ls/vtec question?
b18a1 block,crank and rods
b16a pistons(pr3)
ported b16a head(pr3)
obd pr3 ecu (spoon program)
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and now the question what cams should be used?
are jdm gsr cams good for this setup?
can b16a valve springs be used with gsr cams?
b16a pistons(pr3)
ported b16a head(pr3)
obd pr3 ecu (spoon program)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
and now the question what cams should be used?
are jdm gsr cams good for this setup?
can b16a valve springs be used with gsr cams?
I'd use CTR cams (upgrade springs to ITR)...but to answer your question, gsr cams would be better than your stock but not that much. And yes, the stock b16 valvesprings is good enough.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GapxGuy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would use Type R cams b/c it's an LSvtec and shouldn't be reved that high.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it shouldn't be revved that high because he made no mention of upgrading the rods or rod bolts to ARP parts. stock rods and high revving are not something i would mix in an ls/vtec. but "it shouldn't be reved that high"
...
if you're too scared to rev out an ls/vtec then you shouldn't even bother building one.
i've got an ls/vtec as a daily driver (60+ miles everyday) that i have built and safe-guarded against destruction as best i can. i don't drive it around worried about when its going to blow but i don't beat the hell out of it daily either. i maintain the engine as best as i can and thats good enough for me.
build it, rev it, love it... or stay home and worry about when death will claim you.
it shouldn't be revved that high because he made no mention of upgrading the rods or rod bolts to ARP parts. stock rods and high revving are not something i would mix in an ls/vtec. but "it shouldn't be reved that high"
...if you're too scared to rev out an ls/vtec then you shouldn't even bother building one.
i've got an ls/vtec as a daily driver (60+ miles everyday) that i have built and safe-guarded against destruction as best i can. i don't drive it around worried about when its going to blow but i don't beat the hell out of it daily either. i maintain the engine as best as i can and thats good enough for me.
build it, rev it, love it... or stay home and worry about when death will claim you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeper4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it shouldn't be revved that high because he made no mention of upgrading the rods or rod bolts to ARP parts. stock rods and high revving are not something i would mix in an ls/vtec. but "it shouldn't be reved that high"
...
if you're too scared to rev out an ls/vtec then you shouldn't even bother building one.
i've got an ls/vtec as a daily driver (60+ miles everyday) that i have built and safe-guarded against destruction as best i can. i don't drive it around worried about when its going to blow but i don't beat the hell out of it daily either. i maintain the engine as best as i can and thats good enough for me.
build it, rev it, love it... or stay home and worry about when death will claim you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I'm assuming you sleeved your LS block? I have a B20vtec and I can feel the vibration around 7,500 RPM. I suggested Type R cams b/c it doesn't have a high redline and makes good mid power. ARP head bolts and aftermarket rods doesn't cut it. But if you think it does, rev on.
it shouldn't be revved that high because he made no mention of upgrading the rods or rod bolts to ARP parts. stock rods and high revving are not something i would mix in an ls/vtec. but "it shouldn't be reved that high"
...if you're too scared to rev out an ls/vtec then you shouldn't even bother building one.
i've got an ls/vtec as a daily driver (60+ miles everyday) that i have built and safe-guarded against destruction as best i can. i don't drive it around worried about when its going to blow but i don't beat the hell out of it daily either. i maintain the engine as best as i can and thats good enough for me.
build it, rev it, love it... or stay home and worry about when death will claim you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I'm assuming you sleeved your LS block? I have a B20vtec and I can feel the vibration around 7,500 RPM. I suggested Type R cams b/c it doesn't have a high redline and makes good mid power. ARP head bolts and aftermarket rods doesn't cut it. But if you think it does, rev on.
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Yeah I've heard the LS rod bolts are junk and the lack of oil squirters at the base of the cylinders make the pistons heat up more at high rpm. A good set of forged pistons will remedy this problem though. Then throw in some ARP rod bolts and you should be good to go. Might as well sleave it at that point too.
honestly i dont see how LS/VTEC would be better than a GSR... the GSR revs to its full rpm potential, the block was built for VTEC, it has MORE torque than an LS, and higher compression... LS/VTEC seems like a fad for people who cant afford a true 1.8L DOHC VTEC..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly i dont see how LS/VTEC would be better than a GSR... the GSR revs to its full rpm potential, the block was built for VTEC, it has MORE torque than an LS, and higher compression... LS/VTEC seems like a fad for people who cant afford a true 1.8L DOHC VTEC..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes GSR is more expensive...but how much revving are we talking here? I'm planning on doing an LS/VTEC conversion within the next year and I like to rev...but I'm used to my SOHC stock motor...7500 is no problem there...I would think the occasional trip to the track or strip shouldn't be a problem...although I may be wrong...
Yes GSR is more expensive...but how much revving are we talking here? I'm planning on doing an LS/VTEC conversion within the next year and I like to rev...but I'm used to my SOHC stock motor...7500 is no problem there...I would think the occasional trip to the track or strip shouldn't be a problem...although I may be wrong...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSUCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes GSR is more expensive...but how much revving are we talking here? I'm planning on doing an LS/VTEC conversion within the next year and I like to rev...but I'm used to my SOHC stock motor...7500 is no problem there...I would think the occasional trip to the track or strip shouldn't be a problem...although I may be wrong...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its the cranks on the LS and the B20s that can't handle the revs to 8k all the time, get a knife-edged crank and you're good to go.
Yes GSR is more expensive...but how much revving are we talking here? I'm planning on doing an LS/VTEC conversion within the next year and I like to rev...but I'm used to my SOHC stock motor...7500 is no problem there...I would think the occasional trip to the track or strip shouldn't be a problem...although I may be wrong...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its the cranks on the LS and the B20s that can't handle the revs to 8k all the time, get a knife-edged crank and you're good to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly i dont see how LS/VTEC would be better than a GSR... the GSR revs to its full rpm potential, the block was built for VTEC, it has MORE torque than an LS, and higher compression... LS/VTEC seems like a fad for people who cant afford a true 1.8L DOHC VTEC..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alright, I'm gonna try not to flame you. An LSvtec is a fad?? I don't think so. I've seen LSvtec with ITR cams at 11:1 CR make more power than the B18C5. When you're doing an LSvtec motor, you're basically tear down the whole block, therefore compression isn't a problem.
Alright, I'm gonna try not to flame you. An LSvtec is a fad?? I don't think so. I've seen LSvtec with ITR cams at 11:1 CR make more power than the B18C5. When you're doing an LSvtec motor, you're basically tear down the whole block, therefore compression isn't a problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Brown Kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats the c/r of a ls/vtec with b16pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Around 11.5
Around 11.5
id suggest doing some research.
a couple tidbits of info regarding the above posts.
concerning the oil squirters, the lack of these arent reallt a big deal, the ls rods are designed to push oil up the rod to the piston bottom, there are "reliefs" for lack of a better word (im still a bit asleep) at the bottom of the rod, the centrifigual force of the crank pushes oil up these reliefs to the piston bottom.
also, sleeving the block is not going to allow for higher revs.
if you want to rev an lsvtec consistantly to higher rpms, micropolish/balancer the crank, have your bottom end balanced.
make sure the oil pump is upgraded as well or youll get oil starvation reving it.
also, if anybody has any experience with a block girdle, im not sold on one yet (I have no personal experience with one) but the idea is sound, endyn sells one for $200, id say its worth the investment just to try, cant hurt.
good luck
a couple tidbits of info regarding the above posts.
concerning the oil squirters, the lack of these arent reallt a big deal, the ls rods are designed to push oil up the rod to the piston bottom, there are "reliefs" for lack of a better word (im still a bit asleep) at the bottom of the rod, the centrifigual force of the crank pushes oil up these reliefs to the piston bottom.
also, sleeving the block is not going to allow for higher revs.
if you want to rev an lsvtec consistantly to higher rpms, micropolish/balancer the crank, have your bottom end balanced.
make sure the oil pump is upgraded as well or youll get oil starvation reving it.
also, if anybody has any experience with a block girdle, im not sold on one yet (I have no personal experience with one) but the idea is sound, endyn sells one for $200, id say its worth the investment just to try, cant hurt.
good luck
Don't forget the LSVTEC has a very poor rod/stroke ratio, 1.54 which puts more stress on the connecting rods.
If I wanted more displacement out of my B16 i would bore the block to 86 mm, sleeve it, then put a B17 crank in it and have more displacement than an LSVTEC.
And I wouldn't have to worry about upgrading oil squirters, oil pump, head studs and the poor rod/stroke ratio
If I wanted more displacement out of my B16 i would bore the block to 86 mm, sleeve it, then put a B17 crank in it and have more displacement than an LSVTEC.
And I wouldn't have to worry about upgrading oil squirters, oil pump, head studs and the poor rod/stroke ratio
no matter what way you do it LS Vtec's are for *****'s who can't afford real vtec! Your no better than a Poser with cut springs, rims from walmart, and coffee can exhaust!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Russ1414B16a1seeya »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no matter what way you do it LS Vtec's are for *****'s who can't afford real vtec! Your no better than a Poser with cut springs, rims from walmart, and coffee can exhaust!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of comment is that?? Didnt know there was a fake VTEC and a real VTEC. LS/VTEC is for people on a budget (sorry we're not all rich) and more power over a stock B16. What set up do u have? Better have something better if your clownin...
</TD></TR></TABLE>What kind of comment is that?? Didnt know there was a fake VTEC and a real VTEC. LS/VTEC is for people on a budget (sorry we're not all rich) and more power over a stock B16. What set up do u have? Better have something better if your clownin...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Russ1414B16a1seeya »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no matter what way you do it LS Vtec's are for *****'s who can't afford real vtec! Your no better than a Poser with cut springs, rims from walmart, and coffee can exhaust!
</TD></TR></TABLE> thats a worthless statement how u backing that up on 18 posts? (not that i have many)
</TD></TR></TABLE> thats a worthless statement how u backing that up on 18 posts? (not that i have many)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM2ndGen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=sleeper4dr]
if you're too scared to rev out an ls/vtec then you shouldn't even bother building one.
QUOTE]</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats wrong with what i said? i'm not suggesting that 'built' LS/VTECs are 10K rpm machines. i'm simply saying that if you are going to build an engine dont be scared of it! if you're going to build ANY engine and then be scared about it blowing up every time you drive it, then you're into the wrong hobby.
build your engine properly and have confidence in it. sure an LS/VTEC will last longer if you dont rag on it every time out. ...so will every other engine.
if you're too scared to rev out an ls/vtec then you shouldn't even bother building one.
QUOTE]</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats wrong with what i said? i'm not suggesting that 'built' LS/VTECs are 10K rpm machines. i'm simply saying that if you are going to build an engine dont be scared of it! if you're going to build ANY engine and then be scared about it blowing up every time you drive it, then you're into the wrong hobby.
build your engine properly and have confidence in it. sure an LS/VTEC will last longer if you dont rag on it every time out. ...so will every other engine.
As a person who built an LS/VTEC (switched to a built GSR w/ B16 head when I had the $$$) and did a heck of a lot of research on it I think I can help. I started with the B16a1 cams which are very weak... I went to GSR cams later which worked very nicely with the setup (they're longer duration so they work better with a low R/S ratio) but didn't get a chance to put my car on the dyno (electrical problems)
They have a bunch of CR calculators on the web...
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm
This one is especially nice if using mostly OEM Honda parts:
http://www.bojangs.com/calculator
And I would strongly reccommend either shot-peening your rods or buying forged rods...I think on the specials page here there are Eagles for $310. An LS/VTEC at the local shop threw a stock rod through the cylinder wall...
I'd also reccommend upgrading to a GSR or ITR oil pump especially if you're using cast pistons which don't dissipate heat as well.
And in reply to one of the statements above...a knife-edged crank is weaker than a stock crank and creates more vibrations...making it basically a race-only part.
Hope my experiences are of use to you.
-Joe
They have a bunch of CR calculators on the web...
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm
This one is especially nice if using mostly OEM Honda parts:
http://www.bojangs.com/calculator
And I would strongly reccommend either shot-peening your rods or buying forged rods...I think on the specials page here there are Eagles for $310. An LS/VTEC at the local shop threw a stock rod through the cylinder wall...
I'd also reccommend upgrading to a GSR or ITR oil pump especially if you're using cast pistons which don't dissipate heat as well.
And in reply to one of the statements above...a knife-edged crank is weaker than a stock crank and creates more vibrations...making it basically a race-only part.
Hope my experiences are of use to you.
-Joe
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