i have 2000 ls and carsound cat i want my engine light off its been on for a year
and i think its making my car run rich.
is there anything i can do to get that sencond o2 sensor to read a better o2 account so that my engine light will go off.

can i mount the second o2 sensor out side the bottom of the car and plug the o2 sensor hole on the cat so that it reads more 02

help here.

 

reset the ecu. Just take off the negative battery cable for a bit. Make sure you have your stock (if it is stock) radio code.

 

might only go off for a few minutes and then it will come back on!!!

 

I am assuming you have have a 1430 stored(cat deteriotion code). You are thinking backwards about letting the O2 ride outboard the cat. You need to understand how a cat works first. Basically, a 3-way cat works by heating up the exhaust stream, then, through chemical reaction, "attaches" an oxygen molecule to the CO molecules(making co2), and also spitting the HC molecules up, and the free O2 molecules try to attach themselves, making H2O. This is a very simplistic description of what happens, but what I'm trying to get across is, cats "use up" all the available left over o2 after the combustion process that is being dumped out of the exhaust. That is why we have systems to add fresh air (more o2) into the exhaust, like AIR pumps(both mechanical and electrical), or reed valve systems, like on 86-89 accords. Those systems needed more o2 to fully change those HC's and CO's into harmless elements. Ok, all this being said, how we monitor CAT effeciency for OBD2, is by comparing the front o2 sensor to the rear o2 sensor. If the CAT is doing it's job, then most, if not all the O2 will be gone from the exhaust stream after it leaves the CAT(you see the problem with your idea?). If the rear O2 begins to "trend" along with the front O2, which is reading the combustion efficency of the engine at that moment, then the CAT has lost it's ability to "attach" those free O2 molecules to the HC and CO molecules. In other words, it's worn out, and ain't workin' no more. Now, back to your problem. You need a CAT, period. The ecm is seeing the rear O2 sensor bounce around like the front O2 sensor, and setting the code. It makes no difference what brand of CAT it is, they all work the same. If it has lost it's ability to heat up and make that chemical reaction take place, well, then it's over. By the way, ALL CAT convertors have a life cycle; they are dying the moment we put them into service. We also do bad things to them, like increasing timing, increasing injector duration, increasing valve lift and duration, adding turbos, superchargers, NOS, all these contribute to CAT death, period. I hope this helps

 

whats your engine code? could be a bad o2 sensor and if thats not the case you can buy a o2 simulator.