compression and leakdown test results..... regarding warranty.....
I'm in the midst of a turbo buildup - but haven't installed any of the goodies on my car yet. I've gotten caught up in my hatchback project, and so my itr has taken a back seat till that's finished. But what I've noticed is that I've been blowing smoke in vtec from my tailpipe recently, so I decided to get a compression test and leakdown test.
Car info:
'01 itr #0021
~46k on the odo. I purchased it at 34k miles in april of this year.
A new b18c5 was installed under warranty by acura less than 15k miles ago..... (previous owner was less than mindful of the vehicle).
Results of the compression test:
cyl#1: 150-155
cyl#2: 175
cyl#3: 175
cyl#4: 170
Results of the leakdown test:
cyl#1: 10-12%
cyl#2: 2-5%
cyl#3: 2-5%
cyl#4: 2-5%
It appears that cylinder #1 is leaking through the rings.....
The car is under warranty until 50k miles..... but I'm hesitant to take it in.
Ok, now here's the dilemna:
I have some very lumpy toda cams I can install should I decide to go the allmotor route with this car... if the pistons have to come out to do the rings, then I might as well get ctr pistons and raise the compression..... Comp 4 here I come?
Or, should Acura decide to warranty the motor and get me another longblock... it'd be a shame to boost on a brand new motor...
Or, maybe should I just put lower compression pistons (forged of course - maybe rods too) in since I'm preparing for boost anyway... but I have concerns about oil slipping by the rings with forged pistons since they have different expansion characteristics than stockers.....
hrmness.....
-the r0cker, who is just musing... I hope it's amusing.....
Car info:
'01 itr #0021
~46k on the odo. I purchased it at 34k miles in april of this year.
A new b18c5 was installed under warranty by acura less than 15k miles ago..... (previous owner was less than mindful of the vehicle).
Results of the compression test:
cyl#1: 150-155
cyl#2: 175
cyl#3: 175
cyl#4: 170
Results of the leakdown test:
cyl#1: 10-12%
cyl#2: 2-5%
cyl#3: 2-5%
cyl#4: 2-5%
It appears that cylinder #1 is leaking through the rings.....
The car is under warranty until 50k miles..... but I'm hesitant to take it in.

Ok, now here's the dilemna:
I have some very lumpy toda cams I can install should I decide to go the allmotor route with this car... if the pistons have to come out to do the rings, then I might as well get ctr pistons and raise the compression..... Comp 4 here I come?
Or, should Acura decide to warranty the motor and get me another longblock... it'd be a shame to boost on a brand new motor...
Or, maybe should I just put lower compression pistons (forged of course - maybe rods too) in since I'm preparing for boost anyway... but I have concerns about oil slipping by the rings with forged pistons since they have different expansion characteristics than stockers.....
hrmness.....
-the r0cker, who is just musing... I hope it's amusing.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it'd be a shame to boost on a brand new motor...
...</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it wouldn`t.
...</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it wouldn`t.
wow those are low numbers for compression, When it comes to the B18C5 I love the all motor power it provides. I would try to get a hold of those ctr pistons and with the toda cams you will be making some good power without sacrificing much reliability.
Having a fresh engine to start with would be a good choice even if you do plan to change out the piston rings. I'm sure you know that machine work ain't cheap. With the engine in condition it's in now you would have to do a complete tear-down as opposed to doing a quick hone if the engine was in good condition.
I would make sure that you have a leak passed the rings before you make decisions. To do a leakdown properly you should at least have the exhaust manifold off and possibly intake manifold too. You wont be able to hear a 5% leak passed the valves by listening at the tail pipe. A 2% and a 5% leak is big difference. A 2% leak is still considered a new engine. An engine wih a 5% leak is soon ready for rebuild. So which is it?
It sounds like you should try to do another leakdown. If you do need a rebuild, I suggest that you get your warranty work. After all, you are entitled to it.
I would make sure that you have a leak passed the rings before you make decisions. To do a leakdown properly you should at least have the exhaust manifold off and possibly intake manifold too. You wont be able to hear a 5% leak passed the valves by listening at the tail pipe. A 2% and a 5% leak is big difference. A 2% leak is still considered a new engine. An engine wih a 5% leak is soon ready for rebuild. So which is it?
It sounds like you should try to do another leakdown. If you do need a rebuild, I suggest that you get your warranty work. After all, you are entitled to it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeR0059 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once again, i still hold the the low compression record.
mine is 180 130 120 120 as tested by honda.
anyone want to put rings in my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my b16 with under 40k... 170-110-80-50
you really shouldn't spray under 2k rpms
mine is 180 130 120 120 as tested by honda.
anyone want to put rings in my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my b16 with under 40k... 170-110-80-50
you really shouldn't spray under 2k rpms
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my b16 with under 40k... 170-110-80-50
you really shouldn't spray under 2k rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice!! Dry shot, eh?
my b16 with under 40k... 170-110-80-50
you really shouldn't spray under 2k rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice!! Dry shot, eh?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mac8008 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Having a fresh engine to start with would be a good choice even if you do plan to change out the piston rings. I'm sure you know that machine work ain't cheap. With the engine in condition it's in now you would have to do a complete tear-down as opposed to doing a quick hone if the engine was in good condition.
I would make sure that you have a leak passed the rings before you make decisions. To do a leakdown properly you should at least have the exhaust manifold off and possibly intake manifold too. You wont be able to hear a 5% leak passed the valves by listening at the tail pipe. A 2% and a 5% leak is big difference. A 2% leak is still considered a new engine. An engine wih a 5% leak is soon ready for rebuild. So which is it?
It sounds like you should try to do another leakdown. If you do need a rebuild, I suggest that you get your warranty work. After all, you are entitled to it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
....I could hear the leak if I took the oil cap off and put my ear to the oil fill hole.
Int and exh weren't the case.
I would make sure that you have a leak passed the rings before you make decisions. To do a leakdown properly you should at least have the exhaust manifold off and possibly intake manifold too. You wont be able to hear a 5% leak passed the valves by listening at the tail pipe. A 2% and a 5% leak is big difference. A 2% leak is still considered a new engine. An engine wih a 5% leak is soon ready for rebuild. So which is it?
It sounds like you should try to do another leakdown. If you do need a rebuild, I suggest that you get your warranty work. After all, you are entitled to it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
....I could hear the leak if I took the oil cap off and put my ear to the oil fill hole.
Int and exh weren't the case.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my b16 with under 40k... 170-110-80-50
you really shouldn't spray under 2k rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA, me too. My b16 had 175-170-160-40. Spraying at idle and taking off in 2nd gear, LOL. Thats what I did, I was impressed when I burned rubber taking off on 2nd gear, until it died on me. Ken you know boost owns you, lol. I would say boost, but you know why I would say that.
my b16 with under 40k... 170-110-80-50
you really shouldn't spray under 2k rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA, me too. My b16 had 175-170-160-40. Spraying at idle and taking off in 2nd gear, LOL. Thats what I did, I was impressed when I burned rubber taking off on 2nd gear, until it died on me. Ken you know boost owns you, lol. I would say boost, but you know why I would say that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it'd be a shame to boost on a brand new motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, it would be a dumb idea to start with a good base....jesus christ, use your head.
nick, who is off to register http://www.ihateidiots.com
it'd be a shame to boost on a brand new motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, it would be a dumb idea to start with a good base....jesus christ, use your head.
nick, who is off to register http://www.ihateidiots.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Tran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah, it would be a dumb idea to start with a good base....jesus christ, use your head.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....like what, a b16?
My idea of a good base is 2L and sleeved.
yeah, it would be a dumb idea to start with a good base....jesus christ, use your head.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....like what, a b16?

My idea of a good base is 2L and sleeved.
imo i think you should take it to acura, let them give you whatever they are required to under warantee and put the ctr pistons with todas in no matter what, you may even get parts and labor for free.
my friend has a 91 supra turbo that runs high 12's and he lost to a turbo itr boosting at susposedly 18lbs, the problem was the type-r nearly took him out b/c when he punched it the tourqe steer sent him into the other lane. i obviously dont know your intenions but usually big #'s and fwd are not a good combination unless you are on slicks.
my.02
my friend has a 91 supra turbo that runs high 12's and he lost to a turbo itr boosting at susposedly 18lbs, the problem was the type-r nearly took him out b/c when he punched it the tourqe steer sent him into the other lane. i obviously dont know your intenions but usually big #'s and fwd are not a good combination unless you are on slicks.
my.02
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