I have been suffering from some weird problems. I have interminently the 3000rpm hesitation problem but with my problem, as soon as it starts it continues to get progressivly worse until the car won't drive at all and then it dies. Then it just goes away. My ecu was sodered by an electrical engineer friend and its perfect. All cables are secure. Again this problem is intermitent.

Second problem is with warm start and operation. It takes at least 10 crank to start the car after its warm. And the car has started to die occationaly at idle after its warm. I've included my tuned rom for anyone to have a look at. (v2.5)

I'm running dsm injectors. LS Integra

My ROM <u>here </u>

 

Static timing is set to 13 degrees in the rom editor. The low cam map should look like this.

 

I'm running dsm injectors. LS Integra

its your injectors .. for the hot start problem.. i dont know about the part throttle hesitation.

if your car isnt tuned yet ... then take it in...

as for starting the car when its hot/warm ... pump the gas as you are cranking it.
it takes a lil practice but u will get it.

ps i am swapping my dsm's once i have the money.

 

Car is tuned perfectly to 12:1 a/f. Timing is good, honda "lump" is gone.

I know of quite a few people who run dsm injectors without problems.

 

If I get time tonight, I will take a look at it. A datalog would help too if you have one. Really can't tell much with just a rom.

 

Is your car an obd2 car?

If it is, your going to have to pull the "evap purge valve" on your car. This is the main cause of bad startup after the car is warm. Hondata recommends to do this with all obd2 cars using obd1 ecu's with hondata.

If your car starts up fine after a cold start, and won't start up to well after a warm start, then that most likely is your problem.

 

the start prob is definitely the dsms, mine do it too.

 

I was taking a look at your rom file and you have some fuel tables that are crossing on your high speed fuel table. It starts at ~5k rpm and stays throughout the whole rpm range afterwards.(2d chart)

As far as I know, fuel tables should not cross, this usually causes hesitation and what not.

 

Car is OBD1. (94)

My roomate and my friend have the exact same warm start issues. Ones using RC 440's and the other is using RC 550's.

 

post a screenshot of hte rom file's fuel table for those of us who dont use hondata

 

low fuel



If you need the actual table for the low fuel map, its up top(2nd post). As you can see, he's leaning out quite a bit at around 3k and up(massive dip).


If you feel like messing with your maps a little more with a wideband 02, take this into consideration. Every 10% you increase/decrease fuel on the map is ~1 a/f point on your 02 meter.

"edit for non-vtec"

Modified by LiLOtaku at 2:09 PM 8/26/2003


Modified by LiLOtaku at 2:13 PM 8/26/2003

 

Low Fuel





Injector Duty Cycle

 

For anybody looking at my maps, you only use the low fuel and spark maps for non vtec.

 

You could always try adding a little more fuel to where that large dip is and then interpolate it a bit to see if that helps a bit.

Thats a pretty large lean dip.

 

Car is tuned perfectly to 12:1 a/f at wot, these weird hesitation problems are in closed loop

 

Some DSM injectors cause problems with starting and idling. When this happens replacing them with RC 440 injectors fixes these problems. Do this first.

As for your fuel maps, all the lines should be parallel and evenly spaced (like the bottom 10 lines) - not as you have displayed.


Modified by Hondata at 8:23 PM 8/26/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondata &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for your fuel maps, all the lines should be parallel and evenly spaced (like the bottom 10 lines) - not as you have displayed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I dont understand your logic behind that statement. We tuned the car on a mustang dyno to 12.5:1 at wot before boost. The lines are where they need to be in order to have that a/f ratio. Much apreciated if you could elaborate a bit for me. Thanks.

 

oops, double post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LiLOtaku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">low fuel



</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I were you, I would go back and tune again.

 

could somebody please explain

 

Alright, let me try to help out with the details of the fuel map here. I helped legendboy tune his car on the dyno.

First off, ignore all the boost plots below ~2800rpm. The car has a big turbo, and doesn't start to build boost until the 3000rpm mark, even in high gears. So those plots are irrelevant.

The "dip" in the fuel curve you see at ~3500rpm to ~4300rpm is there because the turbo is (I'm guessing) out of it's efficiency range, therefore the air is not as dense as the boost level suggests. If we "flatten" it out by richening it, we'll get a nice rich spot in that rpm range, and get a nice dip in power. The car is tuned to 12:1 A/F ratio that's as flat as utah. A/F goes from 13:1 off boost, to 12:1 at around 4psi, and maintains 12:1 at all boost levels. Remember, this is a fuel curve, under boost, it's NOT a direct relationship with the A/F ratio, because of compressor efficiency differences at different compressor speeds (unlike a NA curve, the bottom 10, which are linear because VE doesn't change much over a large rpm range).

So, the question is, is there any settings we can use to "trick" hondata into changing the warm up fuel curve?

 

ttt

 

that is a ton of fuel. what injectors do you have?

also are you having hesitation problems at partial throttle? if so there is a 3 or 4 page thread on that.

sam

 

Hondata,

Hi, I bought a car with a PR3 and a Hondata Stage 2B, t3/t4 turbo on a B18c1 using RC 440 cc injectors.

I am having some problems with hot start-up and with idling once the car is warm. The car dies at stoplights and is very hard to restart sometimes.

I have not changed the set-up of the car, except for taking care of some exhaust leaks. I also had an igniter go bad in my distributer, which I replaced with a factory new GS-R igniter.

My question is: Could the injectors be out of spec? Like sticking at idle and letting too much fuel drip in and flood the motor, causing the car to die?

I am asking because the car did not used to do this. The nearest Hondata tuner is 550 miles away.

I would appreciate any help or suggestions. The car runs flawlessly at partial and wide open throttle.

Thank you.