it's fooked, I have to buy a new turbo and swap everything back to stock.......lesson for today.....don't **** with your car on sundays. That's just asking for Murphey to show up with his book of laws.

Pioneer162

well I ended up drilling it and re-tapping it, flushed it real good and everything went cool. Turbo just isn't turbo, unless you install it yourself.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pioneer162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I ended up drilling it and re-tapping it, flushed it real good and everything went cool. Turbo just isn't turbo, unless you install it yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you try using those easy-out thing's? I am going to try them before I drill, because if I have to tap into the block....thing's might go wrong very quick. Then I couldn't use the belt tensioner bolt anymore. It's not a simple bolt so I can't just bump the size up one mm and be done with it .

SkRiBLaH

in all seriousness you need to tell what chassis you have, and what motor.

this is what you need to do:

remove the wire harness, fuel lines, axles, clutch line, header bolts.

jack the car up on jack stands


place the jack underneeth the motor and unbolt the motor mounts.

let the motor down a little so you have room to work and do it RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

you dont want to make more problems fixing an already fucked up problem.
drill out the hole about 3/4 inch deep with the correct drill bit that the easy out calls for, then bang in the easyout and remove it cleanly.


yes its going to be a day long thing but wouldnt you wnat to do it right the first time and know your not going to **** anything else up?

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in all seriousness you need to tell what chassis you have, and what motor.

this is what you need to do:

remove the wire harness, fuel lines, axles, clutch line, header bolts.

jack the car up on jack stands


place the jack underneeth the motor and unbolt the motor mounts.

let the motor down a little so you have room to work and do it RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

you dont want to make more problems fixing an already fucked up problem.
drill out the hole about 3/4 inch deep with the correct drill bit that the easy out calls for, then bang in the easyout and remove it cleanly.


yes its going to be a day long thing but wouldnt you wnat to do it right the first time and know your not going to **** anything else up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well it's not something I was planning on just "winging it". The motor is out of the engine and I am finishing up building it. I have spent many hours on this engine and have yet to take a short cut. The motor is built and I am in the process of doing all the major maintenance stuff (water pump, thermostat, TB, all new gaskets, completely re-built intake manifold, etc.). It's pretty much a brand new motor and was well worth the time. So any way's, it's a D16Z6 fully built that's being put into my Dx hatchback. The motor was a '94 with 64, 502km on it and the chassis is a '92 DX HB with 103 xxxkm on it. The bolt head was a 7mm so what size easy-out would I need? It's not going to be 7mm, because the head of the bolt is bigger then the threaded end. I guess I will just bring the bolt when I go get the easy-out.

Bond

Does anyone know what size easy-out to use for a 7mm bolt? I am guessing it's smaller .

SkRiBLaH

dono. goto sears or a good auto parts store and bring the snapped peice with you and they will inform you.

btw didnt know the motor wasnt in a car.

Pioneer162

I most certainly did, I have a reverse thread set and it didn't budge, even with a little heat on it.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pioneer162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I most certainly did, I have a reverse thread set and it didn't budge, even with a little heat on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard that getting steel or any kind of metal type bolt's are easier to get out of aluminum. Glad the blocks are made of aluminum, so it might be easier.

insomniac791

I am a supervisor in a frabrication shop and we brake screws all the times while building frames. The easiest way to get it out is to use a punch and punchthe broken screw/bolt right in the middle this helps to get the bit center. Then start to slowly drill through the middle while keeping the bit luded with some tap magic and make sure you are holding the bit straight because if you brake of that bit in there you have a much larger problem! Take your e-z out and put it in and tap on it with a hammer lightly to make sure its seated good then slowly start to turn it out. It should come out fairly easy at this point! If you do not find a e-z out let me know I have a bunch at work and I could mail you one if needed!
Hope this helps
Matt

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by insomniac791 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am a supervisor in a frabrication shop and we brake screws all the times while building frames. The easiest way to get it out is to use a punch and punchthe broken screw/bolt right in the middle this helps to get the bit center. Then start to slowly drill through the middle while keeping the bit luded with some tap magic and make sure you are holding the bit straight because if you brake of that bit in there you have a much larger problem! Take your e-z out and put it in and tap on it with a hammer lightly to make sure its seated good then slowly start to turn it out. It should come out fairly easy at this point! If you do not find a e-z out let me know I have a bunch at work and I could mail you one if needed!
Hope this helps
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the help Matt. This will come in handy when I drill tomorrow. I haven't been able to get a e-z out yet, but if I don't find one I'll give you a shout. That is very nice of you to offer mailing me one if I don't find one. I'll let you know if I find the right size e-z out or not. To very big thumbs up for a nice guy willing to go out of his way to help a person out .

insomniac791

No problem at all! Thats what im here for to try and help out! Let me know if you need one.. You can just send me a pm!

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by insomniac791 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No problem at all! Thats what im here for to try and help out! Let me know if you need one.. You can just send me a pm!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got a three peice e-z out set and am going to try them out tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. I hope it works, but I always can get the right size from you. Thanks again for all the help .

Bond

Update at top. This bolt is going to be the end of me. Worst week of my life and I am not kidding .

insomniac791

Don't give up yet! I pmed you back

Pioneer162

it's never over! Just get some titanium drill bits, drill and tap it....

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pioneer162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's never over! Just get some titanium drill bits, drill and tap it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

O.K. So titanium drill bit's cut through hardened steel. Will a center punch still be able to make a mark on the hardened steel? I don't know how I am going to get it centered again with the e-z out in there. Thanks for the help guy's .

JDM-97CX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">O.K. So titanium drill bit's cut through hardened steel. Will a center punch still be able to make a mark on the hardened steel? I don't know how I am going to get it centered again with the e-z out in there. Thanks for the help guy's .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you get the e-z out out of the bolt?

And yes a good center punch with a heavy hammer behind it should not have a problem making an indentation in hardended steel.

If worst comes to worst have it towed to the dealership. They WILL get that bolt out, I garuntee it. I have had to do things similar to that at the dealer that I work at. Situations much like this, some of them caused by stupidity, others, like this one, caused by lacking the correct tools and just plain bad luck.

notguilty411

quick question..

im about to throw a new tb tensioner on my own motor (d16y5) but i dont remember there being any kind of washer with it??

and after reading this post i dont want the same thing to happen to me.. so where is the washer supposed to be??

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notguilty411 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick question..

im about to throw a new tb tensioner on my own motor (d16y5) but i dont remember there being any kind of washer with it??

and after reading this post i dont want the same thing to happen to me.. so where is the washer supposed to be??</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no washer for the tensioner. No need for it either. The bearing spins around the body of the tension and that is where the bolt goes. Not sure why there is a washer on mine, but honda said to leave it off as it is not needed. Well back to my problem. Titanuim will work, but not as well as carbide drill bit's. I am heading down to home depot and am going to pick up a good center punch and carbide drill bits.