Euro-R serious issues.... Please read.
after dealing with a hunting idle for quite some time.. i decided to rip this one appart and found out what was the problem....
well to make a long story short, Euro-R single runner manifolds are not compatbile with 92-95 OBD1 throttlebodys for the h22a. either jdm or usdm.
reason being is the casting made for the tb, isn't all deep and the gasket doesn't seal so you have a 1/8th crack where air bleeds in.
basically the casting on the Euro-r is off... the tb and the gasket does match the manifold, but when you compare them side to side, the euro-r is missing about 3/16 to seal the gasket.... i learned this today and was quite pissed.
so i took out the aluminum welder added meterial and planed it. re-assebled it and now idles at 850rpm. from a 1600 before with a hunt.
I can officially say
a 850 steady rpm is worse than a 440 dodge with a torque cam. the cams can really overhear the overlap and man it does a nasty rumbly deep shake..
nothing to be afraid off.. but in traffic it does stand out... hahahah..
crower stage 3's (built motor) high compression...
pull at a couple lights tonight and got some funny looks
hahahahaah...
anyways before matting your TB, GASKET and manifold inspect...
hope this helps!
well to make a long story short, Euro-R single runner manifolds are not compatbile with 92-95 OBD1 throttlebodys for the h22a. either jdm or usdm.
reason being is the casting made for the tb, isn't all deep and the gasket doesn't seal so you have a 1/8th crack where air bleeds in.
basically the casting on the Euro-r is off... the tb and the gasket does match the manifold, but when you compare them side to side, the euro-r is missing about 3/16 to seal the gasket.... i learned this today and was quite pissed.
so i took out the aluminum welder added meterial and planed it. re-assebled it and now idles at 850rpm. from a 1600 before with a hunt.
I can officially say
a 850 steady rpm is worse than a 440 dodge with a torque cam. the cams can really overhear the overlap and man it does a nasty rumbly deep shake..
nothing to be afraid off.. but in traffic it does stand out... hahahah..
crower stage 3's (built motor) high compression...
pull at a couple lights tonight and got some funny looks
hahahahaah...anyways before matting your TB, GASKET and manifold inspect...
hope this helps!
Why didn't you pick up an Integra Type r throttle body or even the Euro R throttle body? When i had my Euro R intake manifold installed, we noticed this issue and thus i had my stock throttle body temporarily welded and then got a hold of an Accord Type R stock throttle body.
thanks for the info. i wonder if i will have this problem if i run the ITR throttle body on the ATR manifold will have the same effect as you mentioned above? also do u think the STR 70mm will have this problem? ur kinda scaring me hahahah
btw thanks for the info
btw thanks for the info
As per the gasket, why didn't you just take some Hondabond and put it in? Many people with ported throttle bodies don't use a paper gasket at all and use pure Hondabond. That's what I did when I used my S2k TB with my ported manifold. Much easier than breaking out the welder.
why are you idling at 650? I have the same cams and I have my idle set at 1000 becuase any less and I stall everytime I put in the clutch (flywheel does not help). But by raising the idle and adding some fuel it's fine...idles like a charm
A little bit OT...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you idling at 650? I have the same cams and I have my idle set at 1000 becuase any less and I stall everytime I put in the clutch (flywheel does not help). But by raising the idle and adding some fuel it's fine...idles like a charm</TD></TR></TABLE>
How did you set your idle to 1000? I suffer from frequent stallings when the engine is semi-hot after installing light flywheel. I tried to set it higher using idle rpms screw but it didn't work. My idle is like factory set (750rpms) and doesn't want to move higher
And whole car is shaking because of ES inserts 
I have cleaned IAC, TB, fast idle, reset computer billion times and still have 750 shaking stalling rpms
How can I set my idle higher?
pentaq
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you idling at 650? I have the same cams and I have my idle set at 1000 becuase any less and I stall everytime I put in the clutch (flywheel does not help). But by raising the idle and adding some fuel it's fine...idles like a charm</TD></TR></TABLE>
How did you set your idle to 1000? I suffer from frequent stallings when the engine is semi-hot after installing light flywheel. I tried to set it higher using idle rpms screw but it didn't work. My idle is like factory set (750rpms) and doesn't want to move higher
And whole car is shaking because of ES inserts 
I have cleaned IAC, TB, fast idle, reset computer billion times and still have 750 shaking stalling rpms

How can I set my idle higher?
pentaq
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suffer from frequent stallings when the engine is semi-hot after installing light flywheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry to jump this post but does this happen to anyone else, I am seriously looking into a lighter flywheel but If its going to cause me to stall when its hot(Im in FLA) Ill spend my $ on something else.
Sorry to jump this post but does this happen to anyone else, I am seriously looking into a lighter flywheel but If its going to cause me to stall when its hot(Im in FLA) Ill spend my $ on something else.
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my car idles so low and steady my battery light may come on and off... so just goes to show how streetable these cams are 
but keeping the power to the ground is hard, any more than 1/2 throttle the car breaks loose at any speed in first, second is the same after 3/4 thottle, in both gears vtec breaks loose. 3rd gear isnt so bad its driveble (what out for the 2-3 shift... i will have a in car video soon.. after the final tuning session

but keeping the power to the ground is hard, any more than 1/2 throttle the car breaks loose at any speed in first, second is the same after 3/4 thottle, in both gears vtec breaks loose. 3rd gear isnt so bad its driveble (what out for the 2-3 shift... i will have a in car video soon.. after the final tuning session

I did use that screw... and it didn't help... I think I should open TB butterfly a bit...Just to manipulate with trottle wire...
I did it using the screw...I mean yeah at times it tries to keep it lower but it generally will stay around 950 or so..
Hondata? Psssh someday I already have a custom chip and a V-AFC it's 'ok' for now.
Hondata? Psssh someday I already have a custom chip and a V-AFC it's 'ok' for now.
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