Type S Cams for H22
the type s cams are good because for one you do not need to upgrade the valvetrain.
it all depends on what you want to do and the gains you would like to see. if you want tremendous gains, type s cams are not for you. if the price is comparable to some good aftermarket cams, i would just bite the bullet and buy the aftermarket ones, upgrade the valvetrain, and get it tuned. however, i have always believed that "if i were you" statements were invalid - because i, and nobody else on here, are you.
it all depends on what you want to do and the gains you would like to see. if you want tremendous gains, type s cams are not for you. if the price is comparable to some good aftermarket cams, i would just bite the bullet and buy the aftermarket ones, upgrade the valvetrain, and get it tuned. however, i have always believed that "if i were you" statements were invalid - because i, and nobody else on here, are you.
the type s head isn't the same as the h22a, h22a1, h22a4 heads...the main difference is the valve seat angle.....type s cams will cause slightly acclerated wear, but won't help you much at all, actually less than any stage 1 cam .....it's not worth it really, unless they're nearly free, but i chose not to do it since it could wear things out a little quicker and not be worth it......and there are aftermarket cams that don't require valvetrain upgrades.....most stage 1 setups will recommend it, but not require it since they make power only up to around 7500rpm, which the stock valvetrain can handle easily
The gains are not worth it. The Type S engine is MAINLY high compression pistons. The cams only move the power band up a bit. Example of this is USDM preludes make peak @7000rpm, JDM Type S makes peak @7200rpm. Just dropping those cams in will maybe give you 4-5 horses. Decent, but not worth the price they are sold for. Aftermarket will give you better bang for the buck.
a shift in the powerband would make you faster....you only need to upgrade the valvetrain when the powerband is shifted above the stock redline......and obviously there is a limit to how much you can shift a small displacement motor's powerband down, but still, skunk2 stage 1 make about 8more hp over stock, so that might be worth it to some....i agree with you from a personal viewpoint, but just in case someone wasn't interested in changing the valvetrain and saw this and translated it to mean a stage 1 setup was worthless.....
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as far as the cam
i went with a regrind over the type s
as far as cam gears
i like skunk2 cause of the six bolt design.. now if JG would make one for the H22 id go there first
i went with a regrind over the type s
as far as cam gears
i like skunk2 cause of the six bolt design.. now if JG would make one for the H22 id go there first
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fizzbob7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a shift in the powerband would make you faster</TD></TR></TABLE>
please explain this one, how does moving the powerband add more power?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....you only need to upgrade the valvetrain when the powerband is shifted above the stock redline......</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. you cant use blanket statements like that
if you have a set of cams with more lift and duration than stock and even if you keep the stock redline for whatever reason, you may need to upgrade the valvetrain
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and obviously there is a limit to how much you can shift a small displacement motor's powerband down</TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you want to shift a small displacement motor's powerband down? You can make power a couple different ways NA:
1) displacement
2) breathing
# 2 means that you need to rev a small motor to ingest alot of air, keeping the revs down and adjusting cam and ignition timing accordingly to bring the peak power on lower will limit how much more peak you are going to be able to creat
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but still, skunk2 stage 1 make about 8more hp over stock, so that might be worth it to some....i agree with you from a personal viewpoint, but just in case someone wasn't interested in changing the valvetrain and saw this and translated it to mean a stage 1 setup was worthless.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
why someone would pull apart their motor for just a set of 8hp cams, i have no idea
my philosophy has always been, if you're going to get something go all out
you shouldnt even be looking at cams unless you have the parts/tuning capable of bringing out their max potential, a good header etc etc
please explain this one, how does moving the powerband add more power?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....you only need to upgrade the valvetrain when the powerband is shifted above the stock redline......</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. you cant use blanket statements like that
if you have a set of cams with more lift and duration than stock and even if you keep the stock redline for whatever reason, you may need to upgrade the valvetrain
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and obviously there is a limit to how much you can shift a small displacement motor's powerband down</TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you want to shift a small displacement motor's powerband down? You can make power a couple different ways NA:
1) displacement
2) breathing
# 2 means that you need to rev a small motor to ingest alot of air, keeping the revs down and adjusting cam and ignition timing accordingly to bring the peak power on lower will limit how much more peak you are going to be able to creat
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but still, skunk2 stage 1 make about 8more hp over stock, so that might be worth it to some....i agree with you from a personal viewpoint, but just in case someone wasn't interested in changing the valvetrain and saw this and translated it to mean a stage 1 setup was worthless.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
why someone would pull apart their motor for just a set of 8hp cams, i have no idea
my philosophy has always been, if you're going to get something go all out
you shouldnt even be looking at cams unless you have the parts/tuning capable of bringing out their max potential, a good header etc etc
if i could have my h22a's "fat" part of the powerband at 500-5000 rpm instead of 5000-7500rpm, then i'd be faster....self explanatory......why is low end torque the "holy grail" of street cars built to go fast
and since you deem it a blanket statement, i'll also explain this....if your lift/duration is such that an improved valvetrain is needed, then your gonna be making power above where the stock redline is USUALLY.....you aren't at the stock valvetrains limits in stock trim, so most of the time, stage 1 and sometimes stage2 cams are well within the limits that the stock valvetrain sets...this is just from tons of personal experience though, so take it how you want
the reason you wanna shift it down on a mild setup (what we're talking about) is because it gives favorable driveability and nice power.....of course you can go other routes, but making 10hp more at redline and losin 5hp in the low to midrange isn't exactly beneficial unless you're on a street bike or something comparable in weight....that bottom end power is what gets you going, so why wouldn't you want to strengthen that part of the powerband.....and yes, to an extent ONLY is this applicable, but that should have been understood
getting 8whp isn't a bad thing.....why do people mod 4cylinders when the same amount of money can be spent on a 350 to make it 3 times as powerful......but since getting cams that produce more power might dictate spending over $400 on valvetrain upgrades too, i can see why people might want to spend less on 8whp....add that to the 15whp that a couple other bolt-ons gave youand you're making 190whp as opposed to the stock 167whp.....more power means you're going faster....
it's basic, simple and correct
Modified by fizzbob7 at 7:02 AM 9/20/2003
and since you deem it a blanket statement, i'll also explain this....if your lift/duration is such that an improved valvetrain is needed, then your gonna be making power above where the stock redline is USUALLY.....you aren't at the stock valvetrains limits in stock trim, so most of the time, stage 1 and sometimes stage2 cams are well within the limits that the stock valvetrain sets...this is just from tons of personal experience though, so take it how you want
the reason you wanna shift it down on a mild setup (what we're talking about) is because it gives favorable driveability and nice power.....of course you can go other routes, but making 10hp more at redline and losin 5hp in the low to midrange isn't exactly beneficial unless you're on a street bike or something comparable in weight....that bottom end power is what gets you going, so why wouldn't you want to strengthen that part of the powerband.....and yes, to an extent ONLY is this applicable, but that should have been understood
getting 8whp isn't a bad thing.....why do people mod 4cylinders when the same amount of money can be spent on a 350 to make it 3 times as powerful......but since getting cams that produce more power might dictate spending over $400 on valvetrain upgrades too, i can see why people might want to spend less on 8whp....add that to the 15whp that a couple other bolt-ons gave youand you're making 190whp as opposed to the stock 167whp.....more power means you're going faster....
it's basic, simple and correct
Modified by fizzbob7 at 7:02 AM 9/20/2003
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