here is the problem when I drive slow like through my neighborhood, 1st gear or second gear if I drive between 2,000 and 2,500 and I keep it there my car feels to bog and stutter and the check engine light will come on. I could avoid it if I take off normally and shift at 3,000 or 3,500. But I just think that my car shouldn't do that. The last part that I put on my car was about two months ago and it was driving perfect until recently.

just to help you out I'll tell you what I have done:

-chikara headers
-custom 1 peice exhaust
-02 sensor (from my dx hatch)" that is the last thing I have put on it and it ran fine for the past two months"
-ecu from a 94 ls(not chipped "stock")
-aem intake
-skunk 2 manifold
-msd sci ignition
-msd distributor cap
-9.3 mm spark plug wires
-aem tru power pulleys
-str fuel rail
-b&m fuel pressure regulator
-clutchmasters stage one clutch
-air fuel ratio guage "this is spliced into the wire closest to the ecu, not the 02 sensor"
-performance radiator
My cat-converter is stock "original I think" and it was running fine when I had my
68mm str throttlebody installed, I'm sure the problem started when I put the original throttlebody back on "I sent the str in for service" and I did reset the ecu and hooked up it's vacuum line back to the intake, I thought that would solve the problem but it didn't"

Sorry this was so long, just trying to put out everything I know and any info will be appreciated.

thanks,

 

Check and see what code you're throwing.

http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/engcode.php

 

just thought I'd let you know I found the problem. it was code 7 the tps.
luckily my str throttle body came back in time so it's fixed and the throttlebody no longer sticks.

 

Adding on to thread
When i drive like an hour with my a/c on the chk engine light comes on whats goin on , nothing wrong with performance though

 

you might need to get your a/c recharged use a bent paper clip and check the code out I did it and it took all the guess work out of it.