When I did my swap I was unable to get the bitch pin out of my old linkage. So when I installed the new engine and tranny I used a different linkage. Instead of using a pin I used an M8 bolt with a nut and some thread locker on it. It got the job done and for a while seemed at least as good as the pin would be. Than I read a thread on here about how the pin is better because it always presses outward and holds the linkage and eliminates any play in it. So I decided to order a new pin, clip, and boot, and install them. Well, I did. I put generous amounts of anti-seize all over the pin and clip and then pulled the boot over them. For the test drive the second I shifted it into 1st for the first time I could feel the difference. With the pin its more precise, there is no play, and it goes into gear much smoother and easier. I'd bet you'll be able to shift faster with the pin than with just a bolt because of the improved smoothness.

So basically I made this thread so that anyone who wanted to use a bolt instead of the pin, its not really worth it, just use the pin. Make sure you use lots of anti-seize on the pin, and always make sure your boot is in good condition because once it breaks it allows water in and that is what rusts the pin in place.

Also I noticed the new pin I got was like an anthracite color. I wonder if Honda now makes pins out of some material that is less prone to rust.

Another thing is I used that M8 bolt to smack the pin into place. So I bet an M8 bolt would work really good for getting them out also.

 

I had the SAME setup, but trust me... The bitch pin makes a world of difference, you wouldn't believe.

 

That pin has been the worst part of both of my swaps. I just grind off the flex piece and bolt in it's place. Much easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1990hondaHF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That pin has been the worst part of both of my swaps. I just grind off the flex piece and bolt in it's place. Much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah they don't make it easy.

 

WHat makes it so hard for everyone? Ive done atleast 10 times now, car on jackstands, me laying underneath, with about 6 inches to swing a hammer. Get the right sized punch and a ball-peen hammer, i could probably do it in 30 seconds if it was on a lift.

 

air chisel is my weapon of choice for removal of said pin. i also agree that the pin makes a big difference compared to the bolt setup.

 

I got sick of hammering, so i cut my shift linkage off..........

lol

 

fyi: one of the bolts that is used to hold your ac compressor (assuming you have one) to the bracket works WONDERS here. its just the right size to go thro and its got a point to it so it works like a punch. just put the **** in a vise and pound your frustration into results.

 

I use two sockets (one to press on the pin, the other as a spacer for it to fall in on the other side) and a C-clamp that works off my impact wrench

Takes less than 10 seconds to put in, and pull out.

Bitch pin makes a wicked difference, over the amount of play just a bolt creates.

my 2 cents.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mentat Ghola &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHat makes it so hard for everyone? Ive done atleast 10 times now, car on jackstands, me laying underneath, with about 6 inches to swing a hammer. Get the right sized punch and a ball-peen hammer, i could probably do it in 30 seconds if it was on a lift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i think everyone can do it in 30 secs IF IT WAS ON A LIFT..but most of the time..people do swaps on jack stands..thats what makes it hard...and you didnt mention how fast you can do it on jackstands..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g_civic_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> IF IT WAS ON A LIFT.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah, we can dream.....

 

yes inded that thing is a pain in the ***!! i spend almost a whole day with the proper tools(8mm punch) trying to get the thing out and finally gave up.
then i found out that with a little creativity,manuvering,and an an extra set of hands that you can pull the whole motor with the linkage still connected
what the PN# for the boot?

 

It might just be me but I think the car seems to drive better. I think that bolt (which was a tad loose) might have been vibrating or something and making the car sound like it wanted to fall apart.

 

By the way I had my DX tranny with the linkage still attached to it sitting out in my backyard. When I did my swap I could never get the pin out. Well today I took PB Blaster sprayed it all over the pin, used my MAPP torch to heat it up. I took the M8 bolt and a hammer, bang bang bang. Didn't really take that long for it to come out. Once you break the rust free it pretty much comes right out.

 

exhasut bolts work good in place of the punch. what is nice about exhaust bolts is they have a big head that makes it easier to hit with a sledge hammer or ball peen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g_civic_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i think everyone can do it in 30 secs IF IT WAS ON A LIFT..but most of the time..people do swaps on jack stands..thats what makes it hard...and you didnt mention how fast you can do it on jackstands.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Took me about 2 or 3 minutes on jackstands with a hammer and a punch. I wish I could get my jackstands up higher, that would be nice

 

I second the pin vs bolt, that the pin is much much better ( I bought a car that had the bolt).

STOCK IS better! hmm.. don't you think the Honda engineers would have used a bolt if it was the same. they don't make things harder without reason. In the end the bitch pin costs them more then that bolt does..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohappy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Took me about 2 or 3 minutes on jackstands with a hammer and a punch. I wish I could get my jackstands up higher, that would be nice </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I really don't know what the big deal is about this pin. It comes right out if you use the proper punch, even when that boot around the pin is ripped.

 

86-89ish accords had a bolt-together shift linkage

 

Amen ive argued that the pin is alot better than a bolt in just about every thread on this subject.

 

was taking out my motor today..and the bitch pin wasnt so bitchy today! knocked it out in 3 hits.

 

There is a tried and tested way to do this: air hammer with a 5/16" roll pin punch. Your snap-on dealer can get it for you. It does not come in 8mm, but the 5/16" is plenty snug. It has a squre face like a reg pin punch, but in the middle it has a little tip to keep it centered in the pin. This thing is magic, I've been using one for almost 15years, never broke it, and NEVER had a pin that wouldn't come out. You can also use it with a reg. hammer if you chose, but I'm way to lazy for that, and besides, I'm flat-rate tech, time is money. Anyway, see your snap on catalog, go to the air hammer accessories/tips, and you'll see the roll pin punches listed.