The ecu is blink once for a hard pause then off the once a hard pause again then off then it blinks three times. whats up? i know its the MAP sensor. but it just started doing this. i just got the swap from the shop and they wired it like this. http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/vacuum2.jpg
line B went directly into A
but according to this http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/vacuum3.jpg the B&A are supposed to be linked to a T fitting then connected to F. After i did this. the map senor set off. the reason i started messing with this is that my brakes dont have pressure because i lose in the vacuum. BTW im runnin the pr3 b16a1ecu. thanks. btw dont get your swap done at the place i did.


Modified by wyt r1ce at 3:57 PM 9/17/2003


Modified by wyt r1ce at 5:22 PM 9/17/2003

 

I see RED X's.

 

up

 

Copy and paste image addys and add a space to the end before pressing return and the images will show up.

http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/vacuum2.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/vacuum3.jpg

 

better? can anyone help?

 

looks like im missing the pressure regulator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wyt r1ce &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> btw dont get your swap done at the place i did.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, from the picture I can see at least the shop spent the time and money to use an Integra throttle cable..... . I would get rid of that AirBoostValve to clean up the engine. Youre not using it anyways. You may have to use some vice-grips on those phillips screws if they are hard to get off.

Did that shop replace the timing belt? Water pump? Clutch? or Fuel filter? Well, at least they replaced the throttle cable.....I know a lot of shops don't do this, but it is a good practice to do so.

 

they didnt do any of that ****. but i will take the abv off. help on the vacuum?

 

help

 

 

uh 2 longs and 3 shorts is a 23 Knock sensor.....Its alot ezer to fix a problem if you have the correct code

 

hey wyt r1ce, i just received your PM. From the pictures it looks like u have the P61(original B17 GSR) intake manifold. If thats the case, there should be two vacuum nipples behind the intake manifold on the driver side. My FPR vac line goes to one of those nipples, and the other nipple is hooked up to the purge solenoid valve thing (next to the MAP sensor) on the firewall. From what i can see, everything else seems to be hooked up OK. As for not enough vacuum for the brakes.....were your brakes OK before the swap? IF they were kinda iffy, then it sounds like your booster could be leaking internally, which would mean time for a new one. If the brakes worked perfectly before the swap, then i kinda dont know what to tell u. I see that the vac hose for the booster is definitely hooked up. I guess u could check the hose and that one way valve right above the booster for cracks or anything like that......just in case the shop used a different hose other than your origianl one that u had in the car before.

 

sounds like code 23 to me too. Check that knock sensor wire to see if its wired in.

 

would the knock sensor cause my car to rev from 2k down to 1k up to 2k back and fourth?

 

no the ks will not affect engine at idle... but a dirty IACV or not enough engine coolant can cause a flucuation in idle....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no the ks will not affect engine at idle... but a dirty IACV or not enough engine coolant can cause a flucuation in idle....</TD></TR></TABLE>

it did have an over heating problem the other day but i stopped it before any damage or red zone, check the levels and there straight so im guessin a fan problem. but the reving isnt happening when the cars hot. it happens when its starting up and gets a lil heat goin. also with the KS problem what would i be checking for in it that its running or workin properly other than the fact that if its there or not.( im making a mental note becuase i cant work on the car till this weekend due to this bitch *** hurricane)

 

I would check the wiring first and make sure its all good. Check for continuity between the ks plug and the ECU harness. Theres a test for the ks but would have to find it when get home. When you checked you coolant did you let the thermo open?? It can be full not running but once it gets the thermo open will take about another half gallon. Just let it idle with the rad cap off and usually take about 20 mins you can feel the lower rad hose get hot once its open. Also try to clean the IACV with some carb cleaner...

 

nice. ill look all the wiring up when i can pull it outta the garage. and as for the temp i didnt let the stat hit open but ill check on that. lets say the ks is wired correctly. what then? just replacment? i need to go pick up the helms manual for the b17, unless u know of an online version.

 

there was one I'll have to find it again tonight.....If you wanted to try grounding the ks and reset the ECU and see if it will set it again. I have a PR3 ECU in my LS-VTEC with the ks wire grounded and no codes...Oh yeah almost forgot if gonna check the coolant...make sure the rad cap is off. Dont let the thermo open then try to open it b/c it would be about 180 degrees and underpressure....will go everywhere and risk getting burned....


Modified by zCivic at 1:00 PM 9/19/2003