Ok, so this is OT in this forum, but knowledgeable ones... give me a moment of your time.

I recently posted this in the Tech forum:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I've done valve adjustments on my B18C5 and on one other B18C. No problems whatsoever.

I attempted to do a valve adjustment on my 87 CRX Si's D15A3 (1.5L SOHC 12V) - now it sounds like a diesel truck motor.

The valve clearance specs are - Intake (0.007"-0.009") Exhaust (0.009"-0.011")

I tried twice - First, I set the valve clearance to the tight side of spec (0.007 and 0.009). Bad ticking and VERY loud. Second try, I set the clearances to the loose end of spec (.009 and 0.011) Louder, tickier, more obnoxious.

The car drives fine, the difference has been negligable each time (before, after the 1st try, and after the 2nd try), except for the sound. Something is obviously wrong... but I've checked the clearances many times: before torqueing, after torqueing, I even rotated the engine once more to check all the valves again.

I probably should have left well enough alone, but when I got the car, no one knew how long it had been since the last valve adjustment.

I'm going to try again, I don't think it is possible for me to be any more exacting or thorough. Any other advice/tips are welcome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to go home and try again today. I have never had an issue with a DOHC valve adjustment, and I'm not sure what to do at this point.

Any advice besides "Adjust again, jackass" is welcome. Why? Because I'm going to adjust them again tonight.

What I am looking for is ANYTHING else that could have happened during the course of a valve adjustment on this here D15A3 that might cause the diesel truck motor-like sounds (extreme increase in volume, tapping/ticking....) I have created.

Thanks in advance, sorry for the relatively OT post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently posted this in the Tech forum:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

For some reason i don't normally see too many posts in the Tech Forum that are that Technical or get much of an answer, with any Engine question in the future you'd probably get a better response in the "All Motor" forum

As for the ticking, Got me. Since it got louder the looser the tolerances were, maybe try a tighter one

 

probably a dumb question, but did you try the middle of the spec?
another dumb question - double check the spec - are you using a Haynes Manual? If not, get one, and never leave home without it
Just asking cause valve specs can vary wildley between year/make/model

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For some reason i don't normally see too many posts in the Tech Forum that are that Technical or get much of an answer, with any Engine question in the future you'd probably get a better response in the "All Motor" forum

As for the ticking, Got me. Since it got louder the looser the tolerances were, maybe try a tighter one </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, Mike, I was thinking the same thing about the Tech forum. I just didn't want to say it...

And if I posted in the EG/CRX forum... they'd all say, "they made a CRX before 1988????"

I pushrod V8 friend at work said the looser the tolerances get, the louder it gets. I thought the same thing... but had to ask. I'm guessing somehow they were too loose, or maybe my interpretation of 'slight drag' was way off..

Philly - I double and triple checked, and read the info right out of a haynes this weekend. I sent a message to a fellow H-T'er who can confirm it for me, we'll see what he says.

Thanks guys.

 

Hmm.. Doensn't Ed/Zyg have a CRX? Maybe he can help you.
Chris, if the ticking continues just order a swap..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00MRSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm.. Doensn't Ed/Zyg have a CRX? Maybe he can help you.
Chris, if the ticking continues just order a swap.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, if there wasn't so much rust, I would. There is rust on the side frame rails, to the point where you can't jack on the driver's side front jacking point (the one directly under the side mirror). The rest isn't too bad... but what if I put a swap in, stomped on it, and the axles/engine/etc flew out of the car??

 

Okay thins may sound like a stupid idea but a friend of mine does his adjustment like this. Personally I haven't mastered the technique but his adjustments always sound perfect.

He takes the feeler and places it between the lobe and rocker and leaves it there. Tightens to the point where he can't remove it and backs it off a bit. Tightens it down and removes the feeler.

My problem is that my damn Feeler always gets stuck and maybe I twist the screw a bit while tightening but I always have trouble getting the thing out.

See if you can have better luck with that meathod than I have

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoond TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay thins may sound like a stupid idea but a friend of mine does his adjustment like this. Personally I haven't mastered the technique but his adjustments always sound perfect.

He takes the feeler and places it between the lobe and rocker and leaves it there. Tightens to the point where he can't remove it and backs it off a bit. Tightens it down and removes the feeler.

My problem is that my damn Feeler always gets stuck and maybe I twist the screw a bit while tightening but I always have trouble getting the thing out.

See if you can have better luck with that meathod than I have</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a bad idea but just for more info on it. Would you be using the tolerance at the middle of the spectrum when doing this I assume.

I have the same issue going on a d motor as well. First did them to tight felt some resitance backed them off and did middle of the road but I know my version of slight drag was nothing like the above trick! And mine tap like a mother. Going to fix it this weekend when the car can sit for the night.

I'll let you know what I find out myself.

 

first the valves must be COLD! heat expands!!! put the motor to tdc and then begin with cylinder 1 / 3 / 4 / 2. and after adjusting the first cylinder turn the crank pully counterclockwise. the cam gear should have marks on them. the feeler should have a slight drag. not too tight not too loose.! hope that helps.!

 

LOL yeah if you dont' do it cold it's dangerous!!! I know all this used the helms each time. I tried the do it tell it hardly barely comes out and I used the middle tollerence for Intake and Exhaust. Guess what the tick is gone. I discovered I backed them way to off, and to ensure I torqued the nuts back to actual specs. This helped I think as well because the first two times I was gentle for fear of stripping them.

So mine got fixed using the crazy method above and it took a lot of guess work and made them much more consistant. Good luck on your D motor yourself.

There is hope, for us b series guys messing with d series.

 

Hmm...weird, according to the helms, the engine must be "cold to the touch"...

Maybe we can look at it this weekend and do some suspension work on my car at the same time.

 

When I state dangerous I didn't mean from being burned. Unless I'm confused now, which is very likely. I just let it sit with the valve cover off and a large floor fan on high over it for two hours after my hour commute home from work.

I don't know about you but I don't like waking up to doing a valve job before work or waiting for the weekend.

 

Have you checked the timing belt tension? A loose timing belt can contribute to a very loud valvetrain.

 

I didn't check the timing belt tention, but I will tonight.