Another COMTECH header question... but for a B16!!
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From: Hypocrisy Capital of the World, New York
Planned setup for my b16a2
hondata
310 injectors
Skunk 2 stage 3's
Skunk 2 dual valve springs
Skunk 2 titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 cam gears
J's racing Carbon intake
Aebs Intake manifold
P&P head
3 angle valve job
Endyn High compression pistons
Probe/Eagle rods
Balancing the bottem end
for starters....
But i need a good exhaust system, and I was looking at the 4-2-1 TIG welded Comptech race header...... But im not sure if it right for my planned setup.
Anyone care to comment? on anything?
hondata
310 injectors
Skunk 2 stage 3's
Skunk 2 dual valve springs
Skunk 2 titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 cam gears
J's racing Carbon intake
Aebs Intake manifold
P&P head
3 angle valve job
Endyn High compression pistons
Probe/Eagle rods
Balancing the bottem end
for starters....
But i need a good exhaust system, and I was looking at the 4-2-1 TIG welded Comptech race header...... But im not sure if it right for my planned setup.
Anyone care to comment? on anything?
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Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,983
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From: Hypocrisy Capital of the World, New York
I looked at the smsp headers, but 1g on a header is to much for my pocket... I'm looking for a good all motor 4-1 header... but i know i get what i pay for... and im not going to buy a cheap *** dc header...
voodoo, any suggestions?
voodoo, any suggestions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Irishweird00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but 1g on a header is to much for my pocket</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whether $1000 is too much for a header depends on what you are getting for $1000. If, for instance, a DTR header ($1050 for stainless) really can get you 10-13HP over a JDM ITR 4-1 header (more if you are upgrading from a cast manifold), then I would say that it is well worth $1000. What else can you do for $1000 that is so easy to do and is going to get you a solid 10-13HP at the wheels untuned? And even if you DO end up doing other mods instead, you will reach a point where it becomes increasingly difficult to gain more power. If you get to this point, you might wish you had spent the extra cash for a better header.
Whether $1000 is too much for a header depends on what you are getting for $1000. If, for instance, a DTR header ($1050 for stainless) really can get you 10-13HP over a JDM ITR 4-1 header (more if you are upgrading from a cast manifold), then I would say that it is well worth $1000. What else can you do for $1000 that is so easy to do and is going to get you a solid 10-13HP at the wheels untuned? And even if you DO end up doing other mods instead, you will reach a point where it becomes increasingly difficult to gain more power. If you get to this point, you might wish you had spent the extra cash for a better header.
If you want to save a lot, just get the ITR 4-1 header.Also get skunk2 stage2 cams if you want a street car. Stage3 is not a very streetable cam.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fasthb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with dtr header its real nice and you will be happy with the power gains
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just ordered mine today! I saw the OTS 2000 and its great. Talked with Danny for awhile too. He's a kool cat!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Just ordered mine today! I saw the OTS 2000 and its great. Talked with Danny for awhile too. He's a kool cat!
i'm also going to try the comptech race header, but honestly, i'd be afraid to use it on a street driven car with a b16a unless you mounted the engine higher, since the ground clearance will be 7mm lower with the b16a than with the b18/b20, due to the shorter deck height. this is more of a problem if local roads are rough, or if your car is lowered. also, the long 4-2-1 tri-y designs pairing sequentially firing cyls (1-3, 4-2 or 1-2, 3-4) are generally made to work better with engines having lower rod:stroke ratios, partially due to their cylinder pairing, and partially due to their piping diameters and lengths. i'd call header tech or dtr, give them your specs and applications, and have enzo or danny make you a nice custom piece for a fair price. it'll prolly cost the same or less, and work better for you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm also going to try the comptech race header, but honestly, i'd be afraid to use it on a street driven car with a b16a unless you mounted the engine higher, since the ground clearance will be 7mm lower with the b16a than with the b18/b20, due to the shorter deck height. this is more of a problem if local roads are rough, or if your car is lowered. also, the long 4-2-1 tri-y designs pairing sequentially firing cyls (1-3, 4-2 or 1-2, 3-4) are generally made to work better with engines having lower rod:stroke ratios, partially due to their cylinder pairing, and partially due to their piping diameters and lengths. i'd call header tech or dtr, give them your specs and applications, and have enzo or danny make you a nice custom piece for a fair price. it'll prolly cost the same or less, and work better for you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hey,
PM me,
Bert
hey,
PM me,
Bert
Here are some pics of the race header and race exhaust installed on a 98'ITR.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=542382
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=542382
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