Rods for a D16 - anyone ever think of 323 GTX rods from a B6T?
I just got my Z6 pistons today, thanks John!
These rods are pencil thin. Far thinner than I remember my A6 rods being but maybe the previous owner swapped rods. I'll know when I pull it apart.
I was kinda hoping through some stroke of luck that my GTX pistons would have fit since they're from a B6T (1.6l turbo mazda motor). Pistons are a few mm too large but take a look at the rods. Forged rods too. They look pretty darn close to me.
Now if I can figure out how to get these pins out. Most of the rods I have seen are just 2 clips and they slide out but these are different... Press fit???
-Michael
These rods are pencil thin. Far thinner than I remember my A6 rods being but maybe the previous owner swapped rods. I'll know when I pull it apart.
I was kinda hoping through some stroke of luck that my GTX pistons would have fit since they're from a B6T (1.6l turbo mazda motor). Pistons are a few mm too large but take a look at the rods. Forged rods too. They look pretty darn close to me.
Now if I can figure out how to get these pins out. Most of the rods I have seen are just 2 clips and they slide out but these are different... Press fit???
-Michael
CHeck the rod journal size. The D16Z rod looks like it has a larger journal. Hard to tell just by looking at a pic. I would get a dial caliper and measure it.
The bottom end is 45.08mm on the honda part and 45.02mm on the GTX one. I measured this quickly but it appears to be the same size. The bottom of the GTX rod is definitely larger so some block notching may be necessary.
I haven't figured out how to get the honda wristpin out but I do believe the GTX rod is slightly shorter (about 100mm from the top of the journal to the bottom of the wristpin hole. So if I'm thinking about this correctly maybe I don't need the Z6 pistons to drop the CR...
Suppose the rod is 3mm shorter. That should drop my CR to 8:1. This is an D16A6 block with a Z6 head and I have A6, ZC, and Z6 pistons. I don't know what will happen with regards to top end oiling... The GTX had oil squirters and I've never heard of a honda motor having installed those...
-Michael
I haven't figured out how to get the honda wristpin out but I do believe the GTX rod is slightly shorter (about 100mm from the top of the journal to the bottom of the wristpin hole. So if I'm thinking about this correctly maybe I don't need the Z6 pistons to drop the CR...
Suppose the rod is 3mm shorter. That should drop my CR to 8:1. This is an D16A6 block with a Z6 head and I have A6, ZC, and Z6 pistons. I don't know what will happen with regards to top end oiling... The GTX had oil squirters and I've never heard of a honda motor having installed those...
-Michael
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if you use a shorter rod then you will loose all the quench area and that will cause detonation... quench is like free octane. honda wrist pins are press fit.. take it to a machine shop. all the dohc vtec motors have oil squirters... keep in mind your going to have to blueprint the berings if you do use those rods.
What do you mean blueprint the bearings? I've never heard of this... I was just going to stick some plastigage in there and make sure it's within the spec that the factory manual calls for.
If all the DOHC engines came with oil squirters then does that mean there is a D16 block with squirters in it? Or was there ever a DOHC D16? I don't have that much experience in the range of engines that were made.
If the rods are shorter then I suppose I can see if there was a taller piston or get the block milled down a little??? Or just drop the idea and try to get some LS rods.
Somehow I have the feeling that the GTX rods are a lot stronger than LS rods. I've seen B6Ts running 300bhp and stock internals.
-Michael
If all the DOHC engines came with oil squirters then does that mean there is a D16 block with squirters in it? Or was there ever a DOHC D16? I don't have that much experience in the range of engines that were made.
If the rods are shorter then I suppose I can see if there was a taller piston or get the block milled down a little??? Or just drop the idea and try to get some LS rods.
Somehow I have the feeling that the GTX rods are a lot stronger than LS rods. I've seen B6Ts running 300bhp and stock internals.
-Michael
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hackish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean blueprint the bearings? I've never heard of this... I was just going to stick some plastigage in there and make sure it's within the spec that the factory manual calls for.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats blueprinting
no d motor had the squirters... they arent really necessacary imo
you could mill down the block but be carefull cause you will run into timing belt problems
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats blueprinting
no d motor had the squirters... they arent really necessacary imo
you could mill down the block but be carefull cause you will run into timing belt problems
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crXBoy69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">didn't only R motors have oil squirters</TD></TR></TABLE>
b16's, b18c's, and h22's have them, Im sure the k series has them 2 but Ive never torn into one of them.
b16's, b18c's, and h22's have them, Im sure the k series has them 2 but Ive never torn into one of them.
Blueprinting? AFAIK that's a little more than verifying bearing clearances which I do everytime I build a motor. Adds an hour or two on the build but avoids spun bearings and other assorted problems once a fresh motor gets up to temps if the clearances are wrong.
Timing belt schiming belt... Actually never thought about that. I guess I'd almost need a larger idler if I took too much off the block. Is it possible that something like a D15 timing belt is like one tooth shorter or something?
-Michael
Timing belt schiming belt... Actually never thought about that. I guess I'd almost need a larger idler if I took too much off the block. Is it possible that something like a D15 timing belt is like one tooth shorter or something?
-Michael
These are press fit, does that mean you must have a machine shop press them out or is there a trick with heat?
-Michael
-Michael
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hackish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These are press fit, does that mean you must have a machine shop press them out or is there a trick with heat?
-Michael</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep and yep........ be carefull heating it up ... go check the thread about the itr blowing up on tape in teh roadrace forum... thats what hapens when you do it wrong
-Michael</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep and yep........ be carefull heating it up ... go check the thread about the itr blowing up on tape in teh roadrace forum... thats what hapens when you do it wrong
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