well, after much stuborness and determination i had to give up my attempts of brake work. Even after T put my fears somewhat to rest. It is just to damn hot here in SC to sit outside(even in a garage and work on brakes or anything else for that matter). Im still pretty sure there is something wrong but not positive. I am going to give up and take her to a local shop here that i trust and know well. I am just going to have whatever needs to be fixed on the brakes fixed and be done with it so i dont hae to worry bout finding money during school to have it fixed then. At least now i can work and have the money available. Also in need of a radiator but that a whole different story. Besides, its been way to pretty to spend the last few days of summer at home before school starts back, i gotta get to the beach some.

 

well, the caliper removal came off with out too much effort orther then some stuck bolts but the piston was not moving. And to make matters worse it think it may have damaged the rotor. Reason for my assumption is that the rotor seems to turn free only partially around, then comes into contract or friction and will no longer turn without added force. Dont really know what ot make of it but i know that i seem to find more problems as i look harder for a simple solution.

 

ok, this rotor. This would explain for the ocasional unexplained viberation throughout the car. ...right??

--next set of questions. How did this occur? I DO NOT abuse my car. I am very gentle on the braking system in general. How can this occur? Some thories i have are: poor previous brake job...10 months ago at around 98K. (i never had a lick trouble out of any brakes before this brake service done). I have never had brake work done at all since takeing ownership of the car at 70K miles. Ever since then the troubles have been none stop. Could the said work be a cause for the current problems i am experencing??

 

Vibration throughout the car while braking is an almost definite (not absolute) sign of rotor warpage. The brake assembly is forced to follow the rotors not linear path and causes the entire suspension assembly to shake as it is pressed over imperfections and grooves. I'd check them out. I would ask Teken and co. for more info, though.

 

The previous user might not have been so good to the brakes. Do you have maintenance records? A bad brake job would have shown up before you had the chance to put 10k miles on the car. Also, if the caliper bolts or retaining bolts were stuck, you have run them (or they have been run) much harder than you know. I sheared off 2 bolt heads taking mine apart at 70k. That was just with one winter up north-3 years before. You live on the coast? It is not hard to imagine the same thing happening.
Remember: Dragging your brakes to stop is a lot harder on them then a short, brutal stab.

 

ok as far as records are concerned i have all of them and the car as absolutly babied for 70K miles. The owner was in his 50's and commuted. Still dont understand his choice for a commuter but i guess being the LS and the 5sp it was a good gas millage alternative to a civic or whatever.

So, am i to understand correctly that everything i have heard about braking.....slow gentle appliciation of the brakes before stopping is better the sudden hard braking.....this is all a misnomer???? Little help here on this one.

 

well, after returning from the beach,(not working on car today) i felt the viberation the whole way home after sitting at a stop light it started doing it. I got home and checked for excessive heat....man you could cook a steak on those things. The one piston bore as mentioned earlier is hard to advance. Havnt looked at the other yet but as soon as i get a day off it goes to the shop.

 

i think i will replace the calibers if they are bad and from what i have learned from posts previous that my rotors may be warped so what do you think...rotors as well???