Well, after bleeding the clutch and changing the tranny fluid my car is still having a real problem going into gear. It is nearly impossible to shift into gear, more when the car is in motion.I pumped it about 6 times and then hold it down and then he would open up the nipple, then I'd pull the clutch up and pump another 6 times and he'd bleed it. Did this about 8 times or so I think...kinda lost track!! haha

The clutch travels all the way but it only feels like there is pressure at the last 10% or so. Ive been reading the archives and how would you discern the problem either being from the slave cylinder, master cylinder, pressure plate, clutch or flywheel? Also, will the clutch/ flywheel/ pressure plate from a 5th gen h22a fit on a 94 VTEC?

Also, if there was a leak somewhere or a hole, would that necessarily mean that I would be losing fluid?

 

My guess would be the master cylinder part of the clutch, but most people who have a problem with one end up replacing both. I think they get crudded up from old fluid, try to fix by flushing it out and send the old stuff through the system and damage the internal seals. You said something about pulling the pedal up after bleeding. It should always spring back up on it's own. That is another sign of internal leaks in the hydraulics. In theory you could have both ends of the clutch hydraulics pressure tested, but the test will probably cost more than just getting both master and slave cylinders and replacing them.

 

Just something for you to try... On my Saab, you HAVE to reverse-bleed the clutch because it's so easy to trap air when bleeding it your way.

You need some kinda syringe full of brake fluid. For a couple bucks get one of those giant syringes that's used for measuring 2-stroke oil? Or maybe a pump-type oil can that's new & clean? I use the brake-bleeding can from my MityVac, but I just switch the MityVac to pressure instead of vacuum.

Fill the syringe or pump with fresh brake fluid. Stick on a hose, pump to get the air out, attach the hose to the bleed valve on the clutch slave. Take a turkey baster & empty the clutch reservoir. Open the bleed screw & pump the fluid INTO the slave, it'll come out into the reservoir.

 

ttt

 

Got a friend with a 'similar' car? Pull back the rubber boot from the throw-out fork. Watch it while he works the clutch, to see how far the slave piston is supposed to move.

Then go back & watch yours; here's what you're looking for... Usually, if the master cylinder is bad (internal leak), it'll push the throw-out fork, then in a couple seconds the throw-out fork springs back to it's old position, while the clutch pedal is held down. With air in the lines the fork won't move in the first place.

When you look inside the boot at the slave, look for leaking alongside the slave piston rod. That would mean the slave is bad. Leaking alongside the master piston rod would soak into your carpeting by the pedals. Often it soaks underneath the carpet so you don't notice unless you look for it. Both of these places for leaking would drain your reservoir.

The only place for it to leak without leaking OUT, is an internal leak in the master cylinder (like I described above). It leaks back into the reservoir while you hold the pedal down.

PS...
It's normal for the pedal NOT to spring back up while you're bleeding (on my Integra, anyway). The only thing normally pushing it back up is the pressure plate, & you've released that force when you open the bleed valve.

 

bump for jimblake, good guy, helped me try to diagnose my clutch problem.

Mine I ended up spinning a synchro and it welded itself to shaft. Bummer...