Did a search about welded diffs, obviously, being this is a HONDA board, all came up w/FWD applications.
Being Im 19, broke(for my personal ****), and flat out crazy, Im transforming my del sol in to a twin h22 monster once the funds become available.
For now though, Im going to concentrate on finishing my rear engine setup, and drive that probably through most of next spring/summer.
My question is, what would a welded diff be like when there is NO turning of the axles involved?
The car will be mid-engine, RWD, using an h22 engine/drivetrain, and Civic/Teg front suspension setup MODDED to bolt up to the rear of the car..
All I know is that my dads '01 GMC pickup squeals the **** out of the inner tire coming out of a corner. This isnt how I want to waste 20+ psi, Id rather be tail-out biotch!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I know is that my dads '01 GMC pickup squeals the **** out of the inner tire coming out of a corner. This isnt how I want to waste 20+ psi, Id rather be tail-out biotch!</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's is exactly how its gonna be but it wont be because you giving it too much gas,itll be because the inside tire cant turn slower because the diff is welded and it wont be easy on your axles..I think its a waste of time,just wait until you get up enuff cash to buy a proper LSD.Anyway with it being Rear Engine RWD,I dont think youll need the extra traction anyway,should hook like a **** even being peg legged.

 

have fun with the turbo Del Sol, I know I do.

Nick

 

are you experienced driving RWD
ive know a lot of FWD guys that are so used to FWD
that when they buy RWD they usually lose control and end up spinning out
of the road if they are lucky
but if your car is going to be a daily driver I suggest you wait until get an LSD
for your set up
cause welding your spider gears when you turn you will get your ocasional wheel
hop and it kind of hard to control specially in a small car..

 

well, i learned out to drive in winter with a subaru, so ya, im fairly fluent in all driving styles.
rwd is just temporary anyway till i get both engines up and running.

 

In my other hobby, off-road vehicle, we weld up the rear diff's quite a bit, or get spools.

Frankly, I prefer the welded diff/spool over a lcoking diff like a detroit locker, because they are more predictable.

Here's some things you'll see with a welded diff:

-You'll always be dragging a tire during turns, so tight turns you'll hear tire squealling
-You'll understeer more. If both rear tires have traction, they'll want to keep you in a straight line. You have to work against that to turn.
-Your tires will wear fast. Real fast. We'd get 5000 miles out of a set that would last 10,000 with a detroit locker, and 40,000 miles with an open diff.
-On ice/snow you'll fishtail a lot more, because when you do lose traction, you'll spin both, and have 0 lateral grip.

I personally wouldn't recommend it for a car. Off Road, we usually swapped in big axles, so they were strong enough to take the abuse. It will defiantely put a lot of stress on the diff, CV's, and axleshafts. I always kept spare axleshafts and u--joints in my Jeep, and learned how to fix them in the field.

If you do it, have a pro weld the diff with a TIG and the correct rods for the application. A bad weld job will weaken the differential carrier. With all the extra stress on it, any weakening is going to be a bad thing. Especially if you are using this for drag racing, which will shock-load the diff really bad. I sheered a differential right in half that way.

For road racing, I think any welded diff/spool, or dog-tooth locker will make your handling too bad.

 

You'll probably just break something because most vehicles that have welded diffs are front engine rear drive, yours is rear engine meaning all the weight will be on top of the diff which will make the tires harder to slip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by haggar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my other hobby, off-road vehicle, we weld up the rear diff's quite a bit, or get spools.

Frankly, I prefer the welded diff/spool over a lcoking diff like a detroit locker, because they are more predictable.

Here's some things you'll see with a welded diff:

-You'll always be dragging a tire during turns, so tight turns you'll hear tire squealling
-You'll understeer more. If both rear tires have traction, they'll want to keep you in a straight line. You have to work against that to turn.
-Your tires will wear fast. Real fast. We'd get 5000 miles out of a set that would last 10,000 with a detroit locker, and 40,000 miles with an open diff.
-On ice/snow you'll fishtail a lot more, because when you do lose traction, you'll spin both, and have 0 lateral grip.

I personally wouldn't recommend it for a car. Off Road, we usually swapped in big axles, so they were strong enough to take the abuse. It will defiantely put a lot of stress on the diff, CV's, and axleshafts. I always kept spare axleshafts and u--joints in my Jeep, and learned how to fix them in the field.

If you do it, have a pro weld the diff with a TIG and the correct rods for the application. A bad weld job will weaken the differential carrier. With all the extra stress on it, any weakening is going to be a bad thing. Especially if you are using this for drag racing, which will shock-load the diff really bad. I sheered a differential right in half that way.

For road racing, I think any welded diff/spool, or dog-tooth locker will make your handling too bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Id be welding myself, thats why its cheaper for me then buying someth ing Check my sig for some work that Ive done so far.
Im pretty convince that Im welding the rear diff, because I DONT WANT the wheels to slip. Pushing 700whp in the rear engine will mean VERY beefy axles anyway, so, ya they will take it.
So thanx for the help/advice everyone.

 

I think with welding it you'll invite more problems.

why not run it as is and see if you dont like unwelded?

 

I say run as is (open diff) or look into those cheap Phantom grip conversions. Its better than nothing and its cheap cheap! I say to welding it.

 

you can't wled the diff anyways. the lude dif in un-weldable. Good idea, but spend the money on a LSD. Dont put on the front suspension on the rear of the car. just get motherfocker spfings for the back. like 8k springs at least. You should also mount the motor tilted forward. Yes it will be hard getting the valve cover off and on and valve adjustments will be hard. But if you have your intake mani more closer to perpendicular to the ground you can get gravity to help draw the air into your motor. It works in F1 cars. Of course you would have oiling problems so a dry sump will be needed. good luck.

 

Um...the engines going in in the tradition fashion. How else is oil going to flow through the galleys that are DESIGNED to be pulled by gravity? Im not building an F1 car, so nuff said.
the front suspension setup is to SIMPLIFY things in the rwd conversion. Rather then fabricating every little part, controll arm here, axle there, Ill just fabricate a frame to bolt the whole thing up to. Done. Part of fabricating is not making ****. Its finding the easiest way to get the job done thats going to be the MOST EFFECTIVE for the goal in-mind.
My goals are rwd(awd now, one engine aint enough) del sol for under $5k, Awd and two engines for under $10k. Both turbocharged, 4-600whp a piece.
Id never really looked into the tranny, just wondering if people had done it. Im using USDM accord trannies if that matters(lower gearing, higher speeds).