greetings,
i have a problem with my idle.
when warm the car bounces from around 1100-2100. vacuum was checked, compression, coolant level, replaced bar sensor, checked throttle position sensor cheched valve under throttle body.
since the map sensor was changed the car does not throw codes. it runs very well except at idle.
thanks,
m.a.d.

 

Any chance of us getting some more information? ... like year and model of car and engine? Make diagnosing things like this a little easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mwkirchner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any chance of us getting some more information? ... like year and model of car and engine? Make diagnosing things like this a little easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sure, no problem. It's a blue four door with round wheels.

 

After the car has warmed up to operating temp., unplug the IACV eletrical connector. If your jumping idle stops, you need to adjust your idle set screw on the throttle body. This should take care of your jumping idle.

 

good deal. the idle completely flattened out iafter i disconnected the electrical connector to the icv.
i will read how to adjust the idle but have a question on this. at one shop in a different car the mechanic had me turn the car on put it in drive with the brake down obviously as he adjusted this.

will i need help doing this or is this a one man deal on a manual?
thank you, Hondaaccordvtec. i hope this will do the trick.

it's for a 96 f22b2 manual

 

Following is based on 90 Accord manual.

Not necessary to set idle w/ trans in gear.

Warm engine fully in Park, disconnect the ICV, and set idle w/ bleed air screw to 600 rpm +/- 50 rpm w/ all electrical load off. Reconnect ICV, clear CEL w/ BACK UP fuse removal for 10 secs.

good luck
Idle should be 700 rpm +/- 50 rpm w/ and w/o heavy electrical or AC load.

 

i tried adjusting the idle. the screw still had some sort of factory coating on it. which means neither honda nor my mechanic tried this. i screwed it all the way and idle was a couple hairs under 1k. reset computer plugged back the connector
and idle when warm it bounces from around 11k-1800rpm.

i did as my mechanic said and replaced ecu. now the engine light is on and same problem.

what's next? i would like to at least go to the track once before the snow starts to fall.
thank you,
regards,
m.a.d.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madiaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i screwed it all the way and idle was a couple hairs under 1k. reset computer plugged back the connector and idle when warm it bounces from around 11k-1800rpm.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

To properly adjust that screw ... you should turn it all the way in and then back it out 3 1/2 turns ... for starters. That will give you an approximate starting point.

 

well my car is still messed up.
i already replaced the ecu. i was going too anyway to convert to obd1.
however the other mechanic suggests changing the throttle body.

i will be buying a used one tomorrow unless one of you guys might be able to advise what to check next before i start replacing stuff left and right.
p.s. if you sent me an instant message i can't reply because i'm not allowed yet

regards.
m.a.d.

 

i would find new mechanics cause they dont have a clue at this point and are throwing parts at teh car.
i am guessing that the fast idle valve is going bad, or the Idle control valve has airbubbles or is dirty ro soemthing in side...

try bypassing the fast idel valve and see if that makes a diff...